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LunchBox's WIP's


LunchBox

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Here's a new one I've started along with the other stuff I'm working on. I'm doing this one for a friend of mine who wanted the GD08 model tweaked to make him a Salamander. The model will remain relatively stock, except the right shoulder pad will be converted with a sculpted Sallie on it, and I decided against the "Gomer Pyle" head that it came with. I spent 3 hours prepping just the main body. The lower half was pretty good out of the box, but the upper half was shifted leaving a mould line in one spot the was the thickness of a hobby knife blade. It took a lot of reshaping, and "massaging" with 600 grit wet/dry paper, but he turned out nice and smooth.

 

I started on the painting last night, and spent about 3 hours on the head...the green is (obviously) just basecoat work.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/salliewip1-1.jpg

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I got some more work done last night...actually, until about 3:30 this morning. I got a lot of the shading done except for the darkest shading, and the only place I highlighted was the torso. I still have a little more to do on the green part of the torso, but it's nearly done. I also mocked up the arm that will be across his chest to place my chest eagle highlights.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/salliewip2-1.jpg

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i like the green its kinda grey which look ausome in my opinion

the lighting is excellent - as usual!! - although the source does seem to change slightly, only slightly and it may just be that im looking at it from the wrong angle (dont get me wrong it looks ausome but if your practising perfecting things like this i thought i would point it out):

the aquila seems brighter on the left side where as most other things seem to have dimmed slightly, where as the face mask doesnt brighten on the far left

 

i like the wires they have a sorta chalky colour rather than metalicy or shiny like most people (myself included) paint them!! makes it look more realistic

 

what weapons are you giving him? oh and will he have a scaly cloak or any scaly parts?

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i like the green its kinda grey which look ausome in my opinion

the lighting is excellent - as usual!! - although the source does seem to change slightly, only slightly and it may just be that im looking at it from the wrong angle (dont get me wrong it looks ausome but if your practising perfecting things like this i thought i would point it out):

the aquila seems brighter on the left side where as most other things seem to have dimmed slightly, where as the face mask doesnt brighten on the far left

 

i like the wires they have a sorta chalky colour rather than metalicy or shiny like most people (myself included) paint them!! makes it look more realistic

 

what weapons are you giving him? oh and will he have a scaly cloak or any scaly parts?

 

The green is Snot Green, mixed with RMS Nightshade Purple to progressively darken. The highlights are Snot Green mixed with RMS Palomino Gold, then mixed with RMS Ghost Gray at the top. I originally found a Dark Elf Cold One Rider cape I was going to use, but after getting it fitted up, it didn't quite look right. Also, this friend of mine wants this mini to be a leader, but not the "big dog" with the mantle. As for weapons, I was going to use the Masters of the Chapter hammer arm, and put a combi-melta in the left hand...but I think I'll just stick with the original 2-handed hammer...we want the fig to still resemble the GD08 model, and not look like a total conversion...unless he changes his mind. :yes:

 

 

how do you paint the gold on the weapons and things

 

Hi LW...welcome to the B&C! I'll be doing a gold NMM tutorial probably sometime this month, and I'll post the link in this thread.

 

Thanks!

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Great work Lunchbox.

 

Yep... Well wish I had some criticism to give but I don't.

 

Sorry I haven't been around to comment to your works, my laptop is comatose and in need of professional work. On a friends comp right now...

 

Keep it up man and good luck with the schooling.

 

=]D[=

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It's really nice to see the always crisp photos of your WIP's. Really helps to spur creative experimentation as it's easy to make out color variation and the amount of contrast you've gone for. I'll be keeping this green in mind as I move forward with 'other' green models ^_-. Yes, I'm moving away from grey yet again!

 

I'm really looking forward to seeing your take on a Gold nmm tut. I think of all the gold I've seen, yours really gives the effect I like the most.

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Great work in this thread lunchbox!

One question, what colours did you use to shade the blue on the ultras in this thread?

