BKZer0

Not 100% sure what you are asking. If you could clarify I would be happy to answer.

@Brother-Captain Arkhan, Thanks, huge fan of your work too.

@Boyka I really should do a tutorial some time. I am good at it now, but it was a lot of trial and error. First I printed my own deals. I have never tried using the forgeworld decals, but I do know that Gamesworkshop ones are terrible. The decals are printed using a color laser jet. This is important because a laser jet does not use ink, it uses toner which is not affected by water. Once the decals are printed they are sealed to the paper using Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic #1303 or #1303A (Doesn't matter). This basically encases the artwork between the decal membrane and the clear coat protecting it. All surfaces that are to receive a decal are prepped with a generous coating of Krylon Crystal Clear. This gives the surface a smooth gloss surface which is free of imperfections. Think of it like applying a decal to glass. Once the clear coat is dry I coat the surface with Micro Set. This is a decal setting agent and really helps the decal bind to the surface. I apply the decal to the surface and move it around with an exacto knife and a stuff brush. You have a few seconds to move the decal into position before you run the risk of sticking and wrinkles. Once the decal is where I want it I just let it sit until the Micro Set / residual water dries. sometimes if there is still a ton of fluid, or the decal seems to be floating on the surface I wick it up with a piece of paper towel taking care not to disturb the decal. When the decal is dry it will typically be a little wrinkled. I coat the entire decal with Micro Sol, and let it soak for a second. Micro Sol is a solvent that dissolves the decal membrane and makes it very very soft. It will allow the decal to conform to irregular shapes (like a shoulder pad). At this point I typically use one of my brushes to press the wrinkles out of the decal. You have to be careful here though. The Micro Sol will make the decal so soft that it will tear easy. Also don't touch it with you fingers because you will left the decal off the surface. I usually do the above step up to 3 times depending on how well the decal is sitting. The next thing I do is soak a Q-Tip in Micro Sol, and really press it into the surface by applying pressure and rolling the Q-tip over the surface like you are using a rolling pin. The last thing I do it any touch up work with paint. For example some deals develop rip that I just patch with some black paint. Micro Sol is nasty stuff and if you are not careful it will eat through the cleat coat so don't get too aggressive. It will also dissolve GW Washes. Once everything is dry, and I mean bone dry, you will need to clear coat everything. You have to remember you not have a gloss surface with an equally glossy decal on it which is not good. Apply a generous coat of Testors Dull coat. Don't go nuts because dull coat tents to start to dry while if it is too thick (but you have to add a lot for that too happen). If done right, the dull coat will both remove the gloss shine, and remove the edge of the decal.

@Rojo To finish the army there will be: 1 Dreadnaught 1 Land Raider 1 Predator 2 Rhinos 1 Centurion Devastator Squad (This was not part of the original plan. The models are new, and I like the way they look so I want...) That is it. 1 Rhino is for the II Tactical Squad, and the other is for the Command Squad. I am going to get a Forge Word Damocles Command Vehicle as a stand in for the Command Squad Rhino just to make it stand out and be unique. The Dreadnaught is next followed by the Predator probably because I physically own those models from the Space Marine Force bundle I bought a while ago.

Here we go all finished. I left the banner detachable. I am not the biggest fan of how it came out, or the look of the model with it so I left it off for the pictures. Front: http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150309_221734.jpg Left: http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150309_221844.jpg Right: http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150309_221918.jpg Back: http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150309_221946.jpg Top: http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150309_222658.jpg And here are some detail pictures from the group up. Legs: http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150309_222223.jpg Cog Mechanicum: http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150309_222801.jpg Shoulder: http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150309_222128.jpg And look at that face... Isn't he cute? http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150309_222312.jpg Most fun I've ever had painting a model. 10/10 would paint again.

