Jump to content

White Armor Dilemma


Lord Solcia

Recommended Posts

After working with glossed scaly green(and not liking it too much) I began hearing voices in my head to find a new color before I paint anything else.

 

These last few months have been filled with trying to find inspiration for a new color scheme that will look good on the tabletop as well as strike fear in any fluff I write. ("The menacing, sea green super-warrior clashed with the daemon" doesn't sound too good when read over.) My search for inspiration ended less then a week ago after looking at the copy of the Horus Heresy novel False Gods my friend had lent me, deciding to read it or not to kill the boredom that comes at the end of Summer Break.

 

The Luna Wolves on the cover of the book are amazing to look at in my opinion! And I've decided that white armor with a very dark red trim and brass/bronze chest Aquila's/skulls/etc. would be the way to go.

 

There are, however, a few problems.

 

I want the effect of the very bright white armor like on the cover but I also want to start shading my models to give them a more professional look. So I not only ask on this problem, of what color, if any I am to use in shading, but also what method would work the best to give it that feel I'm going for?

 

I also want to know if I should use gloss, as I do with my other previous models.

 

Waiting for answers and ideas, thank you as always,

 

Solcia

Link to comment
https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/143802-white-armor-dilemma/
Share on other sites

as a rule i dont use gloss,

but you could use matt varnish on the armour and then gloss varnish the highlights

would make it look mega white

 

generally i think a good white recipe is

codex grey

fortress grey

frot/skull white 50:50

fort:skull 25:75

highlights with oure skull

 

wash to effect

 

or

use dene...denemb...that stone foundation instead of grey with a similar technique

 

hope that helps

if not...boo :devil:

Hmmm. I can see why this would work well, but I was hoping to use an ink wash as I'm a total noob at painting shading.

 

I tried using the mixture process before but it didn't turn out too well...

 

I'm not going for supreme looking models as I just want a force good enough to go to a tournament with. You know? Appealing to look at on the table and if you look close on it you want start going... "Wow, this thing was rushed." If my phone had good quality pictures, I would show examples of my previous work. I'm very proud of my current guys, but I can't shake the fact it sounds like I'm writing about and playing with the not-so-jolly green giants.

 

Do you see what I mean?

might be able to help you here....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/lonewolf_dcc/007-8.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/lonewolf_dcc/010-2.jpg

 

this is a mini i did recently here's the break down of the white

black undercoat

dheneb stone basecoat

badab black wash

highlighted with dheneb stone

final highlight of 50:50 dheneb stone and white

 

simple and pretty effective IMO

First of all! Excellent model there!

 

Back on subject though, that's exactly the look I want my white armor to have! ;)

Thanks for the recipe, sounds pretty easy, I'll give it a go when I get the supplies. But I don't want that stoppign everyone else for suggestions. :devil:

I've been painting up some luna wolves too.

 

I primed them white.

 

Went over the entire armor with a really thin white wash to even out the colors.

 

I mixed some of the new black wash with about 1:1 ratio of future floor wax.

 

Used the mix in all the crevices and detail lines in the armor.

 

Go back and clean up any over spill with white.

 

Before I did any more detail work I hit them with a thin coat of matte varnish.

This is how I do whites:Painting White over Black

 

Start with straight Astronomicon Grey

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k63/OliverTwist_01/UMUpdate2004.jpg

 

Then, water down Shadow Grey, so its about half water. Gently and carefully line all of the crevases, gaps and lines with this mixture.

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k63/OliverTwist_01/UMUpdate2017.jpg

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k63/OliverTwist_01/UMUpdate2018.jpg

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k63/OliverTwist_01/UMUpdate2019.jpg

 

Once the shading is comepletly dry; do the next step

 

Mix 70 percent skull white with 30 percent astronomicon grey and cover all the plates. This isnt a highlight, so dont leave the straight astronomicon visible, do however, leave all the shadow grey visibile.

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k63/OliverTwist_01/UMUpdate2024.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k63/OliverTwist_01/UMUpdate2025.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k63/OliverTwist_01/UMUpdate2026.jpg

 

After that's dry, go back over the plates with straight Skull White.

You can do the shadow grey at the very end, its much easier that way, I've just chosen to do it after the basecoat because that's the formula I generally follow: Base Coat then Shade then Highlight.

 

The paints still wet on this guy, but it drys smooth and solid.

 

This is about 95 percent skull white, just a drop of astronomicon for the last coat.

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k63/OliverTwist_01/UMUpdate3005.jpg

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k63/OliverTwist_01/UMUpdate3006.jpg

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k63/OliverTwist_01/UMUpdate3007.jpg

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k63/OliverTwist_01/UMUpdate3009.jpg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.