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Do you remove mould lines?


I've been building my Orks from my new pile of shame and it's going a lot slower than I thought it would. It takes me probably 30 minutes per model just to scrape off all the mould lines! 

 

When you think I've got nearly a hundred models to build (2 x 20 model units of Boyz was a bad place to start) it's going to take me a millennium before I'm ready to get them primed, painted and onto the tabletop. 

 

As frustrating as it is, I think it's a lot better than the alternative. Mould lines left on models really stick out - at least to me - and look... unfinished, even when they're painted. Some of them are really subtle or in places you'd never see unless a model was an inch in front of your face but some of them stick out like a giant neon sign. You know those people that like to watch people popping spots? I'd watch an ASMR video of someone scraping mould lines of Warhammer models. 

 

In fact I'd consider paying for someone to do it all for me so all I had to do was assemble my models like little Lego pieces then move on with my life. I'm glad I didn't bother in picking up a mould line remover tool, there's no way that chunky tip could get into half the nooks and crannies those pecky mould lines show up. Hobby knife all the way, baby!

 

I'd love to know if you spend the time to remove mould lines on your models or if you're a psychopath and leave them on! Drop a comment below :)

8 Comments


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Karhedron

Posted

I also remove mine but honestly, trying to use the GW tool is like sweeping the floor with a toothbrush. Get a couple of fine modelling files instead. They clean up mould lines nicely and are also good for tackling any flash left over after removing bits from a sprue. Plenty of brands around, I got mine from Gaugemaster but others will do equally well.

 

https://www.gaugemasterretail.com/gaugemaster-gm632.html

iplay40k.com

Posted

54 minutes ago, Karhedron said:

I also remove mine but honestly, trying to use the GW tool is like sweeping the floor with a toothbrush. Get a couple of fine modelling files instead. They clean up mould lines nicely and are also good for tackling any flash left over after removing bits from a sprue. Plenty of brands around, I got mine from Gaugemaster but others will do equally well.

 

https://www.gaugemasterretail.com/gaugemaster-gm632.html

 

I do use model files in some instances but tend to go over the areas with a hobby knife after - sometimes even fine model files leave a surface looking very chewed up. The hobby knife (or very fine sanding blocks) does a good job of smoothing things over.

MoriyaSchism

Posted

I use 400/600 grit sanding sticks from Albion Alloys and a craft knife to remove them. I usually take a lot of time cleaning things until they are just right, even the areas between the vents on the Space Marine power packs. Takes me about 15 minutes to clean a single infantry figure. In the future I will be getting some sanding needles from the same manufacturer and the Dspiae rotary sanding disc tool.

Grotsmasha

Posted

I offer moldline removal in three tiers when completing Assembly Commissions. 1- Just sprue attachment points scrapped flat, 2- moldlines removed from the assembled model, which means not EVERY line is got, but the prominant ones, and 3- EVERY piece has it's moldline removed PRIOR to assembly. 3 is the most thorough, but takes an excessive amount of time, and is best for characters. 2 is quite effeciant, and is usually enough for 90% of models in an army. 1, no one has ever chosen option 1, I'd never recommend it.

Personally for my models, I always do option 3, the end result is worth it.....and I don't paint armies for myself, usually single models and characters.

iplay40k.com

Posted

15 hours ago, MoriyaSchism said:

I use 400/600 grit sanding sticks from Albion Alloys and a craft knife to remove them. I usually take a lot of time cleaning things until they are just right, even the areas between the vents on the Space Marine power packs. Takes me about 15 minutes to clean a single infantry figure. In the future I will be getting some sanding needles from the same manufacturer and the Dspiae rotary sanding disc tool.

 

Sanding needles sounds like the perfect tool for all those tiny areas you can't poke anything else into. I usually just think 'well it's so tiny I'm not going to notice it' but I know it's there... taunting me :angry:

iplay40k.com

Posted

4 hours ago, Grotsmasha said:

I offer moldline removal in three tiers when completing Assembly Commissions. 1- Just sprue attachment points scrapped flat, 2- moldlines removed from the assembled model, which means not EVERY line is got, but the prominant ones, and 3- EVERY piece has it's moldline removed PRIOR to assembly. 3 is the most thorough, but takes an excessive amount of time, and is best for characters. 2 is quite effeciant, and is usually enough for 90% of models in an army. 1, no one has ever chosen option 1, I'd never recommend it.

Personally for my models, I always do option 3, the end result is worth it.....and I don't paint armies for myself, usually single models and characters.

 

Only a nutjob would choose option 1!! To be honest I have found on some of the newer models there seems to be more thought put into the mould lines - I assembled Mozrog Skragbad yesterday and a lot of the lines were inside places where you glue the pieces together. I appreciated not having to spend 2 hours just cleaning up the model before I assembled it :laugh:

TheArtilleryman

Posted

These days I do Grot’s option 3 on everything. I didn’t used to though and I really notice it on some of my older models. The worst thing is where I haven’t assembled something quite right in the past, like where two halves of a gun barrel don’t quite line up right. Really gives me the cringe factor looking at things like that now.

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