Teknomancer Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 try this. get a drinks can and cut it open (watch fingers this can cut you!) fold edges over with pliers to make safe. then, using the required size of drill bit, drill holes in the can panel, the more the merrier. then, get a piece of plastic frame and heat it until it melts. push this through the holes in your can panel and allow to cool. when cool, cut the rivets off with a knife. then glue to model. larger rivets can be trimmed with a knife to look like bolts. i got this one from a modelling book years ago and never forgot. sorry cant post any pictures, haven't got a way to put them on my machine at the mo. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/140404-modelling-rivet-basics/page/2/#findComment-1233952 Share on other sites More sharing options...
the jimster Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 how do you make rivets for tank armour its just i have build all these scrtach built tanks but i need rivits and green stuff aintdoing it for me Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/140404-modelling-rivet-basics/page/2/#findComment-1622082 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iacton Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 Try this tutorial >> RON SAIKOWSKI STYLE RIVETS Â Easy as you like, and you can make them as big or small as you want Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/140404-modelling-rivet-basics/page/2/#findComment-1622111 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Nihm Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 Behold, the search function. :rolleyes: Â link link Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/140404-modelling-rivet-basics/page/2/#findComment-1622130 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabriel Tal Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 I don't have steady hands anymore so I have had to find alternatives for a lot of things. I use straight pins. No sanding since they are already rounded. I drill a small hole the size of the pin shaft and glue them in. You can generally find them of different sizes. The added benefit is that once you have snipped off the heads you have pins for pinning. :D I'm actually surprised nobody else has ever discovered or mentioned it. :D Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/140404-modelling-rivet-basics/page/2/#findComment-1622816 Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianBlessed Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 Ah little blobs of glue, its so simple. Nice one Nihm. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/140404-modelling-rivet-basics/page/2/#findComment-1624672 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Aristeo Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 Follow this link to Grandt Line Products. About a third of the way down there are some rivets listed. Just send them an email and let them know what you want, where to send it, and your Credit Card number and it'll show up in a few weeks. I think they're great. Here's an example using the 0.032" dia Round Head rivets on the helmet and the 0.043" dia Round Head rivets on the legs.  http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/jasperjarvis/029.jpg  If you need rivets smaller than these, I suggest green stuff. I'm in the process of adding the final rivets to this model which are smaller than the ones on the head. They're the small size that are on the gauntlet. I know it's a pain, but if done correctly it looks good. I got this method from Gnawer a while back (thanks Gnawer!). He made some great Luna Wolves and had a tutorial which is no longer available online. Here is a quick version of his method:  http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/jasperjarvis/040.jpg  Take a piece of plastic sprue and cut out a straight piece about 3 or 4 inches long. Trim one end of it into a cone shape, just like on a wooden pencil. Trim the very tip flat and take a tiny drill bit and drill out a small hole in the end. This should be the size that you want your rivets.  http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/jasperjarvis/041-1.jpg  http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t236/jasperjarvis/042-1.jpg  Mix up a little green stuff and pinch a tiny bit off and place it where you want your rivet. Take your rivet tool and dip the business end in some vegetable oil (or whatever you have handy) and wipe the excess oil off on a tissue. Carefully push the tool into the little blob of green stuff and twist it and remove. You should have a nice little rivet in the middle, and you can remove the excess green stuff from around it carefully. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/140404-modelling-rivet-basics/page/2/#findComment-1625270 Share on other sites More sharing options...