Last update before finally assembly and completion. I decided to bust out the airbrush for painting the bone colored pieces. I went with approximately 2:1 Airbrush medium to paint. The thinning was required to just get the paint to run through the airbrush in the first place without clogging. However, it took a few coats to cover fully and I had to be careful to avoid pooling. http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150225_190853.jpg I hand painted the red in place. The color I used is a custom color I made a few years ago for my Rhino it is approximately 2:1 Citadel Foundation Paint Mechrite and Citadel Scab Red. Foundation paint was some heavy duty stuff. I would not dare put it in the air brush. http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150226_200426.jpg The first thing I decided to tackle was the Black/Bone pieces. Here is a completed Shin armor piece: http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150227_210559.jpg And the complete set of black/bone armor pieces This is just prior to clear coating. I painted all my pieces with Krylon Cystal Clear Gloss finish to give the decals something smooth to work with. http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150228_154956.jpg The next thing I did was all the red bits. Here is the top porthole which I am happy with. I am OK wet blending green. Not so much any other color. http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150301_001722.jpg Finally all the finished and decaled armor pieces. This was the worst. I am used to making my own decals and working with them. The GW decals are very flimsy and really like to stick to themselves... and nothing else. On top of that, despite their flimsy nature, they are very think, and no amount of MicroSol blends them into the surface. I found a few time, even after the decal was left to set for 30+ minutes, it could still move the dry decal with my finger like it never bonded to the surface. Copious amounts of MicroSet and MicroSol were spent, but I got it done. I also clear coated the pieces with Gloss again before applying matte just to try and smooth the surface. I got excellent results, but what I process. Also, the kit just does not come with enough decals. My original design called for a white gear with a 6 in the middle to be placed onto each of the black shin areas. It was only later that I learned there is only 1 white gear of appropriate size. To achieve the desired effect I also had to place sever decals on top of decals. For example the skull in the center of the gear on the bone knee. No ideal. I give this kit a D+ on decals at the best. Not quite failing... but you know, barely passed. Anyway, finished pieces pre-assembly: http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150301_164713.jpg All that is left to do is paint a few little accent pieces, assemble and base. My next post should be a completed model.

Amazing. Everything in this thread looks straight out of the codex.

Armed and ready! Here is a close up of the Cog Mechanicum on the back of the gun arm. http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150220_203545.jpg The completed thermal cannon arm. note the clear coat over the decal was not completely dry yet giving the dark appearance. http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150222_000421.jpg WIP pose head on: http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150222_182553.jpg right: http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150222_182506.jpg Left: http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150222_182539.jpg I still have not glued the arms or body in place. Time to bust out the airbrush and paint some armor!

Next update: Here is the approximate final pose of the completed model. I chose to have the model facing left, but looking right kind of like it is lunging with the gun arm. http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150211_212337.jpg I chose to paint the chainsword first. Here is the near-complete model: http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150218_231312.jpg I need to differentiate between the metal used for the machine bits, and the metal used on the armor trim. I want to make the armor trim a very shinny silver. Here is the WIP Picture for the armor trip. You can see the blade of the chainsword is much brighter than the machine parts: http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150218_231057.jpg Lastly I starting painting some of the bits. (hoses and pipes). Here is a picture of the copper colored fuel tanks filled with a glowing green liquid. http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150221_011355.jpg Something to note, I am holding the arm by a piece of blue painters tape the I wrapped around the end. Prior to this picture I realize that the red on the arm was rubbing onto my fingers, and I subsequently rubbed the red all over the metal arm making the arm pink, rose colored metal. I repainted the arm, and proceeded to quickly clearcoat the red which also got rid of the patchy sheen from the washes.

@kizzdougs What's not to like about space looters? By the way do you have any relic "gifts" I could have?

