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LunchBox's WIP's


LunchBox

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That is truly a work of art, as are all your mini's.

 

Your painting is an inspiration at that same time it is humbling, to know that even someone as good as you feels there is room for improvement.

 

Stubby.

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That is truly a work of art, as are all your mini's.

 

Your painting is an inspiration at that same time it is humbling, to know that even someone as good as you feels there is room for improvement.

 

Stubby.

 

 

Thanks! Any painter who doesn't think there's room for improvement either doesn't think, or doesn't paint.

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The cloak is ace, mate.

 

Shame it looks like you painted the rest with finger paints... ^_^

 

 

 

Joking, of course. Lovely painting, great scheme, just the model.....

 

But you know that, so I'm flogging a dead horse.

 

Get back to your bare heads!! ;)

 

Have you decided on your GD entries now? I apologise if I've skim read this and missed it...

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The cloak is ace, mate.

 

Shame it looks like you painted the rest with finger paints... :lol:

 

 

 

Joking, of course. Lovely painting, great scheme, just the model.....

 

But you know that, so I'm flogging a dead horse.

 

Get back to your bare heads!! ;)

 

Have you decided on your GD entries now? I apologise if I've skim read this and missed it...

 

Thanks...I'm taking a break from GD this year...just painting for fun, and playing with some new ideas. I have a few concepts brewing for GD 2010.

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Oh...I meant to ask...and it's hard for me to tell since I'm the motor on the brush. Has the "chalky" look diminished much? It looks to me that I've come a long way in smoothing that out over the last 8 months or so...I'd love to know what you think.

 

Also, prepare thyself for update-overload this Sunday.

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Oh...I meant to ask...and it's hard for me to tell since I'm the motor on the brush. Has the "chalky" look diminished much? It looks to me that I've come a long way in smoothing that out over the last 8 months or so...I'd love to know what you think..

 

I would say that the chalky problem has diminished considerably with the Vulkan model and the libby looks like it too. Using more saturated colours prolly has a bearing on this, as opposed to your more "regular" purple/grey livery on your other marines. It's not something to lose entirely, because it is something that somewhat defines your "style", just harness it to your advantage :tu:

The only thing I noticed as far as painting was concerned was some slight issues with the colour transitions in the brass/gold NMM on the later WIP stuff - particularly the top of the rim on the "flame" shoulder pad. I can't tell if you've fixed that with the later photos cos either the pics are smaller or the angles are wrong.

 

The green was drum tight and the libby blue is getting there.

 

Self edit:- Just looked at the Cortez (yucky yuck sculpt - must sell my one SOON before I'm tempted to even convert it to paint!!) model and there is a distinct lack of chalky!! :tu:

(Oh, and the NMM on that sword is something I'm deeply envious of. I just can't get transitions right - particularly blue ones like that - to my own satisfaction...)

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Iacton:

 

I think the "problem" has fallen off some. The color choices and such could be considered my "style", but the chalkiness was due to me not applying enough layers in the middle tones. I've been concentrating on working the middle more, and as a result, some of the contrast has fallen off...something else I need to work on. As for the gold...the He'Stan model was a challenge. Gold NMM is one of my staples, and this model gave me fits. Most all of the gold trim had to be spot-stripped and repainted. In fact, the right shoulder pad had to be redone 3 times...I literally spent about 6 hours on that one shoulder pad. The gold armor plates on his waist had to be redone...and I mean down to sanding the primer off...4 times. I think my spray primer tanked me on that one. None of the colors would 'stick'. I also ralized one of my good brushes is about finished...it keeps depositing trash in the paint, and I've cleaned it numerous times.

 

Also, before you get excited about trying to sell that model on Ebay or something, PM me...I think I might like to give that model another go, but this time with a head swap. So, I might be interested in picking that up from you.

 

MCA:

 

I would love to get back to the store at some point...for sure over the summer. But...it's only about 6 weeks from ReaperCon, and I'm teaching a class (on urban basing...who'da thunk it :) ), and still haven't painted anything for the comp...which I'm not too concerned with...probably won't enter anything. I might enter some PA'd stuff, since they changed the format to "open", but I haven't decided yet.

 

This summer, I'll start my GD entries for 2010 Chicago.

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Cool beans. PM me if and when you might want it - and any other items from the Iacton wares emporium! :blush: - I'll keep him in the box at the back of the cupboard so that his face doesn't make me sick! :blink:

Any time is fine by me.

