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Rising Blades of Viterra


Dusktiger

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Note: i'll be putting all my pics in the first post so that y'all dont have to scroll through to see newer shots.

well, after alot of indecision on how i want to color my chapter, i decided to go with a white armor with snot green chest plates and shoulder pads. and then for added contrast, i'm using squad and shapter iconography from the Dark Angels decals. Finally, my chapter symbol's an inverted DA badge, since originally i was going to call them the rising blades of viterra, but a friend said shorthanding it sounds better.

edit: started using a photobox i made with parchment paper. tell me what you think of how it makes the minis look

so here's some pics of what i have:

Land Raider Terminus Pattern (magnetized).

all the sponsons, plus the single barrel lascannons, are magnetized so i can switch them off to another set.

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Predator Destructor (magnetized).

gallery_39941_3182_572745.jpg

LasCannon Marine.

gallery_39941_3182_654654.jpg

Heavy Bolter Marine.

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Missile Launcher Marine.

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Plasma Cannon Marine.

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pic of my banner so far, plus 3 marines with soft armor painted in.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y77/dusktiger/SM/001.jpg

squad leader with highlighting done with micron pen.

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banner marine so far.

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first half of squad 2 done, plus standard bearer

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my venerable dread, still being painted.

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command squad and company master

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for the time being, im not using the DA codex. and unless they come up with an update to it, i'll continue not using their codex. but your also forgetting another existing chapter who's white with green chest; Mentors legion. i'd explain why im using an inverted DA symbol for the chapter, but that would take too long; much as all discussion about the symbology of things does.

 

The reason im using DA-style company markings is cause:

  1. means i dont have to color silly trim or stripes on an already 2-tone armour scheme, thereby making them look too 'busy' and taking up too much time to paint.
  2. red's a better choice for squad markings when your tanks will be predominantly white.
  3. lets me easily claim i'm a DA successor later on if they revise the DA codex into something i really like.
  4. it looks cooler than the white ultramarines symbols, and i like the style of the red ones more ;) lol.

for the time being, im not using the DA codex. and unless they come up with an update to it, i'll continue not using their codex. but your also forgetting another existing chapter who's white with green chest; Mentors legion. i'd explain why im using an inverted DA symbol for the chapter, but that would take too long; much as all discussion about the symbology of things does.

 

The reason im using DA-style company markings is cause:

  1. means i dont have to color silly trim or stripes on an already 2-tone armour scheme, thereby making them look too 'busy' and taking up too much time to paint.
  2. red's a better choice for squad markings when your tanks will be predominantly white.
  3. lets me easily claim i'm a DA successor later on if they revise the DA codex into something i really like.
  4. it looks cooler than the white ultramarines symbols, and i like the style of the red ones more :P lol.

 

 

evil i was about to mention they looked like mentors evil

i like the scheme is not bad but i will try wash them or use some layering with bleached bone just thought

 

i thought about washing with bone, or using an ink, but i decided against it. in person, they're a satin white that has alot of depth to it, and it makes them look like they're just anally retentive about honouring their suits by keeping them well maintained. ill prolly add a master of the forge who babies all their armor and thus why its so clean.

 

you really cant tell in the pictures since anything short of an SLR just isnt going to properly show how the white looks in-person. and suffice it to say, im not buying a $1200 camera just for people to adore them online with the depth they have in person, :mellow: lol. but trust me when i say that in person, they have full detail and dont need any highlighting or washing. period. its just the way the pictures turn out. and yes, i also photoshop them before posting, since i'm a graphic artist. but like i said, a $150 camera just isnt going to show the depth of the white, regardless of how i backdrop them.

Could I honestly also impose and say that a slight flesh-wash or black-wash over the recesses would really help to make them look like they were painted better? Maybe even a light blue wash, to make it look more defined.. Honestly, I'm not doubting your painting skills, but it really does look like they aren't finished being painted yet..

