Jump to content

Photo presentation style [PIC HEAVY]


Recommended Posts

Ok, I've been playing around with photo editting, and would like some opinions on styles:

 

Please ignore any matte lines (ghosting around the model) as they're easy to remove with a high res source, and I didn't bother rephoto'ing to try out these techniques....

 

I'd like to know which you prefer and which you hate, and why... I have my own favourites, but as I'm aiming to sell the army I want the pics to be as professional as possible. So without further ado:

 

STYLE A:

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/da_veteranbloody.jpg

 

STYLE B:

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/da_veteranbloody2.jpg

 

STYLE C:

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/da_veteranbloody3.jpg

 

STYLE D:

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/da_veteranbloody4.jpg

 

STYLE E:

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/da_veteranbloody5.jpg

 

STYLE F:

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/da_veteranbloody6.jpg

 

Thanks!

I'd have to say style B or C because of the darker blue background. I feel like it gives the model more depth. The lighter blue in D and E isn't dark enough to be anything but distracting and the white background feels incomplete.

As for the frames around the two, I could go either way. I like both, really.

B.

 

Makes the green 'pop' more, and studies have shown that there is more commercial interest in the darker blue (magazine issues that use that shade of blue either in their title or background, have far higher sales than any other issues - regardless of content.)

I think I've already voted on this mini in CMON, but nonetheless I vote D...

 

The rest doesnt appeal to me much coz:

A & B: the black line in the middle ruins it for me

C: the darker tint kinda ruins my perception of the colors, and makes me notice discrepancies between the background and the lighting on the mini

E & F: I'm not comfortable with the amount of "free space" around the mini, but then again that's just me (besides there are more to choose from :P )

 

My $0.02 :)

I vote for style D. The blue to white gradient is subtle in comparison to style C and is not distracting from the model. Also, the fact that it's cropped closer eliminates any negative space that would take the focus away from the model. I also like that D doesn't have the black border. The border in style A & B draws the attention to the center of the image rather than focusing on the model. This causes you to have to consciously refocus on the model which will make the viewer less interested in looking at the image.

 

My $0.02 - for what it's worth.

 

PS - I really like the paint job on this model.

  • 2 years later...

@black.water:

All hail the Threadomancer. Arise, Thread from the Distant Past, ARISE!!!

 

@Inq. Engel:

Try this:

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/images/commissions/backsheet_light.jpg

 

It should be noted however, that photoshopping in the background does not work as well as simply printing the gradient, putting the mini on it and photographing it. The gradient REALLY helps the camera get a handle on the colour balance in the image, and you get sharper and clearer photos as a result.

It should be noted however, that photoshopping in the background does not work as well as simply printing the gradient, putting the mini on it and photographing it. The gradient REALLY helps the camera get a handle on the colour balance in the image, and you get sharper and clearer photos as a result.

 

Not to mention it saves you the headache of having to cut out the model from whatever background you photographed it on, before then applying the gradient.

 

Photo-editting already takes enough time without having to add MORE work.

 

 

DV8

Professionally I don't any of those work and I always cringe when I see photos taken on the white or gradient. Pure white takes away from the mini by overpowering it while the fading sky doesn't seem natural or even logical for displaying the mini (ask yourself what the gradient is supposed to do and if the colors support the model). The best look for displaying the model and working with both the highlight and shading is a 60-80% gray background. This works better because it doesn't overpower the shadows or the highlights and it keeps the eye focused on the the miniature without competing with it for attention.

I didn't want to derail Winterdyne's thread, but practically all of the pics I've taken in the last couple of years use the gray.

 

This is a bit overexposed but it is an example of what I'm talking about:

http://www.twolandscreative.com/wip/40k/ma...swap2010fin.jpg

I don't think there is any issues with offering alternatives. I think it's a good thing you're offering other options.

 

After looking at the grey background vs blue gradients imo the blue gradient helps show the models details better. I prefer a lighter shade of blue so there is an enhancement to the models edges without overpower your visual senses.

 

The grey gives a natural feel to the picture but makes it harder to distinguish the model itself. The shadows of the model will be grey in nature making it harder to pick out from the background. The edge of the will be lost taking away sharpness. There are positives to the grey but I think it's far from ideal. Once again only my opinion.

 

Definitely there has to be balance. Not too blue but not too white. This may change for each model and should be adjusted according so. A blue background for a blue model would not be ideal.

Indeed, there are pros and cons to what type of background you use when photographing your models, and it all depends heavily on your camera, the light set up, and yes the model itself. Certain models just won't photograph well on certain backgrounds, particularly colored backgrounds, and that's something we have to work with (the easiest of which is just having a variety of different backgrounds to use).

 

I myself have a wide variety of backdrops printed up to use, but I just so happen to use the purple one a lot because it always seems to work.

 

Pre-Heresy World Eater. My bog-standard purple backdrop.

 

Lord Commander Eidolon. This one has a light-blue backdrop because, y'know...the model is all purple...

 

Ulrik the Slayer. This one has a faded cool-grey backdrop (think the sky on a cloudy day) that complements the cool colors of the model.

 

Justicar Weiss. I found a brown backdrop for this model really accentuated the overall colors of the model well and provided a good contrast (plus the purple background would've clashed with the blade and the OSL in the collar.

 

It really doesn't matter. what backdrop you use, as long as it complements the model well, and doesn't affect the color or appearance. The key element(s) I think that are crucial are a clean layout, without close cropping (you don't want the model to be TOO close to the edges of the image) or being too zoomed away (close enough for detail, but not too close as to be come claustrophobic), a border of some sort to frame the image, and a signature so that people know who painted it! Okay if you prefer anonymity then that last one isn't crucial, but the first two are! ;)

 

 

DV8

See, I don't think you should be trying so hard to break the model from the environment. It gives the image a very unnatural feel and confuses the focal point of the image. The focal point shouldn't be the edge of the model. That's not where the detail is or really anything more than a general shape. You want the focal point to be on the paint job within the model's silhouette and to do that, you need to have the background subordinate to the model. It is true that it may not give as sharp as contrast with the edge as a white background, but the end result makes it far easier to examine the paint job itself and if properly lit shouldn't cause confusion between the shadows and background.

 

Secondly, a standard colored backgrounds can further complicated the overall aesthetic appeal by clashing with the scheme of the painted model. While you could use this to your advantage by making a orange model "pop" more or adjust it to better show off the model, the simple blue gradients just don't have the same professional appeal. Do a search on Coolmini for space marine and list the results from highest rated to lowest and I think you'll see that quite a few of the top rated minis that use coordinating backdrops or neutral colors have better aesthetic appeal than the ones that use the simple blue to white gradient.

 

In fact, on further checking, the blue gradient seems to have been fairly common around '04-'07 while newer models tend to use the gray or colored "burst" backgrounds that are desaturated and toned to match the colors of the model. However, all of that is irrelevant if you find it easier to work with the gradient. I'd recommend actually using a printed backdrop in that case since you won't have to cut out each photo to place on the digital backdrop.

 

On your whitepoint issues... see if you can set a custom whitepoint based around the light setup you use. It took me a while to get one calibrated for my photos, but if you can get a standard whitepoint you won't have to worry about changing backgrounds and having the color tone adjust on you.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.