Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'tutorial'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • ++ GUESTS, ADVERTISERS, AND LOGGED OUT MEMBERS ++
    • + REGISTERING AN ACCOUNT +
  • ++ COMMUNITY ++
    • + NEWS, RUMORS, AND BOARD ANNOUNCEMENTS +
    • + AMICUS AEDES +
    • + EVENTS +
    • + INTRODUCE YOURSELF +
    • Blogs
    • Clubs
  • ++ FORGE ++
    • + GENERAL PCA QUESTIONS +
    • + WORKS IN PROGRESS +
    • + HALL OF HONOUR +
    • + TUTORIALS AND HOW TO'S +
  • ++ IMPERIUM ++
    • + ADEPTA SORORITAS +
    • + ADEPTUS ASTARTES +
    • + ADEPTUS MECHANICUS +
    • + ASTRA MILITARUM +
    • + IMPERIAL KNIGHTS +
    • + TALONS OF THE EMPEROR +
    • + THE IMPERIUM OF MANKIND +
  • ++ CHAOS ++
    • + CHAOS DAEMONS +
    • + CHAOS KNIGHTS +
    • + HERETIC ASTARTES +
    • + REALM OF CHAOS +
  • ++ XENOS ++
    • + AELDARI +
    • + DRUKHARI +
    • + GENESTEALER CULTS +
    • + LEAGUES OF VOTANN +
    • + NECRONS +
    • + ORKS +
    • + T'AU EMPIRE +
    • + TYRANIDS +
  • ++ STRATEGIUM ++
    • + OFFICIAL RULES +
    • + TACTICA +
    • + LIBER VICTORUM +
  • ++ THE HORUS HERESY ++
    • + AGE OF DARKNESS +
    • + LEGIONS IMPERIALIS +
    • + ADEPTUS TITANICUS +
    • + WARHAMMER: THE HORUS HERESY +
  • ++ IN THE GRIM DARKNESS OF THE FAR FUTURE ++
    • + OTHER GAMES +
    • + THE BLACK LIBRARY +
  • ++ FAN-MADE ++
    • + THE LIBER +
    • + HOMEGROWN RULES +
    • + SPECIAL PROJECTS +
    • + FAN FICTION +
  • ++ ORDO ADMINISTRATUM ++
    • + FORUM RULES +
    • + BOLTER AND CHAINSWORD 101 +
    • + BUG REPORTS +
    • + THE SUGGESTION BOX +
  • Brotherhood of the Lost's Discussions
  • The Chronicles of Saint Katherine's Aegis's Rules Development
  • The Chronicles of Saint Katherine's Aegis's Saint Katherine's Aegis Campaign
  • North America's Discussions
  • South America's Discussions
  • Europe's Discussions
  • Asia's Discussions
  • Africa's Discussions
  • Australia's Discussions
  • 40K Action Figure Afficionados!'s Custom Figures
  • 40K Action Figure Afficionados!'s Fun Photos/Poses
  • + The Battles for Armageddon +'s Which War is Which?
  • + The Battles for Armageddon +'s Useful links
  • + The Battles for Armageddon +'s Discussions
  • +Some Things Are Best Left Forgotten+'s Topics
  • The Cabal of Dead Ink's Submissions Box
  • Oldhammer 40k's Oldhammer Discussions
  • Indomitus's Discussion

Categories

  • Painting & Modeling
    • Decals
  • Game Systems
    • Warhammer 40,000
    • Adeptus Titanicus: The Horus Heresy
    • Aeronautica Imperialis
    • Age of Darkness - Horus Heresy
    • Battlefleet Gothic
    • Epic
    • Gorkamorka
    • Inquisimunda/Inq28
    • Inquisitor
    • Kill Team
    • Necromunda
    • Shadow War: Armageddon
    • Space Hulk
    • Warhammer 40,000 Roleplaying Games
    • Other Games
  • Background (Lore)
    • Tools
  • Other Downloads
    • Army List Templates
    • Desktop Backgrounds
  • Legio Imprint
  • Oldhammer 40k's Oldhammer Files
  • Indomitus's Files