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I think the "problem" has fallen off some. The color choices and such could be considered my "style", but the chalkiness was due to me not applying enough layers in the middle tones. I've been concentrating on working the middle more, and as a result, some of the contrast has fallen off...something else I need to work on. As for the gold...the He'Stan model was a challenge. Gold NMM is one of my staples, and this model gave me fits. Most all of the gold trim had to be spot-stripped and repainted. In fact, the right shoulder pad had to be redone 3 times...I literally spent about 6 hours on that one shoulder pad. The gold armor plates on his waist had to be redone...and I mean down to sanding the primer off...4 times. I think my spray primer tanked me on that one. None of the colors would 'stick'. I also ralized one of my good brushes is about finished...it keeps depositing trash in the paint, and I've cleaned it numerous times.

 

Hey lunchbox...do you use paint on primer when you spot-strip/repaint? how do you reapply primer when spot stripping? thanks!

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I think the "problem" has fallen off some. The color choices and such could be considered my "style", but the chalkiness was due to me not applying enough layers in the middle tones. I've been concentrating on working the middle more, and as a result, some of the contrast has fallen off...something else I need to work on. As for the gold...the He'Stan model was a challenge. Gold NMM is one of my staples, and this model gave me fits. Most all of the gold trim had to be spot-stripped and repainted. In fact, the right shoulder pad had to be redone 3 times...I literally spent about 6 hours on that one shoulder pad. The gold armor plates on his waist had to be redone...and I mean down to sanding the primer off...4 times. I think my spray primer tanked me on that one. None of the colors would 'stick'. I also ralized one of my good brushes is about finished...it keeps depositing trash in the paint, and I've cleaned it numerous times.

 

Hey lunchbox...do you use paint on primer when you spot-strip/repaint? how do you reapply primer when spot stripping? thanks!

 

 

That's a very good question. I do in fact use a paint on primer; RMS White Primer. I apply a few even coats, and then have to work backwards; I go light to dark, then back up to light again, instead of starting in the middle, and working both directions.

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Nice looking paintjob on him. I would have to agree with the aforementioned comments the 'chalkiness' has diminished but I am not sure how much of that is an artifact of changing colors away from some of the more desaturated schemes you have done in the past and how much of it is technique. I see what you mean about a decrease in contrast as well, if I recollect your style correctly you use many thin coats and use them as a filter while letting the white primer create part of the highlighting. Obviously also doing further shading and highlights as well. But by building up the midtones more to decrease this chalky primer effect the contrast is being lost that was generated by opacity before and now is more reliant on saturation. Then again I haven't eaten today and just got out of a long day of lectures and am about to read some research papers so I may be thinking unclearly and way off base :)

 

Basing looks great as usual and something that people might undervalue in your minis. One question though have you ever considered moving away from the 'half scene' where the back portion of the base is merely a black side to include a 360 degree base where it is a scene from all angles. I understand having that back portion may allow you to create a darker atmosphere under the floor surface by preventing light entering that side but I guess I was just thinking of a more creative option to not have one portion be a large black surface. Again this may just be rambling so ignore as you please, perhaps it is just my aesthetic preference to not have large flat null areas on a base and I understand some like that look.

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Hey Gumba...you lost me on the first paragraph...sorry. Part of that, however, could be the fact that it's after 3:30, and today is our Friday (3 day weekend), so my brain just naturally shut down.

 

As for the basing...I'm not sure I follow you. I've only done the b(l)ack-fill method on a couple of minis...He'Stan being one of them. Normally, my bases are 360...at least I should say, I finish them out all the way around.

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I am not sure I follow myself now that I read it I was focused on two different things and didn't have a good train of thought. Basically

 

-Chalkiness resolved, but perhaps sacrificing contrast and depth of color.

-However is reduction in chalky appearance due more to a change in color palette, process, or some of each

-I guess on this particular base I just felt it looked great from the front, but stark from the back since its just black. Maybe its just me, I just never liked the look of tall bases with extended black sides often seen in competition minis.

-I need to to start eating breakfast again ;)

 

I'm still not certain that sums it up or makes complete sense, I just rambled a bit before without making a point really. Anywho I'm off to read some papers as apparently my university doesn't have off for good friday ^_^

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They all look great of course. But if I had a critique is they are too clean. I'm not talking about the blends, I'm talking about the show room shine. Perhaps you should paint more grit, rust, dirt, battle damage, more realism. I know you've gone NMM and it is popular online though not so much in 'Eavy Metal team. Perhaps you should paint something evil, less goodie two shoes.

