Jump to content

LunchBox's WIP's


LunchBox

Recommended Posts

The drill was a hand held cordless power drill. I used a drill bit a little larger (diameter) than the "neck" of a Marine head, which allowed me to position the head in accordance to the body movement.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

nice you are working on the squad ;)

 

its awkward that you gave him the banner backpack and a standard tho :(

 

army is coming along well tho!

 

 

Oh...I thought that was supposed to go on him...if it doesn't balance out well, I can always remove it, and slap it on another fig.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Work is amazing lunchbox.

 

When I try to use inks, or washes for that matter, it is hard to control it. It feels like water and it does what it wants. It is very hard to keep it where you want it, as well as trying to get it on highlights. The ink/wash seems to want to stay in the crevices as opposed to up top. Am I simply using too much at one time? Or do you have any tips for controlling the inks and washes while painting the model?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Work is amazing lunchbox.

 

When I try to use inks, or washes for that matter, it is hard to control it. It feels like water and it does what it wants. It is very hard to keep it where you want it, as well as trying to get it on highlights. The ink/wash seems to want to stay in the crevices as opposed to up top. Am I simply using too much at one time? Or do you have any tips for controlling the inks and washes while painting the model?

 

 

A lot of times...almost always, I start with my white primer, and start working to shade. For this, you do want some 'settling', as it will naturally dileniate your shadows. As you build your shades, you still add water, but touch the wet brush (with paint in it) onto a lint-free towel (an old T-shirt or thin boxers works). THis removes some of the water, but keeps the paint thinned. You also want to control where you're applying these darker washes or glazes...if you wash the entire area, you may as well have primed with your base color. After shades are built, you finish up by working up through your highlights. If you control your shades well, you won't have to spend hours trying to build highlights, as the area you're painting is already lighter than the shades. For the highlights, you want to get your paint and water into the brush, then remove that water again by touching it to a towel as mentioned before. Otherwise, your highlights are too watery, and it takes a ton of coats, as well as the increased likelyhood for tide lines.

 

did that make any sense?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Work is amazing lunchbox.

 

When I try to use inks, or washes for that matter, it is hard to control it. It feels like water and it does what it wants. It is very hard to keep it where you want it, as well as trying to get it on highlights. The ink/wash seems to want to stay in the crevices as opposed to up top. Am I simply using too much at one time? Or do you have any tips for controlling the inks and washes while painting the model?

 

 

You also want to control where you're applying these darker washes or glazes...if you wash the entire area, you may as well have primed with your base color.

 

There's some truth to this, but honestly I find that leaving too much white exposed for the 'highlight' can leave them looking dead. I'm going for a uniform coat, but allowing a little more to pool in the recesses. Not to excses mind you, but enough to increase saturation between the highlight and shadows. I sometimes get my light and color terms confused so I think I may be thinking of the relationship between hues and radiosity, but I could be mistaken. Speculars probably play a role in this too due to the material that the Armor is made out of.

 

Anyway thats my $0.02 rambling.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Work is amazing lunchbox.

 

When I try to use inks, or washes for that matter, it is hard to control it. It feels like water and it does what it wants. It is very hard to keep it where you want it, as well as trying to get it on highlights. The ink/wash seems to want to stay in the crevices as opposed to up top. Am I simply using too much at one time? Or do you have any tips for controlling the inks and washes while painting the model?

 

 

You also want to control where you're applying these darker washes or glazes...if you wash the entire area, you may as well have primed with your base color.

 

There's some truth to this, but honestly I find that leaving too much white exposed for the 'highlight' can leave them looking dead. I'm going for a uniform coat, but allowing a little more to pool in the recesses. Not to excses mind you, but enough to increase saturation between the highlight and shadows. I sometimes get my light and color terms confused so I think I may be thinking of the relationship between hues and radiosity, but I could be mistaken. Speculars probably play a role in this too due to the material that the Armor is made out of.

 

Anyway thats my $0.02 rambling.

True...to clarify, you don't want to leave the white showing...but it's ok to get an even coverage over it, with a lighter color, and allowing the rest to fall into the shadows. This was a big problem I was having last year...not covering over the white primer well enough...thus the "chalky" effect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I guess it's time to get started on Golden Demon stuff for 2010. So, with the help of Jeremie Bonomant, here's a wip of the first of a squad. I'm going to use the five converted Vanguards as my 40K Squad entry, but more importantly as practice for some of the techniques Jeremie shared, and will share all weekend.

 

The main differences were that my basecoat was too thin, bleeding out my color. Also, I wasn't exaggerating my highlights enough. Another thing he pointed out, was to sharpen the highlights on parts of the legs, like the knee, to help convey movement. I wish I had taken a before shot.

 

On the mini itself, the legs are complete, and the arms are close to finished. the sword is shaded with the exception of a few nuances.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/gd1040ksq1.jpg

 

<edit> I guess I should add that the actual lighting is neutral...the mini is painted with zenithal lighting techniques to appear that the light is sourced from a particular direction.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What is the new technique that Jeremie is teaching you?

 

Also, the gold on the shoulder trim might be a bit too intense/bright. The corner closest to his face draws the eye more than I suspect you want it to. It might be that in person this isn't such an issue, but right now it seems to be pretty distracting to my eye.

 

e:Awesome stuff as usual :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i second the gold being a tad bright...maybe a green wash on that to tone it down a lil...jeremies stuff is amazin...some of the guys from my LGS went to his clinic in atlanta (?) 2 years ago and their stuff went thru the roof, little changes and subtle differences in the euro painting to our style here make a world of difference. 1 guy from the shop who went to that clinic won gold in baltimore last weekend for his kroot piece....

best of lluck lunch...i know jason is plannin some nice stuff for chicago:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking very nice I look forward to seeing this progress as always. My only question though is which color is the mini? In the photos the pictures diagonal from each other appear to look the same but different from the other pair of diagonal pictures. I assume the bottom right one is closer to the true color.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Amazing paint jobs LunchBox. I have one question for you. I love the two bases you have made for the gamesday 08 minis. How do you get a stable basing for the model seeing as there is little to no surface area to use for attaching, especially with metal feet. Do you use a standard base and sculpt around it? I am using the body of that model and making a custom Ragnar Blackmane and want a dynamic base but usually use rocks to set up a scenic piece. Any ideas?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Wow...I guess I should check in more often...sorry. The models are pinned to the bases...keep them on nice and tight. I pin my WIPs to an old paint pot or something, so the pin-hole is already there when it's time to attach to the base.

 

Here's a WIP shot of the smurf I'm doing for some quick cash. Nothing serious, I just wanted to work on my blends. The back of the cape, and the exposed knee are not finished.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/ucapwip1-1.jpg

 

I'll get out some shots of the army progress (such as it is) soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.