Calendars

  • Community Calendar
  • Warhammer Mt Gravatt Championship Store, Brisbane's Championship Store Events
  • North America's Calendar
  • South America's Calendar
  • Europe's Calendar
  • Asia's Calendar
  • Africa's Calendar
  • Australia's Calendar

Blogs

  • Noserenda's meandering path to dubious glory
  • Evil Eye's Butterfly Brain Induced Hobby Nonsense
  • The Aksha'i Cruentes - A World Eaters Crusade Blog
  • Waffling on - a Hobby blog about everything
  • + Necessary Ablation: apologist's blog +
  • I am the Very Model of a Modern Major Hobbyist
  • Liber Bellum
  • +Cooling the Rage+ Majkhel's blog
  • Drakhearts - Hobby blog and general musings
  • CFH test blog.
  • The Motive Force Was Inside You All Along
  • Spazmolytic's Trip into the Void
  • Wandering the Void
  • Skirmish Mats Product and Company News
  • Khornestar's Amateur Blood Blog
  • Its the Horus Apostasy, not Horus Heresy....
  • GreenScorpion Workbench
  • Flitter Flutter Goes the Hobby Mojo
  • The Yncarne's Hand
  • Conversions and Scratch Building Madness
  • Ordo Scientia
  • Doobles' slow grind to inbox zero
  • Death Angel
  • WAR's Blog
  • Xenith's Hobby Hangout
  • Brother Nathans...everythings...
  • Killersquid's Chaos Knights
  • 40K Feast & Famine
  • The Black & Red: An Accounting of the Malexis Sector and the Nihil Crusade
  • Plz motivate me blog
  • Wraithwing's Primaris Space Wolves - The Blackmanes
  • Brother Casman's Meanderings
  • Antarius’ Aisle of Fame
  • My 40kreativity blog ( mostly art )
  • The Archives of Antios
  • Straight Outta the Warp - A Brazen Claws Blog
  • Lord Sondar
  • The Strifes of the Matteus Subsector
  • Some Little Plastic Homies
  • immortel
  • General hobby blog
  • Moonreaper's Lore Introspections and Ideas
  • Snakes of Ithaka Hobby Blog
  • McDougall Designs News blog
  • Grotz Hobby Hole Commissions
  • Stealth_Hobo's Hobby Blog (Imperial Fists and Other Stuff)
  • Wall A & B1 up to damp course
  • ZeroWolf's Hobby Madness
  • Saucermen Studios - 3D Printable Terrain
  • TTCombat Paints and Ultramarines
  • Bouargh´s miniatures´ closet clean-up
  • Faith and Teef, a toaae blog
  • Here There Be Monsters
  • Cult of the Octanic Blade - tinpact's Drukhari
  • Sons of the Dawn
  • Maybe this will help
  • Ashen Sentinels - an Ultima Founding Space Marine Chapter
  • Sanguine Paladins Hobby Blog
  • Silver Consuls-Rise to Glory
  • Gaston's Salamander Cult: A GSC Blog
  • A hobby journey for the Horus heresy
  • selnik's hobby blog
  • Tyriks's Tyranids
  • Halandaar's Badab Blog!
  • Saracen's Batreps
  • milddead’s Deathguard
  • TC's Odds and Sods
  • The Order of the Broken Arrow
  • Sporadic Hobby Thoughts
  • TheArtilleryman's Fighting Machines
  • Hobby And Design
  • Wormwoods' Various Projects
  • The Observation Post
  • the blog that will probably be renamed
  • Domhnall's hobby goodness
  • Tomcat's WH40K Laser Creations

