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LunchBox's WIP's


LunchBox

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Yeesh, this has redefined my definition of Epic. I adore that paint colour, i wouldn't know what to call it, a deep lilac? Truly jaw dropping. heh, kinda makes my want to experiment with glazes, but 20 coats of black glaze( :HQ: ), for my Iron Hands would drive me over the edge, I'm sick of painting black as it is. :)

 

Amazing stuff, i look forward to seeing more in the future. :)

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You are becoming one of the wash technique masters of the forum, Mr. Lunchy. That Gold NMM is nearly flawless. I think back to 2 years ago to now and you've come along at a high rate of speed in your quality. Great job bro. ;)
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Hey, first time stopping by this thread, and I have to say, I am floored by the quality here.

 

I personally love the recent Chaplain most, just for the color, which is beautiful. I'm assuming it's glazed, because of the thinness of the paint on the belt buckle. Any way you can share a little info on how you got the color? I'd love to do the same on my Chappy.

 

Great work on the rest of the Marines, too. Dynamic, well painted, and really gritty. I love it. Keep up the great work.

 

Thanks for stopping in, Askren...I'm glad you like. The black is indeed glazed with about six different colors...I'd have to go double check what they are. Honestly, I started throwing colors down, and forgot to take note of what order I did it in.

 

Yeesh, this has redefined my definition of Epic. I adore that paint colour, i wouldn't know what to call it, a deep lilac? Truly jaw dropping. heh, kinda makes my want to experiment with glazes, but 20 coats of black glaze( :rolleyes: ), for my Iron Hands would drive me over the edge, I'm sick of painting black as it is. :P

 

Amazing stuff, i look forward to seeing more in the future. ^_^

 

"Deep lilac"... :huh: We prefer a manlier color name, like grayish purple of doom...lol ;) I loved the first 2000 points of Iron Hands I did back in the day...after another thousand points worth, I tossed all my black into the street.

 

You are becoming one of the wash technique masters of the forum, Mr. Lunchy. That Gold NMM is nearly flawless. I think back to 2 years ago to now and you've come along at a high rate of speed in your quality. Great job bro. :)

 

Thanks man...although I have to admit I'm a bit envious of your mastry of the "perfected-classic" look.

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Thanks for stopping in, Askren...I'm glad you like. The black is indeed glazed with about six different colors...I'd have to go double check what they are. Honestly, I started throwing colors down, and forgot to take note of what order I did it in.

 

Well, that's kind of a bummer. Any idea what order you went in? Or some colors used at all? I'm assuming some purples, grey, maybe navy blue, possibly a touch of brown.

 

Do you follow the basic glazing method, of a white under coat, and then just a ton of repeat coats of one color to build up shadows, while leaving highlights with white showing through?

 

Like I said, I'd love to get the same effect on my Grimaldus, but I'd want to know I'm doing it right before diving into it.

 

Might try it on the Guilliman sculpt I'm building, too.

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Thanks for stopping in, Askren...I'm glad you like. The black is indeed glazed with about six different colors...I'd have to go double check what they are. Honestly, I started throwing colors down, and forgot to take note of what order I did it in.

 

Well, that's kind of a bummer. Any idea what order you went in? Or some colors used at all? I'm assuming some purples, grey, maybe navy blue, possibly a touch of brown.

 

Do you follow the basic glazing method, of a white under coat, and then just a ton of repeat coats of one color to build up shadows, while leaving highlights with white showing through?

 

Like I said, I'd love to get the same effect on my Grimaldus, but I'd want to know I'm doing it right before diving into it.

 

Might try it on the Guilliman sculpt I'm building, too.

 

some people leave the white show through, but thats a very difficult thing to work with because one error and you just ruined the entire piece...i also find it looks a bit off because the paint is so thin it doesnt look as smooth

 

most usually highlight up to the bright colour in multiple layers...but the majority is shadows(since theres always more in shadow than in direct light) i find it both easier and better to do the highlighting, just of course dont cover the highlights with a dark colour or your highlights will never get as bright

 

honestly for black, it depends no the effect as to what colours you use...but the main goal is to have a black that is not black, because pure black is veyr intense/harsh and doesnt work with some colours as well as a softened black...plus allows for colour play for interest and texture play later on(wel on bigger figs)

 

 

Alex

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Thanks for the tips. I'm using my Chapter Champion as a test model for glazing styles, and while I like the effect for the most part, it's slow going, and as some have indicated, quite a learning curve.

