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My new iron warriors -


ferrum proeliator

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Best tip I can give is to drybrush everything you can. This may take longer to do, but the the effects will be worth it. For example, on the champion's chainmain at his waist, the paint seems far too thick and cloggy. If you applied drybrush layers, even just one drybrush worth, will be enough to make it look metallic. To go that bit further, all you need to do is put some black ink or one of the new dark washes over it. that'll make it settle in the recesses, to make the dips darker, and the raises really stand out. It also serve to dull the metal, fitting a Chaos warrior, so it doesn't look like it's brand spanking new from a forge world B)

 

Same with skin and hair, though I don't personally recommend a wash. I wish I could show you a picture of some skin I've done, but I don't have a digital camera.

The way I do faces and hair is to choose the darkest colour as the base, using one of the Citadel foundation paints. Drybrush that onto the surface, covering it entirely and in all the gaps, but make sure that you don't get it thick. The trick is to dib the brush in the paint, then wipe it from the bristles with paper towel. Then, paint the paper towel forcefully until it stops coming off visibly. Once that's done, start to do the same thing with the model, and you'll find that there's still paint on there. To get more, simply brush harder, and you'll see it getting a nice, even coverage.

 

Once that's all done, select the next colour up, and repeat the drybrushing. Only this time, don't try to cover everything. Brush lightly, but firmly over the surface, and try not to press to hard, especially over and recesses such as ears or eyes.

 

A tip if you're trying to drybrush, but avoid catching other areas (and thus avoiding doing any patching up) is to put some blutac over the areas you don't want to be affected. For example, while doing the skin, put some over the hair, and vice versa.

 

This can work with almost anything that needs layers - skin, hair, chainmail, cloth... and allows a natural build up of colour.

For large flat surfaces, I recommend doing the same. Drybrushing the entire model with a basecoat (to hide the spray base) allows you to apply lighter colours without them being merged with the base spray (Chaos black is terrible to merging, especially on light colours like red and yellow).

For example, my marines shoulder pads are blue. I first drybrush them with the Foundation blue, then when it's dry, drybrush my next colour blue on top. The results are wonderous, truly.

 

Hope this helps you!

Best tip I can give is to drybrush everything you can. This may take longer to do, but the the effects will be worth it. For example, on the champion's chainmain at his waist, the paint seems far too thick and cloggy. If you applied drybrush layers, even just one drybrush worth, will be enough to make it look metallic. To go that bit further, all you need to do is put some black ink or one of the new dark washes over it. that'll make it settle in the recesses, to make the dips darker, and the raises really stand out. It also serve to dull the metal, fitting a Chaos warrior, so it doesn't look like it's brand spanking new from a forge world :P

 

Same with skin and hair, though I don't personally recommend a wash. I wish I could show you a picture of some skin I've done, but I don't have a digital camera.

The way I do faces and hair is to choose the darkest colour as the base, using one of the Citadel foundation paints. Drybrush that onto the surface, covering it entirely and in all the gaps, but make sure that you don't get it thick. The trick is to dib the brush in the paint, then wipe it from the bristles with paper towel. Then, paint the paper towel forcefully until it stops coming off visibly. Once that's done, start to do the same thing with the model, and you'll find that there's still paint on there. To get more, simply brush harder, and you'll see it getting a nice, even coverage.

 

Once that's all done, select the next colour up, and repeat the drybrushing. Only this time, don't try to cover everything. Brush lightly, but firmly over the surface, and try not to press to hard, especially over and recesses such as ears or eyes.

 

A tip if you're trying to drybrush, but avoid catching other areas (and thus avoiding doing any patching up) is to put some blutac over the areas you don't want to be affected. For example, while doing the skin, put some over the hair, and vice versa.

 

This can work with almost anything that needs layers - skin, hair, chainmail, cloth... and allows a natural build up of colour.

For large flat surfaces, I recommend doing the same. Drybrushing the entire model with a basecoat (to hide the spray base) allows you to apply lighter colours without them being merged with the base spray (Chaos black is terrible to merging, especially on light colours like red and yellow).

For example, my marines shoulder pads are blue. I first drybrush them with the Foundation blue, then when it's dry, drybrush my next colour blue on top. The results are wonderous, truly.

 

Hope this helps you!

B)

cheers for that - good advice

I don't like Iron Warriors...

 

I'm not sure what I can offer beyond that. Try mixing a little rust brown or any brown ink in with your black or metal wash. I'm using almost pure rust brown when I wash chainmail for my Nurgle and Orks now. Then I highlight with Mithril, quick easy...

 

You can add more rust with straight rust brown ink or use Fiery Orange or even some tin bitz...

Best tip I can give is to drybrush everything you can. This may take longer to do, but the the effects will be worth it. For example, on the champion's chainmain at his waist, the paint seems far too thick and cloggy. If you applied drybrush layers, even just one drybrush worth, will be enough to make it look metallic. To go that bit further, all you need to do is put some black ink or one of the new dark washes over it. that'll make it settle in the recesses, to make the dips darker, and the raises really stand out. It also serve to dull the metal, fitting a Chaos warrior, so it doesn't look like it's brand spanking new from a forge world :)

 

Same with skin and hair, though I don't personally recommend a wash. I wish I could show you a picture of some skin I've done, but I don't have a digital camera.

The way I do faces and hair is to choose the darkest colour as the base, using one of the Citadel foundation paints. Drybrush that onto the surface, covering it entirely and in all the gaps, but make sure that you don't get it thick. The trick is to dib the brush in the paint, then wipe it from the bristles with paper towel. Then, paint the paper towel forcefully until it stops coming off visibly. Once that's done, start to do the same thing with the model, and you'll find that there's still paint on there. To get more, simply brush harder, and you'll see it getting a nice, even coverage.

 

Once that's all done, select the next colour up, and repeat the drybrushing. Only this time, don't try to cover everything. Brush lightly, but firmly over the surface, and try not to press to hard, especially over and recesses such as ears or eyes.

 

A tip if you're trying to drybrush, but avoid catching other areas (and thus avoiding doing any patching up) is to put some blutac over the areas you don't want to be affected. For example, while doing the skin, put some over the hair, and vice versa.

 

This can work with almost anything that needs layers - skin, hair, chainmail, cloth... and allows a natural build up of colour.

For large flat surfaces, I recommend doing the same. Drybrushing the entire model with a basecoat (to hide the spray base) allows you to apply lighter colours without them being merged with the base spray (Chaos black is terrible to merging, especially on light colours like red and yellow).

For example, my marines shoulder pads are blue. I first drybrush them with the Foundation blue, then when it's dry, drybrush my next colour blue on top. The results are wonderous, truly.

 

Hope this helps you!

 

It´s not nescessary to drybush when applying your basecoat. If you have a problem with your basecoat - or following layers - being to thick, just thin your paints with water before applying them.

 

Drybrushing should only be used to emphasize raised contours on the model. The idea with drybrushing is that it DOESN`T cover the entire area you´re painting, but only the raised parts, and then giving an impression of depth.

 

Thinning your paints will also help you when/if you try blending your colours instead of drybrushing. Blending is far harder than drybrushing - and takes longer (unless you´re really pro) -, but the result is also a lot better.

 

 

1 last thing: If you´re gonna drybrush your army I would advise you to try and remove the biggest (preferably all) of the moldlines, because drybrushing is gonna meke those REALLY obvious.

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