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My FW Reaver Titan!


boreas

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I want one too!

The leg looks great!

 

But please, please, post a pic of that "Beast rider" space marine hidden behind the leg! I want to see a pic of it!

 

I'm such a tease! I put it there on purpose wondering when somebody would ask that. Thank you sir, I'll start another thread tonight!

 

Here's the new thread:

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...howtopic=138019

 

Phil

  • 1 month later...

Ok, time for an update! Through 45 hours workweeks, weekly Apocalypse games, Battlestar Galactica's 3rd season,2 kids, wife and friends I still managed to find some time to work on the Reaver!

 

The legs are up and towering already! The front and back "cod-pieces" look a bit rough on the pictures. Although it's not as bad on the model, I'm still a bit unhappy with the "texture". The power cables went in fine, using a hair dryer to make them bendable. Doing the second leg was a bit boring, as it involved doing more of the same, cutting pistons and stuff like that. No real creativity hear. I haven't done the toes yet. I regret not doing a base for my Warhound and won't make the same mistake twice. So I guess the toes will go down last, to ensure they "hug" whatever scenery will be under them. Now, onward to the torso!

 

By the way, that's my first marine. I bought a sprue from the macragge kit, to start testing colors. Not sure about a name or anything, but since GW seems to have ditched the Inquisition, at least for a few... YEARS... I might as well play an army that I'll be able to ally in Apocalypse. Yeah, that and all the uber-goodies coming out in the next codex!

 

http://bp2.blogger.com/_KYc5-ZYzLRk/SHYU5h74AuI/AAAAAAAAAJs/diqHijaUdX8/s320/reaver2%20002.jpg

 

http://bp3.blogger.com/_KYc5-ZYzLRk/SHYVJbZ2TTI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/8qtlKleFm38/s320/reaver2%20004.jpg

 

For more detailed pictures, onward to my blog!

 

http://leblogboreas.blogspot.com/

 

Phil

  • 4 weeks later...

Time for an update! Well, there you go! I started the inside. Thanks god, because painting the chassis can be surprisingly repetitive and tiresome. That's given me a new drive to keep on with he project! As you can see, the sometimes dubious quality of FW products is clearly demonstrated here (some parts of the metallic support are clearly deformed...). Oh well, I won't take as much care of the interiors as I should. It's meant, after all, as a gaming piece!

 

http://bp0.blogger.com/_KYc5-ZYzLRk/SJZy3OFYk1I/AAAAAAAAAKM/A5ymiws6f1g/s320/IMG_1029.jpg

 

http://bp1.blogger.com/_KYc5-ZYzLRk/SJZyh7S-lCI/AAAAAAAAAKE/b78X3NyZNQs/s320/IMG_1028.jpg

 

As usual, foe bigger picts, onward to my blog!

 

Phil

  • 5 weeks later...

OK, next update. I must say I got really tired of painting this! Might seem weird, but working on something for a few weeks without actually having something to play with is a bit discouraging! Anyways, I'm halfway back on track, as other projects are currently running... I managed to finish the top and with some luvk, the main compartment should be finish this month (if I don't get sidetracked by my SMs too much).

 

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KYc5-ZYzLRk/SMFkPqrCLLI/AAAAAAAAAKY/XC8SbCaequU/s320/IMG_0896.jpg

 

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KYc5-ZYzLRk/SMFkq7KP9PI/AAAAAAAAAKg/emtyqHPTeJ0/s320/IMG_0897.jpg

 

Have a nice day!

 

Phil

  • 1 month later...

In my experience resin is fairly hard to break. its got quite a bit of bend to it. when it does break it seems to break fairly even with a little of the bend left. this if pretty easy to correct. resin seems to bondalmost instantanously and strongly with super glue. add in some pins and you have a fixed break that is sturdier then the original piece.

 

If you are affraid that you are going to put together a piece and it will break where you glue it, then all you need to do is spend some time pinning it and it will be fine.

 

Understand that buying resin models is a commitment in money, but also a sizeable commitment in time. cleaning and pinning is ESSENTIAL. if you arnt going to buy resin because you are afraid its going to break, then you shouldnt buy metal or plastic because it will brake just as easily.

 

2 cents.

not impossible, just annoyingly tricky to put right. im guessing metal coat hangers were used as pins in the Reaver Class Titan.

 

if i was building it then i would definately use hefty pins for strength and the best Cyanoacrylate ie ZAP CA by PACER & ZAP Kicker to facilitate instant cure/rapid bonding. it would be a huge undertaking requiring alot of time and money. one which i would love to embark on however the £600 + that i would need could be spent on other things. for those that dare its the ultimate challenge.

 

i salute you boreas. i hope you have time to do some more updates soon as i would love to see how far this project has come. cheers.

 

peace

 

 

+++ edit +++

 

Invictus BA i was beaten by your ninja post ~smiles~

okay, just I have dropped a 1/76 Land Rover LWB w/ GS Trailer from about 7 foot and all I had to do was re-glue on the right rear wheel, what I mean by "easily breakable" is a knock off table to break

 

Also, with the pinning and glueing any other suggestions, as that I have not heard of that Zap stuff, I only use the poundshop's Epoxy for fixing my walking stick when it breaks

ZAP CA & other ZAP products by PACER can be purchased very very cheaply in the UK from Fast Track Models Eshop i find their prices to be half that of model retail stores in town (with regards to this particular line of products). hope this helps somewhat.

 

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t229/zrolimit88/DSC04899.jpg

 

peace

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