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feel triked and mislead by the fact that these so called 'french' death guard are nor wearing berahs(wierd hat things) lol

 

Héhé, it's a good idea ;).

 

Seriously, I have received for Christmas the famous Nurgle Sorcerer, cool !

 

Gorzag

Wow, those are some amazing models, I especially love the color scheme which seems to find the perfect balance between green and off white and gives them a truly disgusting look. What is this "dipping" method anyway? If it's a speed method that can produce *that* then it's something I would like to be privy to.

Thanks a lot !

 

What is this "dipping" method anyway?

 

It's a fast painting method : http://www.dysartes.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.p...609e082d9afc2e6

 

Tu peut me donner la recette pour le os? J'adore la couleur!

 

I use simply dilute bleached bone + dipping.

 

Gorzag

Edited by Gorzag

Would you mind spilling how you did the red for the pustules on your marines (the red parts in this pic):

http://ns1.hostingpics.net/pics/180336DG10.JPG

 

I am starting a DG army and I wanted a way to make the various pustules and nasty bits stand out, and I love how you did this red.

Would you mind spilling how you did the red for the pustules on your marines (the red parts in this pic)

 

I use simply very dilute red gore (on a white undercoat) before dipping. As this colour is very dilute, it seems to be lightly pink.

 

Gorzag

Hey would you mind if I used the same paint scheme.. It looks absolutely fabulous and I was looking for a unique plaguemarine colour scheme apart from the usual rotting greens and deathguard colours. Hope to see your sorceror in your colours!
  • 2 weeks later...

Hop, welcome to a new friend, a charming sorcerer with Nurgle's rot :

 

http://img4.hostingpics.net/pics/851995sorcier4.jpg

 

http://img4.hostingpics.net/pics/660074sorcier3.jpg

 

http://img4.hostingpics.net/pics/209566sorcier2.jpg

 

Gorzag

  • 2 weeks later...
Well I have to say very Very nice looking army you have there!

 

. . . . hang on did I just use the word nice to describe a Death Guard army :tu:

 

 

Disciple

 

I agree with Dark Disciple here.

 

Love the Granolax, which miniature did you use for him if I may ask? Just an Unclean One with lot's of Green-Stuff or a ready-made model?

 

Kind regards,

 

Low

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

And now, welcome to Typhus :

 

http://img5.hostingpics.net/pics/220493Typhus2.jpg

 

http://img5.hostingpics.net/pics/962087Typhus3.jpg

 

http://img5.hostingpics.net/pics/230679Typhus4.jpg

 

Typhus and his friends.

 

http://img5.hostingpics.net/pics/760658termigroup.jpg

 

Gorzag

Edited by Gorzag
  • 1 month later...

The 4th Plague Marines unit with 2 flamers and a champion.

 

http://img5.hostingpics.net/pics/414930mdlplf1.jpg

 

http://img5.hostingpics.net/pics/123811mdlplf2.jpg

 

http://img5.hostingpics.net/pics/969524mdlplf3.jpg

 

http://img5.hostingpics.net/pics/771513mdlplf4.jpg

 

Gorzag

  • 2 weeks later...

Hello,

 

I translated your tut. I hope this is correct and you don't mind that I did this.

 

"1 - Sub-white layer.

2 - Choose colors that will marry well with the wood (in my case, camo green for the armor, mithril silver for metal parts, red gore for blood and injury ,...). Please note that shades of brown smoothly too.

3 - Good dilute flat, so we see the slightly sub-layer by transparency. The wood will enhance the contrast, somewhat like a "super wash.

4 - How to choose your wood, the less "complex" as possible (avoid using too many products offering protection), an entry-level will do.

5 - For my part, I apply the wood with a brush (I do not soak) to better control the product.

6 - Wait until the product dries well.

7 - Make any edits.

8 - Go matt varnish to mitigate the effect of the glossy wood. "

 

NB: do not hesitate to run tests before you start using this method in a complete army.

"1 - Sub-white layer.

2 - Choose colors that will marry well with the wood (in my case, camo green for the armor, mithril silver for metal parts, red gore for blood and injury ,...). Please note that shades of brown smoothly too.

3 - Good dilute flat, so we see the slightly sub-layer by transparency. The wood will enhance the contrast, somewhat like a "super wash.

4 - How to choose your wood, the less "complex" as possible (avoid using too many products offering protection), an entry-level will do.

5 - For my part, I apply the wood with a brush (I do not soak) to better control the product.

6 - Wait until the product dries well.

7 - Make any edits.

8 - Go matt varnish to mitigate the effect of the glossy wood. "

 

NB: do not hesitate to run tests before you start using this method in a complete army.

 

Thanks for your post! It actually helped my finally figure out something in the Author's original translation!

 

That translation helps a little, but is mainly a shining example of why a computer can't translate as well as a human. I do not speak French, however, by looking at the Author's translation, as well as the Computer's, I believe I can step in and apply a bit of logic to straighten all this out.

 

The biggest problem is the translation of "Lasure", which I believe is the 'Dip' or wood finish.

 

Also, I am very familiar with 'Dipping' models, and have written a tutorial on another 40k Forum.

 

Here is my best translation: (words in brackets are mine)

 

 

1. Undercoat White. (Prime White)

2. Choose paint colors that will be complimented by the 'Dip'. In Monsieur Gorzag's example, he used Camo green for the armor, Mithril silver for the metalliacs, and Red Gore for the blood and wounds. (If choosing between two shades of a color, choose the lighter one.)

3. Note -- when you apply the paint, make sure it is dilute. Dilute enough that you can see that the model is basecoated in white. Although this will make the miniature look low-contrast or 'flat', do not worry! The 'Dip' will increase the contrast when you are finished. (I added alot of words for clarification.)

4. Choosing the 'Dip', a basic product will do. (Edit -- In the USA, use Minwax Polyshades Antique Walnut Satin. Avaliable at Lowes, Ace, Home Depot, etc.. What you want is an "All-in-one Polyurethane wood-stain and finish")

5. Do not physically dip the models in the 'Dip'. Use a brush to brush it on and control it better.

6. Let the 'Dip' dry. (overnight is best)

7. Touch-up your painting mistakes and add whatever details you like (Some people think you can't paint over the 'Dip' - you can, and very easily!)

8. Spray with Matte (flat) varnish to kill the gloss of the 'Dip' (Edit - Testor's brand model spray is probably the best avaliable)

 

P.S. Make a test miniature to see if you like it before painting your entire Army.

Edited by aeroplane
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey aeroplane thanks for the further explanations. It's great to see you guys contribute to make it easier for us to understand Gorzag's directions. :cuss

 

Thanks for the mentioning of What you want is an "All-in-one Polyurethane wood-stain and finish" because where I come from the US versions are really costly! Now I'll be able to settle for a most cost-efficient local (or nearly local) alternative. :huh:

 

Cheers!

 

Gorzag, keep up the good work. I really love the whole feel of the army. I can feel the rot and decomposition coming from your army!

Edited by dreamsofmishra

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