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embuchho

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White is simple.. all you have to do.. here's the untold secret that Warhammer 40K players don't know...

 

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You ready?

 

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Use white primer.

 

That's it! That's all there is to it! Everyone I see always seems to prime in black... ew! Use white primer, and put white paint over it. That's all there is to it. It comes out smooth and nice and even. Yellows too. I learned this from fantasy. I always, always, always primed Bretonnian Knights in white.. then painted over white primer. It brightens all the paint colors, and makes painting white or yellow plausible.

 

I LOVE my Sacred Rose Sisters... they get lots of compliments and look fantastic. It's the color scheme that drew me into 40K really if I think about it.. that old Seraphim Box. And the gorgeous models, which look fantastic in white. You can use contrasting Boltgun Metal for the piping.. do the main armor in white, then do all the piping/et all in black, very carefully. Then drybrush the metal over the black. It works out just fine if you take your time and looks fantastic.

Sensible idea, of course! Thanks for posting it.

 

What do you use for the base coats underneath the fleurs and wings?

 

Do you wash with a gray and then re-highlight with white?

 

How do you get that depth that the black primer usually provides?

What I do personally is paint white over the white primer (which often has a few recesses that are still maybe a little grey, so there's some natural shading involved), then paint chaos black on the details that are going to be metal (fleurs, wings, etc). I paint boltgun metal over the black.

 

I tend not to do as much kickbutt painter shading... I've noticed my style is more of the "keep it simple and clean, use bright colors in good taste, be patient and go over mistakes, and from a tabletop viewing distance of 2 to 3 feet they look good", but I would probably try a wash then rehighlight like you suggested, or paint perhaps a light grey before the white. Light grey wouldn't be too hard to get a good white coat over. I've found I'm much better at drybrushing and building up then I am with washes (personal skills apparently).

 

The Bretonnians I never have to worry about that depth, because their armor is all painted black (over the white primer, yes this seems redundant but it works), then I drybrush metal over that (often Chainmail). The white primer allows the tabards, tunics, etc to have the bright colors that I need. There's so much going on with the heraldry that hordes of shading would simply take too long for me (a regular guy painter) to do.

You're welcome ;)

 

White Does suck.. if you're trying to paint white over black.

 

Now.. a suggestion for going over black primer, since sometimes it's all you have, or you got a model second hand, or you're only doing one section (Black Templars shoulder pad, for example).

 

What I have found works (I did say, a white "Polgara" streak in a black haired Veteran Sister Superior), is to do black, then do a line of dark grey (around shadow grey I think it was), then a light grey (Codex Grey), then white. Just like a great way to get a vibrant red, is to start with Scab Red, then drybrush Red Gore, then drybrush Blood Red. Building up to the color makes it a bit easier to get on over black primer. Going straight yellow or white over the black primer.. yeah.. that's why you don't see many White Scars players... save the ones that prime in white, or do lots of greys building to white.

I collect the Order of the Sacred Rose! I paint their robes red though - i picked out the red robes from a picture in the back of the codex i think it was. Anyway - thats some top advice from Inquisitor Nicole - i prime my Sisters using the white spray paint. Also i'm planning on starting a Bretonnia army some day soon so thats some more good advice right there! Cheers! :)

 

I've started a new pre-Heresy World Eaters army (i know! More white! :)) and i've found Gryphonne Sepia to be a good base. Spray paint white, liberally apply Gryphonne Sepia wash - make sure you let it dry, then slowly build up light drybrushing coats of skull white until you're happy with the white. You should end up with some of the wash still showing in recesses. Looks pretty good i think, and isn't too hard to do which is perfect if you don't have much time to paint.

I collect the Order of the Sacred Rose! I paint their robes red though - i picked out the red robes from a picture in the back of the codex i think it was.

Yeah, between this Witch Hunters Codex and the old Sisters of Battle Codex the robes changed color.. I just continue to use the old color scheme because I like it :rolleyes:

I respectfully and completely disagree with priming in white for speed purposes on for-profit armies.

 

If you prime white, you have no where to high light up to. You -need- layered highlights for an army thats respectable when compared to other showy armies (aside from nids which drybush works). That being said, going back and reverse highlighting from white to black will be just as time consuming as starting on black. Also using that method would take twice as much brush control as normal layering. There is a huge difference between hard and time consuming. While the two sisters I posted took a night each, it was far from difficult; I'm confident any one could do it if they took the time.

 

I think white priming light colored models is a great idea, but it will require an equal amount of time to paint as black priming on a for-profit army. Its in no way an easy fix for a competitively painted army with a difficult (or at least time consuming) color combination.

 

Very nice, Till! I like your templars! Is the GK terminator a templar or a GK? He looks great, either way.

 

Thanks! :) I play him as a Grand master most of the time. As a sort of "fallen from purity" grey knight. Works well for those pesky codex:demons special characters (Fate weaver makes my cry at night)

 

How do you do your white? White is a real pain to paint. For my templar shoulder pads I have to do 6 or so layers. It looks nice at the end but it takes forever. I don't want to do that with 20+ sisters.

 

I have how I do all my models on my thread in the hall of honor forums: http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...howtopic=133215 I think you put a post in there.

 

 

What I do personally is paint white over the white primer (which often has a few recesses that are still maybe a little grey, so there's some natural shading involved), then paint chaos black on the details that are going to be metal (fleurs, wings, etc). I paint boltgun metal over the black.

 

I'm not sure what part of the model on sisters would be grey, they'll all metal. Missing a spot while priming would be an eye sore under close scrutiny. If one is looking to make money, or at least break even on a squad, they need to look good at camera distance; ~6 inches. I can see merit in your method of painting for a table playing army, but not one to make money on resale. Again, if the same amount of effort was taken, the end result wouldn't far differ in the matters of quality or time invested. Just my opinion.

 

Till, those Sisters and those BTs look great!

 

Thanks.

Oh, a comment on this:

The shape of the shoulders are a little odd - I prefer the Cadian or Marine shape that covers the upper arm but I guess it makes sense if firing from a prone position or if the sisters are otherwise able to protect against lateral sword swings.

 

The Sisters have metal armor on underneath the sleeves. A lateral sword slash would clang beneath the pad but against the upper arm armor.

 

Their armor covers their entire body, including head if you give them a helmet.

Anyone try priming with a gray?

 

Then working up to white?

 

I primed white, painted gray, washed dark dark gray, and worked up to white again on an old apothecary marine. Took forever but the result was alright. Not brilliant, but adequate.

 

Priming is not the same as base-coat. Priming with grey is a good idea, but after the fact you should put a base-coat of grey on there or another color you are working with. Depending on the white I suggest graveyard earth which is what I use to base-coat the white to bone white areas. Including paper, bone, and offwhite/ivory cloth.

 

as for missing spots while priming, that is why you go back with a thinned down gray paint and brush that into the recesses where you missed on primer. The sheen of metallic metal showing on through on some areas is a pain. Afterward a careful hand and some dark paint or ink is required to fix the problem. Ran into that on my latest miniature of beasts of chaos shaman.

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