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Discord


Location


Interests


Faction


Armies played


CustomTitle

  1. Hey everyone, welcome to my hobby thread! If you're looking for one of the colour scheme tutorials from my 'March of the Legions' project or one of the basing tutorials, please check the bottom of this post for all of the relevant links. If you can't find what you're looking for or if you have a question that's not answered in the relevant post, please feel free to send me a private message. Regards, Kizzdougs. For more regular updates check out my Instagram account @raptorimperialis I've recently been feeling the urge to start a new 40K project. After much musing and many false starts, i've decided on the Thousand Sons, Pre-heresy. They aren't my favourite legion or chapter but the TS have always be a legion full of character, imagery and conversion opportunities. A perfect combination in my opinion. This project has been at least two years in the planning process. It all started when i converted a PH TS sorcerer for a conversion competition at my local GW (which i was lucky enough to win). After building the Sorcerer i knew i had to make some more TS, they are just so fun and different. Unfortunately it has taken me over two years to finally get here. The Sorcerer who started it all. He is a relatively simple kit bash with minimal GS work. I took inspiration from the Thousand Sons art in 'Collected Vissions', especially that of Ahriman and Uthizarr. http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l522/kizzdougs/photo-3.jpg The test mini. I used bits from several kits to build this terminator, the majority are from the GK terminator kit and the Tomb Guard kit (WHFB). http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l522/kizzdougs/DSCN0290.jpg?t=1313302289 With crest added. I can't decide whether to give all the terminators these crests or just keep them for the squad leaders. Any opinions and suggestions are welcome. http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l522/kizzdougs/DSCN0291.jpg?t=1313302233 http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l522/kizzdougs/DSCN0292.jpg?t=1313302169 A close up of the force weapon. Such a simple conversion but i'm fairly happy with how it turned out. Sorry about the bad lighting. http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l522/kizzdougs/DSCN0289.jpg?t=1313302359 Hopefully this project will develop and progress at a not too slow pace (fingers crossed). I plan on adding some Sisters of Silence and maybe even some Custodes at a later stage. I'm certainly feeling the necessary inspiration at the moment. Any and all suggestions and advice are more than welcome, as are questions and queries. Thanks for looking EDIT: March of the Legions Painting Tutorials: Space Marine eye lenses Legions without tutorials: World Eaters Iron Warriors Sons of Horus The Rout Imperial Fists Night Lords Thousand Sons White Scars Legions with tutorials: Blood Angels Death Guard Emperor's Children - Palatine Breachers tutorial Emperor's Children Metallic (airbrush) Salamanders Ultramarines Raven Guard Word Bearers Alpha Legion (no airbrush) - Alpha Legion (airbrush) Effrit Stealth Scheme Dark Angels Iron Hands Thousand Sons World Eaters Hobby tutorials: Basing - ZM/industrial Greenstuff tutorial Desert/rocky base building Desert/rocky base painting Eye Lens Tutorial
  2. Here's a couple of examples of capes made with this technique: First up are some basic tools: *The tissue, of course. The kind I have is a name brand, so it's relatively sturdy and is actually two thin layers. *Scissors, to cut the tissue. Trust me on this - even a brand new, razor sharp hobby knife isn't up to the task. *Long tweezers to help with positioning and moving the delicate tissue, and even more so once it's been soaked. *Clay shapers, the handle of a paintbrush, small plastic or brass tubing, etc. You'll want some kind of tools to help you shape it and get the folds you want. *A paintbrush you don't mind possibly ruining by soaking it with glue. I prefer the flat type pictured. *Hobby knife, to cut the tissue once it's partially dry if you wish to go for a distressed or tattered look. Not pictured: *PVA or white glue, and ensure that it's water soluble. *Dish of water and another smaller one for the glue. *Cyanoacrylate (CA) or "super" glue *Tape of some kind that's got a strong adhesive. I used packing tape for this. *A straight edge or ruler, preferably metal, but any with one smooth surface will work. 1) Prepping the tissue I pulled the two layers of the tissue apart and set one of them aside. I folded the single layer of tissue over on the crease that was already there and used the smooth surface of a my metal hobby ruler to press the crease flat, like you would if making a paper airplane or some such. You can see the difference in the flattened piece and the other layer: Next, I set the figure on top of the tissue with the feet at the crease. This is important because the cape will be one thin layer folded in half, and the bottom edge will be the crease, so it won't separate while you're working it. I drew a rough shape in pencil of how big I wanted the cape to be, and it actually turned out to be a touch too long, so once I cut it out, I trimmed from the top, not the bottom! Remember, we need to keep that crease as the bottom edge of the