@Zeller For painting the Marines I: painted the legs and torsos and one assembly together temporarily glued to a base. painted the heads on the sprue as they are only attached at the neck for the arms I used my pin vice to drill a small hole when the arm would attach to the torso, or when convenient, in a place that they should pad covered. They are held with friction alone to a paper clip. I drilled the barrels of the bolters and they are held to tooth picks with friction alone. (Be careful not to split the barrel, it happens) The backpacks were printed on sprue and snipped and cleaned up at the end. The shoulders were painted while sitting on some painters tape, the insides did not get a terrible amount of paint since you will never see them. Once painting was complete I had to use a file or hobby knife to rough up the connection surfaces because glue doesn't stick to paint. For the knight, the surfaces are so big I could just handle the model with my hands.

It can see! http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150208_183014.jpg That little scratch over the right eye came like that from the factory. It gives it character I guess. I really like the head, it is almost a shame I am going to cover it with a face mask. Head attached with machine guns. http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150208_202849.jpg Approximate position of final pose. http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150208_202946.jpg I guess all that is left now is arms and armor!

Minor update, All the little hoses, pistons, and covers have been added to the leg and torso sub-assemblies. http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150202_195132.jpg

Honestly, probably not, for a few reasons. Mainly because the rest of the army as pictured in the previous posts is mostly clean (Think GW box art). I do apply some light weathering in the form of varying layers of brown washes where applicable, but because of this, the model will remain un-weathered to match. The more in depth answer is I have tried weathering over the years to varying degrees and have never been personally happy with the results, sure it looks OK, but it is not what I wanted. I would only consider weathering if I KNEW I could get it right, and that required a lot more practice which is something I am not willing to do on such an expensive and time consuming model. I know I am chickening out, but weathering is a project for another day for me.

On to the torso. I painted and assembled the majority of the larger sub assemblies. Good old two tone Cog Mechanicum. http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150129_225836.jpg Better picture to scale. http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150129_225631.jpg Lastly I did the front and sides. I feel that the model needs a contrasting metal, in my case brass, because it is just sooo silver. Brass is not a standard color that I used in my army so I am using it very sparingly on the model. Here is a picture of one of the sides, complete with detail, as early I used brass for all the servo covers. http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150130_215437.jpg Next order of business, bits! http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150128_203953.jpg

I completed the leg assembly minus the little detail bit. I figured they would make the model harder to paint in the long run. I will add them at a later date. http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150127_154848.jpg http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150127_155032.jpg I pinned the feet to the legs. They only get attached by 4 very small points of contact, and it just didn't seem very sturdy, especially with the massive amount of model that has to go on top. Once the feet were attached, I took my pin vice and drilled straight through the bottom of the feet, and up into the lower leg with a .8mm bit. I then took a paper clip and straightened it, covered it in super glue, and pushed it through the hole in the foot with a pair of pliers. Then I filled the hole in the foot with more glue to keep the whole this secure. Next up is the torso. I already have all the pieces base coated in silver, so it is just a matter of doing the detail work.

Long time no see. Before I begin, I figured I would indulge you all in a little more of my concept art. Concept Art: http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/knight.jpg For my next project I will be painting an Imperial Knight. As most of you know, Imperial Knights are not part of a chapter, and therefor are should not be painted as such (lore wise at least). However, I really wanted the knight, which at its massive size will clearly be the center piece, to match the rest of the army. What I chose to do was take an Imperial Knight from House Taranis, which is Bright Red/Black/White, and color :cuss it slightly to be Dark Red/Black/Bone White. I thought this would be a decent compromise. The knight would "for the most part" hold true to its codex colors, and "for the most part" match my army. I am happy with the results of the concept art alterations, so I am going to run with it. I read the Codex cover to cover, and decided to right a real brief origin story, nothing extravagant. Anyway, on to the progress. If you build something, you should start from the ground up, right? Therefore I started with the feet. It also gave me an opportunity to use most the colors on one small assembly to test everything out. Red (Armor), Dark Metal (Skeleton), Black (Accents), Silver (Trim). http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150121_201358.jpg Cleaning up the work, Terminator for scale. http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/feet.jpg http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150121_231506.jpg This took longer than I wanted it to so I decided to batch paint the next few assemblies. Everything is silver..... http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150123_191501.jpg Next it is on to the legs. I was heavily inspired by the demo model on the GW website. I believe it is House Krast? I will be doing red accents similar to the ones shown in their 360 preview. http://40k.zombiecrisis.org/20150126_195104.jpg That's all for now, thanks for looking! Questions? Comments?