 

Just a thought.

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saturation doesnt really affect chalkiness, proof lies in automatons work, he uses some dull colours at times and highlights to pure white at times

 

its the actual technique, if you do not fully cover the primer, you will get a dusty effect as the primer shows through the paint

 

 

as for whether or not its improved, it is, but theres still room to continue

 

honestly, you are coming to a point where you are now being limited by the size of the pieces you are working on, to improve much more, you will likely have to up the scale to start involving larger surfaces, softer blends, texture and other applications...its also more fun i find working on something bigger

 

 

Alex

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Gumba: No worries...it's not my favorite way to base, but I like it for a change every once in a while.

 

Muskie: My thoughts on weathering can be found HERE

 

DarkH: Thanks...the NMM tut was canceled because Boltman's is really as good as it gets...it's what taught me.

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honestly, you are coming to a point where you are now being limited by the size of the pieces you are working on, to improve much more, you will likely have to up the scale to start involving larger surfaces, softer blends, texture and other applications...its also more fun i find working on something bigger

 

Honestly I prefer 54mm and busts as well from a modeling perspective. Love all that rich detail to be had!

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I could play around with some bigger stuff, but honestly right now, I'm just kicked back, enjoying painting my personal army. It's been nice to take a bit of a break. Oh...Pez...I saw you resurface in the WIP section...welcome back, chickie.
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This is sort of for my own clarification, as my artistic vocabulary isn't very well developed so I find it hard sometimes to communicate as effectively as I am used to. I understand that the chalky effect is a result of primer showing through the paint but wouldn't certain colors be more prone to this than others? Like wouldn't a greyish purple have a greater tendency or display this effect as opposed to say a bright yellow. Or is it just misperception on my part that since an initial color might be more muted it is also more prone to a chalky finish.

 

I guess I just assume that with colors like perhaps a greyish blue or purple that one might rely more on the primer showing through to create a base for highlights and thus make it more likely to have a dusty appearance. As opposed to red where there is such range of color to create contrast from a dark color to a more orange color that doesn't rely on transparency over a white primer as much.

 

Maybe I am just way off base and missing it, artistic endeavors aren't my forte so maybe I am just overthinking it really more than is needed and confusing reality of the situation.

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This is sort of for my own clarification, as my artistic vocabulary isn't very well developed so I find it hard sometimes to communicate as effectively as I am used to. I understand that the chalky effect is a result of primer showing through the paint but wouldn't certain colors be more prone to this than others? Like wouldn't a greyish purple have a greater tendency or display this effect as opposed to say a bright yellow. Or is it just misperception on my part that since an initial color might be more muted it is also more prone to a chalky finish.

 

I guess I just assume that with colors like perhaps a greyish blue or purple that one might rely more on the primer showing through to create a base for highlights and thus make it more likely to have a dusty appearance. As opposed to red where there is such range of color to create contrast from a dark color to a more orange color that doesn't rely on transparency over a white primer as much.

 

Maybe I am just way off base and missing it, artistic endeavors aren't my forte so maybe I am just overthinking it really more than is needed and confusing reality of the situation.

 

well the more pasty or pastel a colour the more prone it is to looking chalky and lifeless because the closer it is to being colourless(which is lifeless, skin turns grey when it dies this is why it looks dead :)) and chalky is always associated with being white or greyed and lifeless blandish colour...the actual chalky texture is a result of the actual pigment, most often the primer

 

but being prone to it doesnt necessarily mean it will be chalky because you use a certain colour, it has a lot to do with application and the finish(matte, gloss, satin, etc) which is also affected by the application, because many times when blending people tend to rush, or not realize how many more layers are needed thus resulting in a less than smooth finish

 

that being said, using the actual white primer to highlight, is a varying technique...some actually keep the brightest as the white primer, or with some light layers of white over, some leave the white primer showing as they paint and then go over when they highlight, adding a bit of extra brightness to them, however still maintaining the same type of painting technique otherwise, and some cover completely, and re-highlight

 

@lunchie, i didnt mean right now fool! i mean i have nothing else to say really, its fine tuning, and then the next step is get bigger :P

 

 

Alex

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@lunchie, i didnt mean right now fool! i mean i have nothing else to say really, its fine tuning, and then the next step is get bigger :P

 

 

Alex

 

 

I ain't no fool...fool... :devil:

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