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LunchBox's WIP's


LunchBox

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Alright. First of all, congrats on your demons. Very well deserved, fantastic looking minis. Can’t comment much on those other than :P because A) my technique and style differs some from yours and B ) well, to be honest, you’re beyond my skills painting minis anyway.

 

However, I do think I could give you some advice on your freehand. As always, this is not my spoken language so you have to forgive that if there’s anything you can’t understand. Also, as I get the feeling you’re one of those guys that really wants to learn and improve, I hope you’re ok with me handing out some general tips. Right?

 

First, I think it’s good you’re taking a painterly approach to the artwork. By painterly I mean using fields of colour to build up shapes and staying away from linear work more suitable for drawing. So there is a no-no to drawing lines or outlining things as there is a rather big difference between painting and drawing, at least if you’re aiming for a sort classic kind of artwork instead of, let’s say, a more comic book kind of style. You do however have a very few such things going on with that banner, like around the sword, and those should be gotten rid of to work in your favour.

 

Whenever painting or drawing, one have to think of things as a unity. A torso forms one mass for example, and when putting a neck in the middle, (or whatever object in the space in front of an object lying behind) the shoulders need to connect in a natural way to each other.* I’m not entirely sure that’s the case with your arm holding the cup, but it may be the cloth that’s fooling me. Also, you might need to work a little with the proportions. Size of the hands, hips etc.

 

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p35/tjuven52/lunchbox.jpg

 

Contrast is just as important when painting a picture as it is with minis. In general, painting consists of laying contrasting colours next to each other (light vs dark, cold vs warm). A true master, probably one of the greatest and most technically skill full artist in history at this was the very famous 17th century Jan Vermeer van Delft. Given, his paintings are boring as hell, but they’re just bloody awesome technically. Just look at how he constantly worked with contrast between the colours. A lot can be learned about painting just by looking at his artwork. Look especially at the white area contrasting against the sitting woman’s shoulder, head and the painting on the wall. Just beautiful, and it’s those kind of things that can really make a painting ‘pop’. With your banner, it needs a lot more contrast, otherwise it may look flat and like it doesn’t belong to the same mini.

 

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p35/tjuven52/Vermeer.jpg

 

 

Seeing as how much your mini-painting has improved into demon-winning standard, I have no doubt that with a lot of patience and practise you can take the freehand aspect of painting motives on banners etc to the same heights. Hope this didn’t come off as harsh in any way as I’m a big fan of your work. Cheers!

 

* Unless you’re making a point by it like for example Paul Cézanne who was experimenting a lot with perspective (kubism is originated from his work). His point is that the sort of stiff almost mathematic way the laws of perspective is composed the eye needs to be locked on a fixed point with total focus all over, and that’s not how our human eye work in real life as we constantly shift the point of focus and therefore also the perspective. Hence, in some of his paintings the perspective constantly shifts, a bowl could be seen from above and the side in the same time. Yeah…off topic, I know.

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I've noticed that a lot of talented painters tend to use the RMS paints. Are these paints that much better than the other "good" paints (GW, P3, Vallejo), that I should be replacing my current paint collection?
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Well since Lunchbox isn't on currently, I'm sure he's feeding the horses. :D

I just recently started using RMS paints after sitting down with Lunchbox and Starks in Chicago. I really like them, and they have some great colours, but for Metallics, I think we agreed, Games Workshop is one of the best. I'm sure he can shed more light into RMS colours though!

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I've noticed that a lot of talented painters tend to use the RMS paints. Are these paints that much better than the other "good" paints (GW, P3, Vallejo), that I should be replacing my current paint collection?

 

 

In short, NO.

 

I posted this in response to a similar question in the tutorial thread:

 

"RMS paints do have a learning curve...the first few hours I used them, I didn't like them at all, but once I figured them out, I loved them. The "breaking down" was a problem they had with the base for early batches, and they have corrected it now. The other nice thing is they will (generally) happily exchange any colors that do not perform. The color selection is very good; I have personally have about 130 different colors of RMS, and about another 30-40 of various other brands. The RMS paints suit a certain pallet that some like, and some don't. GW paints are generally excellent, they just didn't suit my personal pallet tastes.

 

Like Starks said though...the brand of paint is not the key here, it's the technique. Although I love the RMS paints, I would not suggest that anyone run out and replace their entire selection, especially based off one online tutorial. If you like, browse their colors, and order a few colors, or a triad you like...play with them, and see what you think.

 

As for the metallics...GW is the best, and every other paint manufacturer knows it...and most will freely admit it!"

 

Starks is right on about their color range...even their really bright aqua triad is still somewhat 'muted'. I like this because it fits my personal style, and because I'm too lazy to do the research and experimentation on how to create these colors with GW's retina-popping color selection. Instead of adding certain colors to desaturate, like you'd have to do with GW, RMS paints assume you want desaturated colors, and you can brighten them if you like.