Keep up the geat work! ;)

 

 

Hey Aquilla...I'll have to get back to you on that one...I need to dig around on my painting table to see what it was I used. I can tell you they were done with 2 different successions of different colors. The GD model was straight blues, and the honor guard was blue-greens.

 

Here's what else I've been working on...

 

More progress on my own GD08 model. The metallics are turning out ok, except I spent 2 hours on the sword, and it seemed to get worse as the minutes ticked by...thus I have cropped it out...it stinks that bad. (I hate metallics) The golds were done using the same GW Chainmail base, but glazed with ochres, greens, browns, purples, reds, and black:

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/newwipad-1.jpg

 

 

I started this guy between coats on the other guys. I think I'm going to move my army to this color scheme, because I like the way the guy (above) is turning out...except the d@mn metallics:

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/eswip1.jpg

 

I picked this little fella up last week, and started tinkering around with him...figured I'd do a Thousand Sons Lord. This one is just for grins:

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/chaoslordwip1.jpg

 

And finally, some bases I've been playing with. The one on the left is NMM, the one on the right is metallics. I've been through a number of different water effects, and cannot find a single one that will work right, even after multiple trials. The 2-part resin water never cures completely, and leaves a sticky, oozing mess. The shorter base was a test base using the "heat and pour" pellets. It sucks. The taller base was done with a floral water resin, that dries crystal clear, but has the consistency (once cured) of a 'bouncy ball'...so I can't sand it, or correct imperfections. Once more, it doesn't completely cure, and I have to hit it with 'Ard Coat to get it where I can touch it. After numerous discussions with fellow painters, we've come to the conclusion it's either a climate issue, or I'm an idiot.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/testbases-1.jpg

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Have you tried just using a bit more of the accelerator/hardener or how ever the component is called, even if it is a bit more than the manual says to use. It could be that you just use not enough or that the climate needs some more as the manuals tend to be based on some "average climate condition". friend use some stuff that got all blurry murky but cleared up nicely once it was finished with the solidifying process.
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hey! They are very awesome!

Actually, I think the metallics on your Veteran guy look really nice man. It is not damn at all!

I know NMM and true metallics are different, but metallics can be nice (not compare to NMM). I mean it is not that bad in my opinion.

Metallics can be good in different views

The base looks really cool too! The weathering looks mad!

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Have you tried just using a bit more of the accelerator/hardener or how ever the component is called, even if it is a bit more than the manual says to use. It could be that you just use not enough or that the climate needs some more as the manuals tend to be based on some "average climate condition". friend use some stuff that got all blurry murky but cleared up nicely once it was finished with the solidifying process.

 

 

Yeah...I tried the mixture exactly as the directions said, then after that didn't work, adding an extra drop or two of hardener...nothing worked.

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Have you tried just using a bit more of the accelerator/hardener or how ever the component is called, even if it is a bit more than the manual says to use. It could be that you just use not enough or that the climate needs some more as the manuals tend to be based on some "average climate condition". friend use some stuff that got all blurry murky but cleared up nicely once it was finished with the solidifying process.

 

 

Yeah...I tried the mixture exactly as the directions said, then after that didn't work, adding an extra drop or two of hardener...nothing worked.

At my LGS we had water on one of our tables that took over a year to fully cure till there was no more fog and it was hard. I live in norther Virginia, so our climate here is pretty moderate, so it obviously isn't the weather.

 

It might just be the product. Have you taken any recommendations on what products to use, ect?

 

The models look ace, by the way.

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Great work LunchBox - I will some day try and emulate your work as it has a lovely quality to it. My personal favourites are the Salamander and the Thousand Sons.

 

One question - do you paint the entire armour and then add a wash to the whole area to give it depth or do you do paint one armoured part at a time? I'm just curious how you get such depth from a white undercoat.

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I keep telling you man, go into town on the weekend, go to Michaels Arts and Crafts and pick up that school project scenery water kit. It's like $8 and has amazing water effects. The company makes a dozen different kits specifically for making miniature dioramas. They should be close to the Model section, the same isle at my store.
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