the jimster Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 cheers i might give this one ago it seems pretty simple  jim Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/140404-modelling-rivet-basics/page/2/#findComment-1625450 Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZsaZsaRasputin Posted July 13, 2008 Share Posted July 13, 2008 Whenever you have any excess putty, I tend to roll it into differing sizes of balls. Once the putty's cured, you can cut these in half and glue them on - the smaller ones are a bit fiddly, but a pair of tweezers should suffice - just use the smallest blob of superglue though, otherwise it can slide out of position and set very quickly :/ Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/140404-modelling-rivet-basics/page/2/#findComment-1627824 Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygorn Posted July 22, 2008 Share Posted July 22, 2008 I was struggling with this problem too, but I solved it by a trip to my local arts and crafts supplier: Get a paper hole punch which makes circular holes (the ones which punch individual holes...the regular hole punches for stationery are just way too big) and get the smallest one they have -I think the one I have is somewhere between 0.5mm to 2mm, but not sure- then take any piece of cardboard (cereal packets are great for this) and punch to your heart's content. This size is great for stuff like pots and pans (I'm in the middle of doing an Ogre Butcher's kitchen, complete with oven, etc) as well as vehicles and you can easily get hundreds of rivets out of just half the top of one cereal box. The added bonus is that they don't seem to warp when you paint them (maybe 'cos they're too dense?) and every rivet is exactly the same shape and size, so it looks like it's been properly manufactured (e.g. Adeptus Mechanicus / Forge World / etc). Â Alternatively, if you are doing rivets on something like the 'extra armour' plates vehicle upgrade, use thin plasticard as the plates and carefully make indentations on the reverse (i.e. the glued side which will face the tank)...to me, this is more reminiscent of the studded Marine armour (Mark 5?) where you can see that it represents 2 pieces of armour put together, but where it looks like it has been properly made and where you don't want to make it look like an Ork has just nailed it together. Â For larger rivets (e.g. structures and other bigger pieces of kit), some of the sprues actually have circular spots on them which you can just cut off and use; although they will be exactly circular, it will be harder to get them exactly the same thickness (if you're bothered about stuff like this). Â I hope that this helps? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/140404-modelling-rivet-basics/page/2/#findComment-1637614 Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygorn Posted July 22, 2008 Share Posted July 22, 2008 I was struggling with this problem too, but I solved it by a trip to my local arts and crafts supplier: Get a paper hole punch which makes circular holes (the ones which punch individual holes...the regular hole punches for stationery are just way too big) and get the smallest one they have -I think the one I have is somewhere between 0.5mm to 2mm, but not sure- then take any piece of cardboard (cereal packets are great for this) and punch to your heart's content. This size is great for stuff like pots and pans (I'm in the middle of doing an Ogre Butcher's kitchen, complete with oven, etc) as well as vehicles and you can easily get hundreds of rivets out of just half the top of one cereal box. The added bonus is that they don't seem to warp when you paint them (maybe 'cos they're too dense?) and every rivet is exactly the same shape and size, so it looks like it's been properly manufactured (e.g. Adeptus Mechanicus / Forge World / etc). Â Alternatively, if you are doing rivets on something like the 'extra armour' plates vehicle upgrade, use thin plasticard as the plates and carefully make indentations on the reverse (i.e. the glued side which will face the tank)...to me, this is more reminiscent of the studded Marine armour (Mark 5?) where you can see that it represents 2 pieces of armour put together, but where it looks like it has been properly made and where you don't want to make it look like an Ork has just nailed it together. Â I hope that this helps? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/140404-modelling-rivet-basics/page/2/#findComment-1637617 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cry Havok Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 I had an idea on making rivets today, which was inspired when trying to fill knicks in a shoulder pad. So I fill the gap and it just sorta falls out once it dries, so I thought maybe if you drill a hole where you want a rivet, fill with GS and push out however long it might work, if not you still just filled up the hole you made *shrug* Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/140404-modelling-rivet-basics/page/2/#findComment-1641177 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full-choke Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 I took a fantasy standard pole and took my hobby knife to it and slowly cut even little pieces and glued them on, looked real good when I got done. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/140404-modelling-rivet-basics/page/2/#findComment-1647151 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Donute Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 the aforementioned method of using tacky glue works fantastically for me. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/140404-modelling-rivet-basics/page/2/#findComment-1647953 Share on other sites More sharing options...
River Black Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 Go to your local art store and look in the scrap book section. You can buy a 1/16-hole punch for about 5 bucks. You can mass-produce rivets like a mad man and with great ease. They will all be the same diameter and height. If you want them to be flat to the tank use a thin sheet of plastic card. If your want it more raised up just use a thicker sheet. I made a stormblade conversion for my banebalde and using these rivets and i think it turned out quite well. Â http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/8583/banebladetopnn5.jpg Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/140404-modelling-rivet-basics/page/2/#findComment-1654129 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabriel Tal Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 I use straight pins for sewing. a pack of 100 is about $1 and you can find them with various sized heads. Drill a hole the sixe of the pin an push it in witha little glue. If you clip the pin off you now have pins for pinning. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/140404-modelling-rivet-basics/page/2/#findComment-1655874 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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