Starks333 Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 they are coming along very nicely so far :P using some or the purple or red to apply some glazes to the metals to spice them up and adding some colour to the bases will help big time, just some simple quick layers so i agree with blackbone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heru Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 Ah I just realised what was bugging me about your Imperial Fists, they lack the traditional Company colour on the should pad rims (unless they are of the 2nd Company, but then if they were they'd be better with Gold rims). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icallitsoda Posted July 16, 2008 Author Share Posted July 16, 2008 Blackbone - You're right that the bases need a second element. Given that it's city style, maybe some rusty metal bits/pipes. Hmm. Any specific ideas? I usually just flock my bases and call it a day. Those are the most elaborate bases I've ever done. :) Starks333 - Good idea about adding a hint of colour to the metal - I'll try it. Heru Talon - Yes, my excuse is that they are 2nd company. But the real reason for the yellow trim is because I feel that it adds to the effect of the yellow overall. It's also easier because I don't have to distinguish between the trim and the pad. I've tried red and white trims in the past, but I'll likely stick to the yellow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lamenter Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 Very nice yellow, these look superb. Keep it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick_ Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 Great job there I love the yellow :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icallitsoda Posted July 19, 2008 Author Share Posted July 19, 2008 Next two in the works: http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/maxh/IMG_0478.jpghttp://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/maxh/IMG_0479.jpg Textured the bases, black primer, 3 coats of 75/25 Iyanden Darksun/water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icallitsoda Posted August 26, 2008 Author Share Posted August 26, 2008 full squad http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...howtopic=144293 http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/maxh/IMG_0494.jpg update! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stargazer Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 They look awesome my only criticism is that there isn't any text on the purity seals but thats just a minor thing other than that they look brill keep it up! -_- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icallitsoda Posted August 28, 2008 Author Share Posted August 28, 2008 Yeah, I'm thinking of adding text to the purity seals and some litanies on a few larger armour sections. ...and possibly adding snow to the bases Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evapilotone Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 First off I must say how bold and smooth you've got the yellow to look. veery impressive. Could you give us a guide as to how you've done your transfers? They look amazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
termitom Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 WICKED! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icallitsoda Posted July 31, 2009 Author Share Posted July 31, 2009 Thread and project resurrected, for yellow justice. Evapilotone asked how I do decals and so I will explain that. I use microsol and microset for applying the decals. I can't recommend them enough. Your local hobby store should carry them - you should be able to get both for about ten bucks. Microsol makes the decal very soft and flexible. This allows the decal to really lay down and drape iteself on and conform to the surface of the shoulder pad. "Microset prepares the surface with special wetting agents that cut the oils in new paint and convert the adhesive on the back of the decal to a stronger and longer lasting one. The decal's better adhesion to the model prevents tiny air bells from occurring and results in an invisible carrier film or the so called "paint on look." -source So basically, you apply microsol to the decal and microset to the painted shoulderpad. Then take a microsol-dampened paint brush and slide the decal on to the shoulderpad, then carefully position it. Don't use a dry paint brush, it will wick up all the solution when you're positioning the decal. Positioning the decal once it's on the shoulderpad is a little tricky, but like anything else, it just takes practice. Also, I find that even though the microsol has made the decal very soft, you still need to make some cuts going halfway into the decal before applying it. Use your modelling knife and gently cut a slit or two going about halfway across. WARNING: this means your decal will be very very fragile when you're positioning it with your brush. Be prepared to break a couple decals. But this isn't a problem really, so long as you line the pieces up perfectly. Let the decal dry at least overnight, and once it's dry apply a coat or two of Testor's dulcote spray. This does a few things. Most importantly it protects the decal and prevents it from being chipped/broken. But also, the flat finish gets rid of that terrible shine that you normally see on decals. This is vital important in giving the decal that painted-on look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icallitsoda Posted July 31, 2009 Author Share Posted July 31, 2009 Another thing to mention about these guys... they are all recycled marines or "paint-over" marines, because I got them for next to nothing. In other words, most of them already had a few coats of random paint on them when I started. I haven't found an easy, effective way of removing paint off plastics. I've tried simple green many times... it's just too much work/mess and doesn't really seem to work well enough to make me happy, even when I soak them for weeks or give them a few rounds of cleaning. Anyway, the result is that there's so many layers of paint on some of these guys that detail begins to get obscurred. The next 5 marines were also recycled. After that though, I'm only working with unpainted models. :huh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironjens Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 That yellow is totally lovely, you're obviously a master of this time consuming past time called miniature painting... Recycling is both environment conscious and cheap :) Keep up the good work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icallitsoda Posted July 31, 2009 Author Share Posted July 31, 2009 Here's shots of the next 5 marines in progress. They complete the 10 man squad. They're about 75% done. There's lots of little details and highlights that need to be finished up. These two are the closest to being finished. You can see the Sunburst Yellow glaze highlighting: http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/maxh/IMG_0557.jpg I did a tiny bit of modelling on this guy. I'm not sure if I like the end result, but at least he's a bit more unique: http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/maxh/IMG_0556.jpg Here's some group shots of all 5 of 'em. You might notice I added a bunch of purity seals (which aren't done): http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/maxh/IMG_0551.jpghttp://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/maxh/IMG_0555.jpghttp://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/maxh/IMG_0550.jpghttp://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/maxh/IMG_0554.jpg I apologize that the pics aren't that bright. It's a pretty cloudy day over here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ikik Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 very nice tone of yellow and I realy clean job, you can realy be proud of these guys ^_^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramell Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 I love your yellow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Toddius Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Beatifully done IF's. This is one of the most difficult paint jobs to do well and you've made your way down the correct path. I'm impressed. ;) Keep going :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metal Apostle Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 That yellow is great man, not too bright, but not too dull either :tu: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother 'Ussell Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 Perfectly coloured IF! doing more or just one squad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CosmicCreations Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 Another thing to mention about these guys... they are all recycled marines or "paint-over" marines, because I got them for next to nothing. In other words, most of them already had a few coats of random paint on them when I started. I haven't found an easy, effective way of removing paint off plastics. I've tried simple green many times... it's just too much work/mess and doesn't really seem to work well enough to make me happy, even when I soak them for weeks or give them a few rounds of cleaning. Anyway, the result is that there's so many layers of paint on some of these guys that detail begins to get obscurred. The next 5 marines were also recycled. After that though, I'm only working with unpainted models. :P Non Acetone nail varnish remover! It's a God send! I bought some after the reccomendations on here and it strips plastics of paint in a matte of seconds, a good old tooth brush to get the hard bits and then a wash in water and good as new ^_^ Great Models too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icallitsoda Posted August 2, 2009 Author Share Posted August 2, 2009 Non Acetone nail varnish remover! It's a God send! Hmm, I'll have to try that. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icallitsoda Posted August 25, 2009 Author Share Posted August 25, 2009 Wow, acetone free nail polish remover works GREAT for removing paint from plastic (and metal) models. The paint falls right off, with no damage to the plastic. Way, way better than simple green. CAUTION: Do not let your plastics sit in the acetone free nail polish remover for more than a couple minutes! Eventually, the plastic does begin to melt. But if you only let them sit in there a couple minutes (ie. 2-3), it works perfectly. :) Great tip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.