cape! 2) Anchoring In my previous attempt at this, I just used super glue to adhere the top of the cape right to the figure, but removing it to paint separately was a pain and tore the cape in a few spots. A few days ago while thinking about how to do this tutorial, I had an epiphany on the subject of removing the cape and a way to make it easier. This is where the tape comes in! I cut two small rectangles of packing tape and attached them to the back of the figure, and used a clay shaper to smooth it down and really make sure it was secured to the figure. Since the tape is clear and didn't show up very well in the photo, I outlined the pieces in this pic: Put a little dot of super glue on the tape and carefully press the tissue onto it with the tweezers, and add another dot from the top side if you have to so that it sticks. Be VERY careful about getting anything stuck to the super glue except the tissue at this point(finger tips in particular), or it will destroy the tissue and you'll have to cut out a new one and start over. Here's how it looked after each side was anchored to the tape: As you can see, the two layers are separating at the sides a little, but don't worry if that happens - it only matters if the bottom edge comes apart. At this point, I will use my fingers to move the tissue around, pushing and pulling gently, to see just what I can do with it. Sometimes the idea you had in your head for something doesn't come out as planned once you get into doing it. Think of this as the sketching phase of a drawing. Here's my rough idea(and this was quite a pain to photograph with only two hands). *NOTE* If you don't plan on removing the cape to paint separately, you can just glue it straight to the figure and not worry about the tape. 3) Glue Put some of the glue in a dish and thin it 50/50 with water. Load the brush with the thinned glue and starting from the top where the cape is anchored, slowly start soaking the tissue. Don't rush this part because it can tear easily. Once it's completely soaked, it starts to look a lot more like cloth, holding close to the figure with creases and folds. At this point, I put the figure on his base and secure it to one of my paint bottles, because you want to make sure you don't make the cape hang below the base the figure will be attached to. Next, I start moving the tissue around to make sure I cover up the the small remnant of the old cape. To do this and have it look accurate, I imagine that the wind is coming at the figure from behind him and to his right, which would press the cape against his right side and billow out to his left side. With the tweezers and the paint brush loaded with more glue at the ready, I press the cape against his side, holding it with the tweezers, and then using the paint brush add more glue and hold it in place: Important tip: Always have the paint brush handy - I'd load it with thinned glue and hold the handle of the brush in my mouth - because the tissue is so thin that the glue will start to set relatively quickly and you will sometimes need to wet an area down again to keep it supple. To get the left side of the cape to look how I want, I wet the tips of the tweezers in water and grasp the tissue, carefully pulling it out and away from the figure. Go slowly, and if you start to feel tension, back off, because it doesn't take much at all to tear it. I almost did just that because I had secured the right side of the cape to the figure so well, I nearly ripped it in half when I first started pulling on it. Go slow and easy. Once I had the cape flowing out to the side, I used the tweezers to grab small areas and twist or tug on the tissue, and clay shapers to move it around andstart putting folds into it. Since I couldn't really take photos of that, I marked out the approximate areas in red where I used the tweezers and shapers on it: Here's a look from the front side: Once you get it to where you want it, put it under a lamp to help the glue dry faster, but be wary of putting the bulb too close and possibly doing heat damage to your figure. If everything goes well, in about 20 minutes, the glue will have dried and then you can go back in with a heavy dilution of glue, around 75/25 or a little more, and put a thin coat over the cape and then stick it back under the light again. Once this second layer dries, it should really stiff and you can then pull it away from the figure. However, if things don't go well, as they did in my case, then you might have to go back and do some clean up. Normally, you can simply soak the bad area with thinned glue, fix the problem, and let it dry again. Since the glue is water soluble, you can do this as much as you want. If the problem is more severe, more drastic measures might have to be taken. Here's how the cape looked after it dried: Like a temperamental souffle, it collapsed on me while it was drying. The left side fell inward because I didn't use enough glue to hold it in place before drying, and the middle part adhered the remnant of the old cape, smoothing itself out and taking most of the folds I had worked with it. i didn't realize it would do that, and probably would again if I softened up the area and tried again. What to do? Patch it! I cut a small piece of tissue to fit in the affected area: Holding it in place with the tweezers, I used the brush to soak the top of the patch until it stuck. This