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soda's fists


icallitsoda

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The sun was starting to set when I took the pictures so they didnt come out quite so sharp. Maybe I'll take some more later... I'm thinking of adding some litanies if I can figure out a decent method.

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/maxh/IMG_0492.jpghttp://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/maxh/IMG_0493.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/maxh/IMG_0487.jpghttp://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/maxh/IMG_0490.jpg

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Absolutely Beautifull...

 

Great yellow, nice and deep, but not too bright.

I like the bases too, they are similar to my own -_-

 

I still havent decided on my next army, but IF are definitly

high on the list B)

Together with Pre-Heresy Thousand sons, Red Corsairs

and Word Bearers...

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Since you've mentioned a couple times about taking your minis outside to take your photos, I would suggest doing the whole "golden hour" rule. The Rising/Setting (former is better) sun will make your yellows and photos pop much more, plus help with those nasty hard shadows. I personally think that the pics in this post are of a waaaay better quality than those over in the WIP.

 

Cheers, and congrats on such a beautiful IF force!

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That is exactly what a squad painted by me (really well mind you) would look like, haha.

 

Great work soda. I am especially fond of how very well those shoulder pad transfers came out. 10/10 for the product. Thank the Emperor you made blue lenses, so many IF squads that I have seen have been ruined completely by the use of red for lenses, as you may know, they blend right into the yellow of the head if they arnt bright enough.

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Thanks for the compliments! Thanks for the tips about sunlight, and I do plan to add text to the seals and some litanies.

Possibly some snow patches for the bases.

 

Yellow Recipe:

 

1. First thing you need is patience - it takes many layers.

2. Prime black.

3. 2-3 layers of 75/25 Iyanden Darksun/water. This is to be a solid base coat.

4. Here's where the patience comes in. You need to take Golden Yellow, add some water and/or glaze medium and do as many coats as it takes to get the Golden Yellow to be solid everywhere but the recesses - which are left Iyanden Darksun. I'll estimate 6 layers.

5. Take the new Gryphonne Sepia wash and carefully apply it ONLY to the recesses/lines in the armour.

6. You'll probably need to touch up some areas with thinned Golden Yellow again.

7. Highlight "high" areas and edges with thinned (again water and/or glaze medium) Sunburst Yellow.

 

This method makes great use of the new foundation paints and the washes. I can't say enough about them.

But the key is to get the Golden Yellow to look nice - and that's the hardest part.

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5. Take the new Gryphonne Sepia wash and carefully apply it ONLY to the recesses/lines in the armour.

 

That's a great tip.

 

One that would have helped me BEFORE I made the mistake of using the Sepia over the the entire yellow area on a test figure....

 

Made him look like the "Baby Diarrhea Guy", as my wife called him.

 

ZKF!

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  • 10 months later...
How did you get the transfers to be so flat and even?

 

I'm working on an IF army and the transfers are giving me some serious headaches.

I was about to ask the same question. I have such a problem getting the IF transfers to be flat like yours. (I actually can't do it!) Would you mind sharing how you did your transfers?

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How did you get the transfers to be so flat and even?

 

I answered this question in my works in progress thread located here: http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...howtopic=139202

 

I use microsol and microset for applying the decals. I can't recommend them enough. Your local hobby store should carry them - you should be able to get both for about ten bucks. Microsol makes the decal very soft and flexible. This allows the decal to really lay down and drape iteself on and conform to the surface of the shoulder pad. "Microset prepares the surface with special wetting agents that cut the oils in new paint and convert the adhesive on the back of the decal to a stronger and longer lasting one. The decal's better adhesion to the model prevents tiny air bells from occurring and results in an invisible carrier film or the so called "paint on look." -source

 

So basically, you apply microsol to the decal and microset to the painted shoulderpad. Then take a microsol-dampened paint brush and slide the decal on to the shoulderpad, then carefully position it. Don't use a dry paint brush, it will wick up all the solution when you're positioning the decal. Positioning the decal once it's on the shoulderpad is a little tricky, but like anything else, it just takes practice. Also, I find that even though the microsol has made the decal very soft, you still need to make some cuts going halfway into the decal before applying it. Use your modelling knife and gently cut a slit or two going about halfway across. WARNING: this means your decal will be very very fragile when you're positioning it with your brush. Be prepared to break a couple decals. But this isn't a problem really, so long as you line the pieces up perfectly.

 

Let the decal dry at least overnight, and once it's dry apply a coat or two of Testor's dulcote spray. This does a few things. Most importantly it protects the decal and prevents it from being chipped/broken. But also, the flat finish gets rid of that terrible shine that you normally see on decals. This is vital important in giving the decal that painted-on look.

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