hunterkiler86 Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 i recently purchased a seraphim squad and i've found that gluing them to the slotted base is a challenge. does anyone have any tips that could help me? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/153585-seraphim-help/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lady_Canoness Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 I find that superglue works well. step 1: twist the metal slot that fits into the base to provide a tighter fit. step 2: put superglue on both sides of the metal slot. step 3: insert the slot into the base then place the model upright on a flat surface. step 4: to support the balance of the model so that it sets in the upright position deisred, take another miniature (preferably one with a nice pointing sword) and use it to prop the other one up. Leave it in place for a few hours and you should be good to go. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/153585-seraphim-help/#findComment-1790188 Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarriorFish Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 I accidentally picked up a gel super glue while in a DIY store once, and I've since made this mistake on several more occasions. When it comes to fiddly models, or parts that don't quite mate properly it's priceless. Actually, I pretty much use it exclusively whenever I need super glue now. Lady Canoness's advice still stands though, just that I find the gel glue far superior to ordinary super glue. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/153585-seraphim-help/#findComment-1790220 Share on other sites More sharing options...
x19 Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 The answer to all super glue/metal piece woes is Zip Kicker. Its an accelerant for the glue and I've used it for Countless Grey Knights, Forge World Resin, and Tyranid Pieces. The trick is to apply a small amount of Zip Kicker to the center of the area you are trying to glue, then a larger amount of glue to the outer edges. The Zip Kicker causes the small glue in the center to cure nearly instantly, then the outer glue cures normally giving it sufficient strength. If you do it right, the glue doesn't end up any more brittle that just Super Glue, and a good deal stronger than using saliva. I've used it for gluing to bases as well, same concepts apply. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/153585-seraphim-help/#findComment-1790237 Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJumppanen Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 The answer to all super glue/metal piece woes is Zip Kicker. Its an accelerant for the glue and I've used it for Countless Grey Knights, Forge World Resin, and Tyranid Pieces. The trick is to apply a small amount of Zip Kicker to the center of the area you are trying to glue, then a larger amount of glue to the outer edges. The Zip Kicker causes the small glue in the center to cure nearly instantly, then the outer glue cures normally giving it sufficient strength. If you do it right, the glue doesn't end up any more brittle that just Super Glue, and a good deal stronger than using saliva. I've used it for gluing to bases as well, same concepts apply. Just make absolutely sure that you don't get that stuff in your hands, not because you lose some of your skin, but because that reaction creates heat. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/153585-seraphim-help/#findComment-1790533 Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJumppanen Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 I find that superglue works well. step 1: twist the metal slot that fits into the base to provide a tighter fit. step 2: put superglue on both sides of the metal slot. step 3: insert the slot into the base then place the model upright on a flat surface. step 4: to support the balance of the model so that it sets in the upright position deisred, take another miniature (preferably one with a nice pointing sword) and use it to prop the other one up. Leave it in place for a few hours and you should be good to go. Just IMHO, consider swapping steps 2 and 3. Or least make a dry run so you know that it is a good fit. Also, put some paper over the table so there won't be any glue drops on the table. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/153585-seraphim-help/#findComment-1790535 Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonlady Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 I disagree about the Zip kicker. Remember that using it makes your bond more brittle in the long run. Faster isn't better in this instance. You might not see this immediately, but in time or in any type of summer heat, when your models begin to fall out of your bases, it becomes apparent. Patience, my young paduans! DL Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/153585-seraphim-help/#findComment-1790570 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tauren Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 Paint water on one side, and glue on the other. Superglue cures with moisture. That's why it cures nearly instantly on your fingers. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/153585-seraphim-help/#findComment-1790620 Share on other sites More sharing options...
march10k Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 1. Cut off the base 2. Drill a hole in the bottom of the dress 3. Insert a clear plastic rod (like from fliers) in the hole 4. make a hole in the base for the other end of the rod 5. Glue the other end into the hole It looks a lot better, since their feet are off the ground! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/153585-seraphim-help/#findComment-1790680 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tauren Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 The other option is to build the base up with some simple terrain (a chunk of metal, a bit of rock) and glue 1 foot to the terrain piece. Pin it if you can. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/153585-seraphim-help/#findComment-1791426 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zelyre Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Snip off the stilts Drill a hold under a foot or under one of the robes. Insert a pin. Insert pin into base, leaving an inch or so of metal there so it looks like they're flyin'/hovering/landing/taking off. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/153585-seraphim-help/#findComment-1791611 Share on other sites More sharing options...
number6 Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Green stuff. The tab doesn't come anywhere near to filling up the entire slot in the base to begin with, so fill the slot with green stuff, insert the Seraphim model, clean up and squish around the excess, and you're done. 24 hours later, all is well. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/153585-seraphim-help/#findComment-1792142 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charred Heretic Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Lots of good ideas in here. Greenstuff is an excellent idea, and better if you're doing several at one time. It doesn't shrink, so it will fill in the slot, and even give the chance to add a little contour to the flat base surface, which will add realism that you'll probably appreciate. I used to use hot glue, and while it was a little messy, it certainly worked better than glue for the problematic cases. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/153585-seraphim-help/#findComment-1792192 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragons Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Lots of good ideas in here. Greenstuff is an excellent idea, and better if you're doing several at one time. It doesn't shrink, so it will fill in the slot, and even give the chance to add a little contour to the flat base surface, which will add realism that you'll probably appreciate. I used to use hot glue, and while it was a little messy, it certainly worked better than glue for the problematic cases. I was wondering if someone was going to bring this up.. I've used hotglue for an entire army of my bases ( I clip the tabs off) and then build up surface/texture with Green Stuff. It's easy to do.. Hard to mess up, even the first time. Just watch the glue gun.. it's HOT ;) -Dragons Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/153585-seraphim-help/#findComment-1792327 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lion in the Stars Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 I "kick" most of my models, and have never had an issue with them coming apart due to heat issues. What I do is: 1. bend the tab to tightly hold the mini in place. 2. apply extra-thick superglue to the base, filling the slot. 3. "kick" the bottom of the base, let dry. The base will break before the model comes out. Seraphim in particular I would pin in a flying pose, however. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/153585-seraphim-help/#findComment-1792553 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onnotangu Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 another option which is what I did was use a pair of needle nose pliers to form a curvy wave on the tab itself not quite an S but curvy enough that it contacts the slot at multiple points and then used epoxy5 min cure time to seal it to the base. Covered it with GW's Urban basing kit Crushed slate and sand. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/153585-seraphim-help/#findComment-1799044 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arkaniss Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 Wow. Lots of detailed and expansive solutions here! I just bend the tabs in the middle so its just too wide to fit in the slot. Then you force the tab in said slot and it fits snugly in. Add super glue and you're done! :P Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/153585-seraphim-help/#findComment-1799500 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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