was another one of those things I couldn't photograph, having only two hands. Here's a shot showing where the top of the patch is, just below the red line: Now, I knew that if I soaked the patch completely, it would probably do exactly the same thing again and smooth out against the underlying area, and I also wanted one of this big hill-and-valley type folds in the back of the cape, so I held the bottom edge of the patch with the tweezers and soaked the sides of it, leaving the middle dry and standing out away from the rest of the cape. As it's difficult to see what's wet and what's dry, I used the middle pic of these three to outline the area I soaked: When the glue on the sides of the patch dried, I went back and used a 75/25 dilution to soak the middle, and it's done. Once you're happy with the cloak, you'll need to seal it so that water will no longer soften the glue, and I always use a spray can primer for that. The tissue will have some texture to it, and if that's something you don't want, a tip from Kronus Stormbringer is to use a gloss varnish after the primer to fill in the texture. Good luck to those who try it, and if you do, I would like to see the results you get from it!
  3. Not a fan of how stubby firstborn marines are? Impartial to them but want a little consistency in your mainly-primaris force? I've written up a short guide on kitbashing the standard Vanguard Veteran kit into a more realistically-proportioned space marine using the fairly new Assault Intercessors kit as a baseline. The pictures aren't great as I wrote this tutorial after the modelling process was finished but I think it gets the point across. You can find it on my new blog: Fistful of Beans here. Your feedback on the tutorial and the blog is appreciated, brothers.
  4. Well, I promised it a little while back and I figure 'why not'. Okay, that was on my Age of Darkness Thread. "Go make a tutorial" they said, "it'll be [maybe] useful" they said. Well I'm here to prove them wrong! ... wait... Anyhow, this is Vykes' blandly and messily weathers vehicles and power armoured troopers. As a bit of a preamble, there's probably a much easier way to do this, but I'm kinda stuck with this and I'm used to it, so it works fairly well. Toy around and you'll find something that works for ya, too! if this is of any use, rock on, glad to hear! Step 1: the Gathering Storm There's not a lot to say here, the basics of this are pretty easy to get: -some water soluable oil paints (IMPORTANT FOR ME AS I'M LAZY AND IT TAKES VERY LITTLE TIME TO DRY.... comparatively), Raw umber and Ochre are my favourites for Sons of Horus. However, Ochre was more or less a Bob Ross style happy accident as it gives the green more of an olive tone and shows up on black pretty well. On other coloured power armour you might want to substitute other colours, such as greys or even mixing a few of your own. -weathering powder pigments. For this we went with terracotta earth (rusty red), a bit of european earth or slate (just something, I used a touch of both but it's minor), and carbon black (for exhaust) -brushes, a wide flat brush is fantastic for vehicles but works great in general, and some thinner easier brush you don't mind having been ruined applying powdered pigments. -some sponge for most of your work, here. -tweezers to avoid getting your fingers as messy as mine -water for, well, the "so-called-oil" -pigment fixer/matte varnish just to make sure it mattes down and doesn't come loose and gum up everything. Extra: -a high pigment metal colour such as Chrome from the Vallejo Metallics line. Step 2: Subject Checklist Alright, so you got your weathering stuff and you got your water. Now you're missing something and... oh yeah, a model. Well today we're working on a Vindicator laser destroyer that I clipped and totally gouged and vaguely mangled (snipped a few parts off I shouldn't have at 2 AM... blast). But it'll work. And there's a power armoured mk. V vet sergeant that will be here just to show the whole method works for it, too. -Be sure that you have your decals/transfers sealed in! Gloss varnish is good but as long as you have everything stuck down you're good to go. Aaaah my lovely minty green, I love that colour for tanks, plants, and quirky unicorns. Oh, and as a last bit of prep, that nice little bit of sponge you got? Tear it into a weird bread-like chunk so you can get ready for the next step. Y'know, just like this! ... why I felt I needed to take a picture, I don't know. Ask '8 AM on a rainy freezing June day' me. Step 3: Do the Dab This one isn't hard, it's just making sure you get everything. That raw umber water soluble oil paint? Squeeze some of it out into a tiny little palette/plate/plastic/cardobard bit, and make sure you coat most of the sponge. Then roll it around like you were trying to make a drybrush out of it, you don't want any goopy lumps and try a test dab. You should get a nice little speckled pattern. Cover the vehicle in your random splotched, cover everything! Just, you know, don't lather it on in dollops. There's no huge technique here yet, but getting the edges and major surfaces is just kinda important (will tell why in a second or two). Extra pic is all: -Then do it all over again with Ochre, which you can apply almost immediately! Does it look kinda obscene and pretty horrible? Oooooh yeah. Get used to that. Extra Pic again: Step 