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stikky greenstuff


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guys, my skills with GS is as good as a monkey with a spoon eating a banana split (really bad that is).

and i see people sculpting GS everywhere, i tried a couple of times and had a problem: when i try to sculpt someting ontop of a model, (a tabard or something) the greenstuff won't stay in place and sticks to my tools, so how do you guys get your GS stuck to the models so you can easely sculpt?

 

the rick

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I use either water, washing up liquid or vaseline, try to keep the tool your sculpting with wet with one of those three so that the plastic your attaching to it becomes the GS's preferred home,

 

It is tricky though but a little practise soon gets rid of all those frustrating times when it sticks to you :o .

 

Mind I'm not the greatest of sculptors, but i'm sure some others will reply with better advise.

Remember to dry the surface that your applying it to and the side of the greenstuff you want to stick to it, if its wet itll stay stuck to your tools. And you can stick it on with your hands in a rough fashion then smooth out the finger prints and form it how you like with tools. Its much easier to work with when its actually stuck to the model.

I put a couple drops of beat-seed oil (canola oil) on a piece of folded over paper towel. Then run your tools over the damp spot gs may be sticky, but oil really helps. Be warned though, if you want to use anything BUT water, you will need to wash your model with soap and water before painting. or the paint may end up bubbling.

 

Kolli

All good tips. Here's what I do...

 

keep the model BONE DRY

 

I wet my Greenstuff a lot for mixing and sit it in water while I'm working with smaller bits off the larger ball. When I grab a small piece to work with on the model I work it until it's dry and sticky.

 

I lick my scuplting tool before I touch it to Greenstuff EVERY TIME. If you use an XActo knife, don't do this. I find licking gets the tool wet enough to not stick without getting the model or the Greenstuff more wet.

You're fear mongering. The amount of "toxins" on a metal tool that just rubbed across the top of it is insignificant... if there are any. Your body would absorb more from mixing and shaping it with your fingertips.

 

There are things one should really be afraid of in life. Secondary oral contact with Greenstuff is not one of them.

You're fear mongering.

 

But isnt that what we few mods do best on the B&C?? No??

 

Im sure of it. <_<

 

Aside from that, I wouldnt want any of the younger Frater chewing on the stuff, thinking it would quicken the process of sculpting.

Exactly - and given that you have a good point about absorbing toxins through the skin - use disposable plastic gloves when mixing the putty (the sort that you use with hair dyes etc - that's where I get mine from...or the gloves at petrol stations). As for the toxic properties of Greenstuff, again, can't condone the "secondary contact" thing - it is still very nasty stuff, all exoxy-based materials are...one of my friends worked as a chief chemical engineer at Ciba Geigy (makers of Araldite), hence the inside info. Milliput is worse BTW - it is a proven carcinogen. I still use it but always use plastic gloves..

i highly recommend the licking method. <_< and no worries, green stuff is non-toxic, read the product information that comes with the stuff.

 

just remember to keep the surface the greenstuff is applied to dry so that it sticks, and your sculpting tools wet as you use them.

I wouldnt want any of the younger Frater chewing on the stuff, thinking it would quicken the process of sculpting.
<_< *spits out GS and scrapes tounge with spoon*

 

Milliput is worse BTW - it is a proven carcinogen

is that the "brown/white" stuff? wouldn't it stick to the gloves all the time or do you keep these wet all the time like the sculpting process?

 

 

DM :wink:

It's just NOT that dangerous. Polymetrics themselves recommend mixing and sculpting with your fingertips. It's boggling that anyone would suggest using gloves or not licking a metal tool that's *touched* Greenstuff. <_< Even in the case of Miliput as a proven carcinogen (assuming you're right for the sake of discussion) the amount of exposure required to do any damage wouldn't be met by *any* hobbyist (unless maybe if they ate it, don't eat it!)
I lick my scuplting tool before I touch it to Greenstuff EVERY TIME

 

Mmmmm yummy <_< Yes I would also not lick my tools directly as you may get the wrong batch of GS and end up googly :wink: Although as horrible as it may sound it may be better but I normally lick/spit on my finger and rub that in - using a different finger each time of course or cleaning them off before the next time. You could also spit directly onto the tool depending upon your skill in that department or spit onto little tray and rub your tool there. Some may find this a horrible thing to do but others may not.

 

I have also had the same problem with GS and I like to leave it for a bit to get slightly harder. Normally works out well and is less sticky

Eh, I just use the oil from my skin (as in run the tool in the crease where your nose meets your face). I wouldn't suggest doing that with sharper tools though. Not fear mongering, if you want to cut your nose off I don't care...just don't blame me. <_< If you need to lube a sharp tool just run your fingers along the crease and rub those onto the tool.

 

It's cheap, does the trick and you will never run out.

I like to use vaseline. Scoop a little bit out with the sculpting tool, wipe most of it off on the knuckle of your thumb (so there should be a little blob there, but very little vaseline on the tool itself). Whenever you feel the GS sticking slightly, just scrape lightly at the bit of "reserve" vaseline that's on your hand so there's a thin film of the stuff on your sculpting tool. Works fine for me.

 

Also, make sure that there's no GS (mixed or not) stuck to your tool when you're sculpting. Nothing more annoying than having a tiny little bit messing up your work...

I use vaseline, and have done for a few years. Have also used chap stick's as well. They are cheap and work just as well as vaseline, except you do need to cover the tool more often than with vaseline.

 

As for making the GS stick to the model. If you are constantly having this problem, I would probably try adding a little more yellow to the mix, as this will make it cure slower, and should remain tactile for slightly longer.

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