LORDMORKAI Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 OK so i have been poking around here a bit. One of the things I noticed was that a few of you had made remarks about not being able to use the decals... ok this is how i do it and it works for me, feel free to add any of you experienced modelers out there. 1. you need some GLOSS ACRYLIC, (i personally like the Testors model master for a lot of their stuff) 2. apply the Gloss A to desired areas you wish to place a decal. let dry for 20 min or so 3. immerse decal in really hot (microwave) water 4. slide decal into spot with a wet q tip. let dry slightly, 10-15 min or so 5. use solvaset, this stuff shrinks the decal and gets it to fit, even over uneven areas. again let dry for 1 hour. 6. apply layer (thin) of GLOSS ACRYLIC over decal 7. spray with model master clear semi-gloss 8. if you desire a flatter finish, use model master clear flat Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/149859-some-stuff-i-have-picked-up-over-the-years/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf89 Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 I usually paint mine on, GS a symbol for them, or don't bother with them. My friend however has used that shrinking stuff and it does create a smooth finish that looks really good. Thanks for posting. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/149859-some-stuff-i-have-picked-up-over-the-years/#findComment-1740846 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 solvaset? whats that? and where would you get that in the uk or something similar? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/149859-some-stuff-i-have-picked-up-over-the-years/#findComment-1741053 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mal Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Solvaset... OHMIGOD that stuff rocks!!! (sorry) I actually 'borrowed' some from a friend who gets it off of base, but if you do a google search im sure you could find a supplier without too much trouble, I remember doing that before, but I cant rememebr the site names (and im too lazy to go back to google again) Ohh just for a laugh, heres the quote on the front of the solvaset bottle "Makes decals sunggle down into every crevice" How many companies are willing to put the word 'snuggle' on their product?!? lol Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/149859-some-stuff-i-have-picked-up-over-the-years/#findComment-1741214 Share on other sites More sharing options...
DGC Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 My two-pence worth The stuff you are looking for is Microset and Microsol. In the U.K you can mail-order from Hannants http://www.hannants.co.uk/search/index.php...p;NUMPERPAGE=25 For myself, they are what I use but I don't go all the way with the first coat of gloss. If you have a smooth enough base coat then microsol etc will bo the rest. I tend to use Microsol fisrt to help soften the decal to conform, repeatedly brushing the decal with a damp brush until if looks O.K. Then re-brush outwards using the Microset. On large flat areas I just use Microset, unless there is a ridge you need to cover, then use as above Catcha - DGC Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/149859-some-stuff-i-have-picked-up-over-the-years/#findComment-1742737 Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolfLordLars Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 Exactly how I do it, minus the hot water (will try that). Solvaset is usually available in any store that sells models (like, cars/planes/etc). Best stuff I have ever used. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/149859-some-stuff-i-have-picked-up-over-the-years/#findComment-1742950 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Long Fang Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 I guess I'm the only one just using water and a steady hand? Soak transfer in water (even cold works) Pull off of paper - stroke with wet paint brush position remove excess water allow to dry Never had any problems just using the basic method. Have transfers that are still on that i did at least 4-5 years ago. Are you guys just getting a better finish or? Fang Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/149859-some-stuff-i-have-picked-up-over-the-years/#findComment-1743015 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grey Mage Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 Theyre probly NOT having my problem with water- tears and folds. I use warm water too... but only if Ive got a couple extra and some time.... otherwise itll tear, or bend in knots. Atleast Im not putting them on crooked anymore. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/149859-some-stuff-i-have-picked-up-over-the-years/#findComment-1743051 Share on other sites More sharing options...
deedark Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 I use Microset and Microsol for shoulder pads in particular, it softens the transfer and it moulds to the curve, done right it looks painted on rather than a shiny trasnfer - hide the edges as well. Great stuff and not to expensive got mine from ebay D. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/149859-some-stuff-i-have-picked-up-over-the-years/#findComment-1743841 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iams Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 It's hard to find microset and sol and all the other stuff so I just leave them cracked. Personally I think its weathered looking ish. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/149859-some-stuff-i-have-picked-up-over-the-years/#findComment-1746902 Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolfLordLars Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 You dont have model stores in your town? If they sell models and decals and such, they will have some solution to set them on the model, trust me. Just gotta ask. I know Hobby Town carries it as well. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/149859-some-stuff-i-have-picked-up-over-the-years/#findComment-1749179 Share on other sites More sharing options...
WG Vrox Posted January 15, 2009 Share Posted January 15, 2009 I used this thread to put on my transfers which were the first for me, but I thought I would add some details that I had to figure out for myself. So I will just add my 2 cents to the original post 1. you need some GLOSS ACRYLIC, (i personally like the Testors model master for a lot of their stuff) Vrox >I believe this is to smooth out the area that you plan to put on the transfer to make it a more accepting surface. I didn't do this but I had a smooth area to start with. for rougher painted areas this is a good idea 2. apply the Gloss A to desired areas you wish to place a decal. let dry for 20 min or so. Vrox > 2.5 Do youself a favor and buy some really nice small percision sissors, the reason for this I found is that the closer you get to the actaual image of the decal the better the look, so yes try to cut away all the clear material and get close, I had extra decals so destroyed a few decals along the way trying to get to close. vrox > 2.6 while the decal still has it backing you will find that cutting it caused it to curl a little, just put it on the finger print area of your finger and bend back flat. 3. immerse decal in really hot (microwave) water. vrox > when you are doing mass decals if hard to keep the water hot, but it does help make the decal maluable so if you are finding when you place the decal down its not conforming 100% to the surface (because it curved or what not) try using the hot water. If its a flat surface or very small decal, hot water is not needed. 4. slide decal into spot with a wet q tip. let dry slightly, 10-15 min or so vrox >I used a paint brush to pick up the decal out of the water, I touched the back of the brush to a paper towel to drain excess water from the brush and then placed it on the area I wanted. I used the point of the brush to push at the edges of the decal to slid it into position. The trick is to have enough water to be able to move the decal around, but no so much that it floats. vrox > 4.5 Once the decal is in place take the edge of a paper towel and put it to the edge of the decal, you should see the paper towel suck all the excess water from behind the decal. I then put a dry spot of paper towel on top of the decal and smothed it out so it is dry. Make sure you get all the water from behind the decal or it will moved on ya. If it gets stuck out of position just fill your brush up with water and soak the decal, with a little probbing at the edge it should float up and off the surface. I just start over at this point. But once that decal dries on out of position, its very hard to get off without destroying it. 5. use solvaset, this stuff shrinks the decal and gets it to fit, even over uneven areas. again let dry for 1 hour. vrox > At times I had to use a few applications to get an area of the decal to (snuggle down) even when dry it still works. Don't be shy about how much you use per application. 6. apply layer (thin) of GLOSS ACRYLIC over decal >vrox this is going to give it a shine, so if you want a duller look go with a matt finish 7. spray with model master clear semi-gloss 8. if you desire a flatter finish, use model master clear flat Hope that gives a little more information for ya. WG Vrox Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/149859-some-stuff-i-have-picked-up-over-the-years/#findComment-1844646 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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