 

AJ: Yes, I was out feeding horses. Yesterday, I got on the 2 year old mare for the first time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*I lasted a good 15 seconds.

 

Good thing I get my wisdom teeth out tomorrow...maybe that'll take my mind off the other aches and pains. When you get older, the ground gets harder, and farther away.

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Congrats on the Mare! :P

Bet she's hell on your knees though!

Good luck with the wisdom teeth, I got another long work day thanks to the stupid company! haha

 

 

Yeah...I landed right on my knees... :lol:

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Congrats on the Mare! :)

Bet she's hell on your knees though!

Good luck with the wisdom teeth, I got another long work day thanks to the stupid company! haha

 

 

Yeah...I landed right on my knees... ;)

 

 

ahhh the position you know so well :)

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wow,i just noticed your that dude who won the daemons at the games day event.in my opinion your work was way better then

the people you where up against.top notch artist.is there anyway you can do a tutorial on your nmm gold.whats your secret?

itsl clean and realistic.

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I can't help but just marvel at the results you get with pigmets and water. And after reading your tutorial, I'm even more impressed that you glaze your way into those results.

 

But I have to say, perhaps it is just the camera, but any place you apply your highlighting glaze, it comes out very chalky to me. In the tut it was less noticable, but on the UM the contrast is too great and it looks less like light spilling over onto his chest and more like he's been sanding drywall all day.

 

I wonder if you could get more of the original hue into highlight on his chest?

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I can't help but just marvel at the results you get with pigmets and water. And after reading your tutorial, I'm even more impressed that you glaze your way into those results.

 

But I have to say, perhaps it is just the camera, but any place you apply your highlighting glaze, it comes out very chalky to me. In the tut it was less noticable, but on the UM the contrast is too great and it looks less like light spilling over onto his chest and more like he's been sanding drywall all day.

 

I wonder if you could get more of the original hue into highlight on his chest?

 

 

The UM is a bit over-blown in the chest...I agree. I went back in and glazed more blues in to knock it down a bit. I'm still working on the chalkiness thing...a lot of it was due to not enough layers of "basecoat".

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Here's a little more work on the Ultra...the fist still needs a good 20 more coats or so to smooth it out, but I've got the general color placement that I want now:

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/aureliuswipfist.jpg

 

And here's a little more work on the Veteran for my own collection:

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/newschemewipleg.jpg

 

 

 

 

Coming up pretty soon, will be an all-out blitz of me painting stuff up for Ebay...this thread is not intended as a running advertizement, but I just wanted to give ya'll a heads up before fielding questions like "what are you painting that for?". I have an oop Chaplain, an Ultra Marine Honor Guard Veteran, and I'm going to be converting the hell out of a Dark Angels Chaplain, and Space Wolf Veteran. These will all be coming up in the next couple of months and are aimed at getting practice in other colors I don't noramally paint; blue, black, green, blue-gray. These projects will run in conjunction with the expansion of my personal army.

 

I'll also be starting a Salamander Veteran, using the Games Day 2008 model for a friend of mine...I've been wanting to paint a Sallie!

 

There's some other stuff I need to finish up as well, but it's not board appropriate.

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I finished Aurelius...I got so frustrated with the pitted, and uneven cast, that I rushed the finish just to get him done, so I can get rid of him. So, he looks alright, but not to the best of my abilities.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/AureliusComplete-1.jpg

 

 

This next one is an oop Chaplain that I wanted to try and speed paint. I'd like to keep this one down to 5 hours or less. This is a little over 2 hours worth of work, and I just started the arms:

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/oopchapwip-1.jpg

 

 

And finally, some more work on the piece I'm taking my sweet time on; I've been slowly working on the legs, and still have some finishing out to do, but they are nearing completion:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/newlegswip.jpg

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More work on the Chaplain - another 3 hours last night, and he's almost done. The model itself is done except for the crappy freehand on the right shoulder pad that I have to re-do. The back pack and the base should occupy about an hour, so I'll miss my 5 hour mark, but not by too much.

 

*side note: when I got this model in a bitz lot auction, I hated it...it's actually turned out to be a pretty cool little sculpt and model, aside from the massively out of proportion left hand and head.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/oopchapwip2-1.jpg

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That chaplain looks stunning! :)

 

I really like it as a sculpt. I see what you mean about the left hand - I'd never noticed that before - but I think the head is awesome ;) bearing in mind it has a human head, plus apparatus, room for him to breathe... it's probably the nearest I think GW have gotten to getting it right (in a realistic sense)

 

I love the earthy white on the shoulder pads. Is it a ball-ache repairing free-hand on glazes (assuming this is glazed...? Looks like it)?

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Yeah...I can tell you have this model, because only someone who's painted it would know the breather part of marine helmet is tucked under the skull.

 

I really do like this sculpt as well...I don't know why it just grew on me. It has some nice details without being over the top, and besides the hand, this mini has very pleasant lines.

 

As to your question, I used a few glazes here and there, but most of this is washes.

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