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I have 2 very different feelings and a third related thought, the first being that the higher walls are better for the models to move in but the second is that hulk to me was all about claustrophobic spaces i.e. lower walls. the third is that you could get the same claustrophobia by dropping the occasional pipe/ladder/beam across the higher hallway every few grid-squares to make it feel like a really complete system.

 

excellent casting.

 

have you seen the new hulk termies in person yet? I practically pooped myself. some of the best plastic termies ever, even if they have librarians and lightning claws (I'm a crusader through and through: no dirty, chaos-spawning psychers are getting near my brothers!). Should go great with the set you're working up :D

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Just wow!

The size of this project and the amount of time spended on it is just impressing.

 

The high walls look good and the idea to cover the hallways sounds very athmospheric, but i think it reduces the playability of yourt board.

As this will be a game board id go with the lower wall sections. Perhaps just use the 45° angle part. This will make it much more comfortable to move the miniatures and still look more than impressive. Using short walls will cut your costs for the completed board reasonably either.

 

 

cya

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What a super project!

Of the two heights, I personally like the lower just a little bit better, but it's close.

 

What I like about what you did here is that you're not making it easy on yourself. If i would have done something like this, I'd probably have worked off of the citadel buildings and gone with straight walls. But the way you've done it with the angled walls looks fantastic.

 

Keep em coming.

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Been hoping to do something like this since the CoD stuff was released. Nice to see that someone has actually done it and made it look really good.

 

Very nice work on the actual walls. My initial thoughts were to just use the CoD pieces as they were, but what you have done has really emphasised the actual locale and i think that helps to boost the overall presentation.

 

Still very undecided about the wall height. Both do look good. Perhaps maybe using a combination of the two? I'd imagine there would be areas where they have the larger corridors to act as service corridors where the smaller corridors would be used to suggest more common corridors where it's more for general flow of "traffic" rather than the moving of heavy items.

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I think that it while the origonal does need to be shorter the new version is too short and loses too much detail, i made a a quick mock-up of what i would use if it were me.

 

I reworked the central one and left the other two for a comparison.

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c328/dragosolaris/LowerWall.jpg

 

EDIT: Also an idea for saving on materials when it came to making pillars is to make two seperate pieces that fit together. A little more time consuming yes but it would save on cost.

 

Top view of the idea:

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c328/dragosolaris/Pillar.jpg

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you do not want to do plaster for a million reasons, but the main ones are that plaster is brittle, cumbles with wear, releases poorly when poured thin, and even at it's best will probably not take the level of detail you're hoping for.

 

resin may feel expensive but it's the cheapest for what you're trying to do. it drives me up a wall when people cast in green stuff or similar- it's several dollars an ounce, and non-fluid! crazy! not that you suggested that. but yeah plaster is pretty much a no-no.

 

if you think resin is expensive, try casting figures in Britannia :P. Beautiful results but pricey, about 10 dollars per pound on the best day.

 

however, if you're really keep on cutting costs while casting less than 10mm thick, super high melt wax (the kind often used for candlewick coating and ship riggings) can go for as cheap as 50c per pound and has a melting point (by definition) equal to or higher than boiling. However, to use it all you need is a stovetop, a pot, a coffee tin with a spout and gripping-point "wrought" out with pliers (note - 90 degrees between spout and grip, pour by turning wrist, NOT 180 degrees between, which is useless/clumsy), and those same pliers (for handing the tin). you won't see changes in shape or solidity under 100 degrees, and who plays wargames in 100 degrees anyway? craft paint can also act as an insulator against heat (well, it's far slower...so cold objects stay cold inside, warm objects stay warm inside). still, if you go this rout, it's best kept in the basement, and it is more likely to crack than resin (though far, far less than plaster).

 

at 5 USD for a 10 pound box, why not experiment a little?

 

 

I just checked on my super-high-melt figurines in the basement, sitting comfortably at about 95 degrees (87 indoors) by day for the last month with no sign of scale change, slumping, or cracked paint.

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I sincerely share frater Lavaman wish :

I really hope to see it finished!..

But be sure this is a very loooooooong work, especially at the level of detail you chose. I only count one friend that owns (since the V1 version) a full 3D Spulk and this man is MAD 8). Heard that GW owned a very nice one too (shown at some GD).

Will keep an eye, it starts really well.

 

DS

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I am amazed by the shier awesomeness of what you have done. Very very well done.

on a side note i heard that hes a chaplain instead of a librarian. which is it?

 

also side note

imo which ever that model is hes one sexy beast if i may say so. if not someone message me and ill fix it. still new at this. :P

by tell me i mean pm me.

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