Thanks! SOOOOON.... I am in the process of painting 31 bases for these guys. I have also decided to repaint my 10 finished models bases. They currently have a brown rim around them which I am going to be repainting black. I feel it fits the overall scheme of the army better. The brown was originally there for contrast, but I want to make a magnetized army display for the completed army, and I think the brown rim will just clash with what I am planning on doing.

I built the with the standard Space Marine Codex in mind. I have technically only played 3 full games of 40K ever. I have always been much more into the lore, painting, and video games than playing the actual tabletop game. I picked the Generic Space Marine Codex because it provided me access to the entire SM catalog of units. I am also pretty boring and generic.

Thank you very much for the kind words everyone. rydhus: I would love to see them when you are done. Based on the work in your website, you army will come out looking better than mine.

I really took your original post to heart. I have a few tanks to paint before I get to the Knight later this summer. As I said earlier, I think I am leaning towards what you posted as option #4. Maybe I will write some stuff up and run it by everyone again to get their lore opinion on it.

I'm glad I stirred up some interesting discussion. For now, the tentative plan is the one posed by Reinhard. That will allow me to do stuff like this: http://img1.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20140316090141/warhammer40k/images/c/ca/House_Hawkshroud_Banners.jpg As far as picking a house that matches my army, that is fairly difficult for me. I painted my Blood Ravens as close to Dawn of War colors as I could. This means they are closer to a maroon-red than the bright-red of the Blood Angels and most red knight depicted in the art books. I still have some considering to do I guess.

I like that idea. No need for me to paint a venerable dreadnaught now. Veteran Sergeant What's Your Face, you have been upgraded to Imperial Knight.

I don’t know if this is necessarily the place to ask a lore/fluff question, so please correct me if I am wrong. I am a big fan of the Imperial Knight as a model, and would like to incorporate one into my army list at some point. Let me preface this by saying that I am a huge stickler for adhering to lore and codex standards, i.e. squad markings, insignias, colors, etc... Before tackling an Imperial Knight, I decided it was best to read up on their lore and backstories to try and “get it right”. I learned all about the various houses, Knight Patterns, and all that fun jazz, and therein lies my problem. The idea in my head was to paint the Knight model to match the rest of my army. However, after reading up on everything, I realize that isn’t really how it works. Even using the “freeblade” excuse, the Knight would still not logically paint himself to match a Space Marine chapter. My army Chapter is the Blood Ravens. Because they are essentially space kleptomaniacs and steal every artifact of significance that isn’t nailed down, I thought it could be possible lore wise for them to find a lost/old/abandoned Knight while scavenging for relics on a Forge World or Knight World, and repurpose it for their own uses. My question to you would be is something like this possible? Does a scenario like this sound plausible from a lore standpoint? If so, would a Space Marine or Tech Marine be capable of piloting the Knight? I want to avoid a “Chaos Tau” or other similar “couldn’t happen, lore says so” type situation. Thanks in advance.

A few more updates. I finished painting all the little accessory pieces, and I took a picture or two of that to share, and I painted the banner. Assault Marine with pouches and Krak Grenades: http://www.40k.zombiecrisis.org/20140521_224605.jpg Purity Seals: http://www.40k.zombiecrisis.org/20140522_212735.jpg My Banner Bearer: http://www.40k.zombiecrisis.org/20140524_162536.jpg I provided a small tutorial for how I made the banner here: http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/291498-making-a-banner-with-custom-waterslide-decals/