 

One of the main problems I see is color choice. For painting Ultramarines, GW has basically given us Ultramarine Blue, with Ice Blue for highlights and Asurmen Blue Wash for shadows. I've found the wash actually works quite well when it comes to covering area as a glaze, but is very dull color-wise, not nearly as bright as Ultra Blue. Ice Blue just dilutes and becomes a muting color, utterly destroying the base blue.

 

I might look into Reaper Paints (I think it's them), which provides the Ultramarine Shadow, Base, and Highlight colors for this technique. I know it's been said before that it's not the paint, it's the painter, but I just don't like the colors GW forces us to work with here.

 

I'm also very interested in your style of NMM. I want to do at least one model in NMM, which isn't a problem since Ultramarines have lots of gold. I've found some tutorials and lists of colors, and might try it once I get my hands on some of them

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reaper are all greyed, which means they are as muted and bland a colour as you can buy, up there with vallejo model colours

 

you need both to paint properly(saturated and desaturated) but you cant mix saturated colours

 

as for shading and highlighting, avoid using blues...just because you are painting blue doesnt mean you have to highlight and shadow with blue as you will notice in lunchies work

 

flesh tones, yellows, offwhites, greys, light blues, all sorts work for highlights....and the same for shadow, red, green, blue, purple, brown, mixes thereof

 

its what makes painting more enjoyable because it takes the limitations of "im painting blue/red/pink again" away, and opens up the possibilities and ideas, and then you can improve everytime you touch a brush, as you have noticed Lunchie seems to be doing with efficiency ;)

 

 

Alex

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I understand what you mean, as being an art student forces me to take oil painting studio yearly, so diversity of color is nothing new. I was really just commenting on the lack of actual workable color I've been able to find. If I'm going to be doing good blends of Ultramarine blue, I'd like to have a sizeable collection of blue to work with, and this is not the case with GW. A manufacturer with a larger range of color variants would be nice, as it suits my style a bit more.

 

Anyway, I'm rather displeased with the effect I got on my Champion's leg. I'll probably just paint him up normally, and find a new mini to practice on.

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Starks is right on...for once in his young life. :P

 

Personally, I like the RMS paints, because I prefer a very muted, almost drab pallette. If you peak back through the pages of this thread, I did a couple of Ultras using different blues...nothing overly artistic, just practicing exaggerating my zenithal lighting, and cranking out a couple of quick minis for Ebay a while back.

 

If I was to really do an Ultra, I'd pick a good blue (not GW's U-Blue), and mix with something like Scorched Brown for shades, and VMC Buff, or RMS Creamy Ivory for highlights, since they have a tinge of yellow in them. For blues...I personally would avoid using any grays for highlights, as it has a tendency to immediately neutralize your color. I might even glaze a bit of Liche Purple in before my deepest shades to add a little flavor.

 

The important thing to grasp...and I struggled with it for years...is to favor technique, and the excecution thereof, over color choice. Some amazing painters out there choose some odd colors to toss in the mix. But, with their technical expertise being at such a high level, they produce some amazing results.

 

I think it clicked for me about a year ago, when painting the standard bearer for my 40K squad entry. On the back of his cloak, I started with Bleached Bone, and progressively shaded with Liche Purple. On the front, I started with Liche Purple, and progressively highligted with Bleached Bone. I was amazed at the difference I achieved using the same 2 colors. At that point, I had a "lightbulb" moment, and realized it's more about technique, and progression, than color choice. Here was the result:

 

http://www.coolminiornot.com/pics/pics12/img472cfeb4cddf1.jpg

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I got the Sgt finished. The base turned out better than I expected. The blending gods smiled upon me throughout this one...unlike the "rank and file" contest mini...which I can't post yet.

 

http://www.coolminiornot.com/pics/pics13/img493c590ac6d19.jpg

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Amazing stuff. What colors do you use to create the skin tones on the face? They look incredible!

 

Thanks! As mentioned earlier...the color selection isn't as important as technique. Every face I do is different; from number of layers, to color progression, to nuances, tonal variations, etc. The important thing about faces was alluded to in Starks' reply...there is no "I'm painting flesh, so let's get out the flesh tones." Yes, I use flesh tones, but as a base, and highlight. The shades are done using other colors...warm browns, greens, reds, purples...whatever I can slap on there to give it some life. The highlights are usually something yellowish; like an ochre, lemon yellow, yellow/orange, bone, ivory, etc.