4: "Wipe! Wipe! WIPE!" AKA the Adrian Monk Effect Alright, in this, it's kinda the quintessential 'it sounds like it's pointless but trust me'. That little bit of 'importance' in getting it a little random? Yeah, it's acting as surface impurities and imperfections on the hull. -dip a flat brush in water and then wipe most of the moisture off. Then drag the brush over the oil covered hulk, dragging in one principle direction. Top down, front to back. Wet and repeat this process until you've covered the whole tank (if you need to cheat and get the cracks, just make sure to go back over it in the same direction as before). This will create nice long irregular streaks and markings. Left half done, right half not! Extra pic yet again! And it works on power armour, too! Same thing, left half done, right not. You'll end up with something like this. Oh, and as oil dries pretty slow (like, not insanely) but you can reactivate it with water and go over tide marks and anything you don't like. I just decide I enjoy it a little. Step 5: Le Huile Deja vu! Alright, so once again, take your raw umber paint sponge, 'cause you'll need it. Do the same as before but make sure you only end up with a little speckling when you test rolling it. Now comes a bit more of the fun stuff. -take the umber sponge and dab it against the edges, focusing on points where damage or wear looks most interesting and convincing. We aren't replicating Tiger 007 in Normandy, it's visuals for me. Go for the edges, and make sure to add a bit on larger plates to convey the sense of metal pitting and flecking. Think of those pewter models and where they inevitably liked to drive you crazy for where they would fleck paint off. Because this serves to show some corrosion, and as a basis for where you'll be laying down some of your chrome chipping after the fact). It's also perfectly fine in speckling an area and dragging the sponge just a touch to add some directional 'scuffs'. After you get done you'll see something like the below bit... just let it dry, even for 1 hour is usually enough with water soluable oils. Step 6: Take a Powder Dry to the touch but still clammy and horrible feeling? Good, that's oil for you. It's a pain. Now, powder, that's also a pain but for different reasons. (NOTE: I know pigment fixers can help with adherence and such on this initial step, I'm just lazy and this works for me. Meh). -Take your glorious clammy oily model and get your powders ready! Start with your darker earthtones, the rusty finish in particular is big for me and I use it a lot. Load up your brush, and powder it in with irregular spots. Make sure to stipple it and work the pigment into the crevices and corners, letting it actually work into the model. Take particular care to add these to recesses where dust and soot and grime would powder or water would form rust marks; so it's probably good to focus on deep sharp crevices including tracks and road wheels! -then, you can add slate or other earthtones overtop and 'smooth' out the harsh transitions. Your model is gonna still look gaudy, now it's just gonna look like someone dusted it with delicious delicious cinnamon. Extra picture once more Final point of note, black exhaust powder. Alright, I sometimes cheat a bit, I use black exhaust powder on the larger open vents for vehicles, but most of the time it's on the exhaust of infantry as it just settles nicer. Use your grungy brush to work it liberally into the vents, exhaust, etc, and get ready 'cause you're almost done. Step 7: The End is Nigh! varnish it.... seriously, that's it. Spray varnish works the best, start mid-stream like a bad medical check and swipe it very lightly over your model. It'll settle most of the powder it hits, then sweep it a few more times across and get into all the angles you need. You can do another layer after this is dry, or just blast it again. Inevitably it'll blow off excess lovely weathering powder so do it outside or with a mask, or something like usual with any sort of varnish that has parciles. It also serves to tone down the model and makes the vibrant weathering powder more subdued along with the oil. I use a really simple Liquitex matte varnish through my airbrush and it comes out sorta satin, but the usual gold standard dulcoat is as good as ever. Step 8: You Gonna Go Far Kid! *Hums the rest of the nightcore version to himself. So you wanna go the extra mile, ya wanna be the champ? Goin' for the gold Rocky! Okay so it's not that hard, for chipping just take a small brush and 'stipple' like you'd edge highlight just, y'know, you don't have to worry abou tit looking perfect. Or even good. Once again, remember those old pewter models and how they used to chip and you'll be good to go! just drag it where you already sponged on some of the heavier edges with the umber and it brings out a little extra 'pop'. But hoOOoold on thar Baba Looey! One might ask "What if we want to meld the new weathered model with a base? Won't they look different?" Or someone might ask that to someone else, most people mostly just ask me, "What are you doing loitering by the mall entrance?" But does the same technique work on bases? Yes, yes it does. ----- ...Till next time.
  5. Hello! I have been asked few times about my black armor recipe so I have made that quick step by step tutorial on how I do it. I hope it will be useful to someone :)
  6. Imren