 

Over the Christmas break, I'm hoping to get a NMM and face tutorial together. In fact, I'd like to walk through the entire painting of a Marine...but that would involve more pics than this 'ol dial-up could handle!

 

 

Is that the landspeeder pilot's head you have used for the sergeant?

 

Very nice models by the way! :)

 

Again, many thanks...I like knowing that others enjoy my work. Yes, the head is a Land Speeder pilot head.

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Is that the landspeeder pilot's head you have used for the sergeant?

 

Very nice models by the way! ;)

 

Again, many thanks...I like knowing that others enjoy my work. Yes, the head is a Land Speeder pilot head.

 

Did you have to file the re-breather down at all to get it to fit behind the collar? I had planned to do something similar for one of my sergeants, but the head didn't seem to fit very well...

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Is that the landspeeder pilot's head you have used for the sergeant?

 

Very nice models by the way! ;)

 

Again, many thanks...I like knowing that others enjoy my work. Yes, the head is a Land Speeder pilot head.

 

Did you have to file the re-breather down at all to get it to fit behind the collar? I had planned to do something similar for one of my sergeants, but the head didn't seem to fit very well...

 

Naw...actually, I shaved the back side of the little head pivot joint to set the head about 1mm back.

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Stunning. You're speed painted Chaplain is better than I could ever do to date. I just need to paint more and more.

 

How do you get the eyes so perfect like that? I can see his pupils, without them being overdone. I don't have hands steady enough to put that pinprick of paint on there. Or is that even how you do it?

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Stunning. You're speed painted Chaplain is better than I could ever do to date. I just need to paint more and more.

 

How do you get the eyes so perfect like that? I can see his pupils, without them being overdone. I don't have hands steady enough to put that pinprick of paint on there. Or is that even how you do it?

 

Eyes take a lot of practice, but the important thing to remember is not to use black or white. I usually paint the whites of the eyes (sclera) with an ivory, cream, or ghost grey. I then make sure I glaze in a dark purple, brown...something with a red tint in it. This helps deepen the shadows for the eyes, provides contrast, and mood. Then, go back over the eyes with the same light color, and use a dark color other than black for the pupil. Using true white, black, or even true greys makes the model look like it's wearing eye-liner, and sucks all the realism out of the face.

 

As for brushes, my favorite eye brush is the Reaper Kolinsky Sable 20-0. It's a short haired detail brush that hold the proper amount of paint and water, is just stiff enough, and the tip doesn't break.

 

Here's a little more progress:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/esmeltawip-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/techwip2-1.jpg

 

 

Also, I'll be starting a Vulkan He'Stan scratch build for a collector...stay tuned for that, as it will test every ability I have.

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Hey lunchbox, cant wait to see your He'Stan model, will be an exelent model for the recipient! Thank you for posting up all of your mini's, have learnt alot from reading your posts and have been pushing myself to improve. keep up the good work mate.

S.O.N.

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Thanks, S.O.N. I don't think Sallies get enough face-time...I can't wait to get started.

 

Oh...and ya'll could probably tell the right leg, and abdominal ribbing isn't finished.

 

Starks: Your "lack of effort" still looks better than my better efforts. My zenithal lighting parctice is going pretty well, I think. On the standard Marine, I added a dark green glaze into the shades before finishing the shading. I like the way it turned out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here's a little more progress on the melta-gunner, and the chaplain. The melta guy is off his base right now as the water effects cures. I'm also working on finishing his pack. I started on the multi-melta, but nothing too exciting yet. Anyway, the freehand is getting better, and I'm still playing with shoulder pad schemes, and squad markings. I think I like the black pads, with gold trim, and the triple lightning bold 'column' look for the 3rd company iconography. The beige pads with gold trim was a little too washed out, and the blue-gray trim was a little too close to the armor color.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/esmeltawip2.jpg

 

The chaplain is coming along nicely, and the "black" is probably the best "black" I've done. I think I may have settled in to a good recipe for "black", of course, without using any actual black. Over light gray primer, I wash on RMS Dark Elf Shadow, then RMS Blue Liner, then RMS Brown Liner, then RMS Walnut Brown. I added P3 Thornwood Green, and RMS Dark Violet (I think that's what it's called) for nuance colors. For the highlights, RMS Stone Gray, and a little VMC Buff added to that for highlights. It's really added a lot of life to the "black", and in person, you can see a variety of colors as you rotate the model...it's pretty cool!

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/lunchboxmtbr/chapwip2.jpg

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