    fetaste Biel Tan tutorial

    From the album: eldar paintscheme

    eldar biel-tan paint scheme
  7. https://eavy-archive.com/ I just recently found out about this site and it has already proven quite useful. It is run by Infernal Brush, who is a former member of Eavy Metal team (and has great tutorials on Youtube). I have not seen much discussion about this so maybe people are not aware of its existence. Anyways, thought people might be interested. Cheers!
  8. I've done a quick video on how to magnetise the new Field Ordnance Battery for the Astra Militarum Hope its useful to some of you - its probably not the best way of doing it, but it works and its hidden so that will do nicely for me. Cheers
  9. Skits

    Tutorial: Bases 11

    From the album: Tutorial: Bases

    So that's how to build custom bases out of leftover sprue and putty! I hope this helps, and let me know if you have any questions.
  10. Skits

    Tutorial: Bases 10

    From the album: Tutorial: Bases

    It doesn't matter if you hit underlying sprue - it carves away just as easily as the millistuff, no worries.
  11. Skits

    Tutorial: Bases 09

    From the album: Tutorial: Bases

    You can also use sandpaper to help shape and smooth out the base, if so desired (I haven't done so with this one but oh well).
  12. Skits

    Tutorial: Bases 08

    From the album: Tutorial: Bases

    Let everything dry again! Preferably overnight at least. Once it's dry, you can start carving parts away to further refine the shape of the base and remove any leftover, stray fingerprints.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.