Nah, that isn't harsh, it's just how Canadian's talk to each other ;)

 

Let me try to explain the whole 'why everybody want to see these guys with a wash' thing.

 

Take a look at the banner in the last picture, see how the shadow helps define the folds and wrinkles? It makes for depth and adds deatil to the banner. Then, if we look at the marines legs, we don't see the shadows because the detail isn't as deep as the folds on the banner. Since the shadows don't show, we lose a lot of the details. This is natural and happens with any colour (if you think white is bad, try black!).

 

Miniaturess, by nature of being minis, lack the depth necessary to create the shadows we should see on a real life sized version of the miniature. Since we don't get shadow on the details and we need shadow to really see the details, we have to paint a shadow. The easiest way to do this is with a wash... for really white whites, we'd want a very subtle shadow. Crumple up a paper towel and put it on your kitchen table--the paper towel is a very white white and the shadows are a light grey. You want to capture that light grey in the depths of the details.

 

Do this for me, and for yourself: paint up some space marine legs, just one space marine worth, in that bright white. Once they are dry, mix up a tiny bit of grey paint--just 25-50% grey, not too dark and mix it with 10 equal parts of water. Mix it really well. Then take a very tiny bit of that mix on your brush and carefully run it over the detail grooves on one leg. If you slop it, wipe it off any raised areas; you just want a bit in the grooves.

 

After it drys, if you used just the right amount of the grey mix, you should see just a slight shadow in the detail grooves. Lighten or darken that mix for more or less shadow. That will pick out the details and look a lot more realistic while maintaining the really clean white you want. Try it out, it's only a few minutes of your life you will have wasted if you don't like it ;)

I know what you need you need to outline the models in black... go to a art store pick up a 005 sakuras micro pen and you can out line the model and it makes it pop wich you are curently lacking

 

i was actually looking for one of those for writing on scrolls, but i cant find any stores in my region that sells them. do any of the canadian members know which stores sell sakura pens? would a Michael's have them? cause i know staples and office depot dont. theyll get a 0.010 tip, but thats as small as theyll go. no one seems to sell the 0.005's here that i can tell.

i was actually looking for one of those for writing on scrolls, but i cant find any stores in my region that sells them. do any of the canadian members know which stores sell sakura pens? would a Michael's have them? cause i know staples and office depot dont. theyll get a 0.010 tip, but thats as small as theyll go. no one seems to sell the 0.005's here that i can tell.
Yeah, I got my pens at Michael's. "Pigma" brand archival ink micron pens in 01 and 005 sizes (those translate to .25mm and .20mm respectively). I've used the 005 for purity seal writing and its pretty good.
I really like your use of DA chapter symbol. If I may propose something- short handing the name to Rising Blades could be a better option - it works better with the symbol, and the word Viterra doesn't really have much meaning to a casual guy who's not familiar with your chapters fluff.
Yeah, I got my pens at Michael's. "Pigma" brand archival ink micron pens in 01 and 005 sizes (those translate to .25mm and .20mm respectively). I've used the 005 for purity seal writing and its pretty good.

thats good to know. i was gonna go there tomorrow anyways. least i know they sell the size i wanted. ill prolly get a black and a grey if they have that color too.

The green is very sharp to the white, with the red sorta blending in (sorry Masterchef is on TV :D). It looks good, although I feel there should be a bit more green from say the waist down. And from the looks of things your paint is a tad thick...

 

And surely that plasma pistol should have a blue part where the plasma should be showing ;)

And surely that plasma pistol should have a blue part where the plasma should be showing ;)

 

yea, i just havent gotten to painting in his pistol yet. aside from that, i think its just minor clean-up and he's done. for the sake of speading up doing squad-sized painting, i think thats as detailed as ill go for now. later, when im not being asked to play a match every other weekend, ill see about further detailing them.

 

All in all, I'd say as some of my first marines, its 'damn' good work! and being as they're some of my first, any dogged persistence that I do more advanced painting techniques on my initial beginning army would just be unreasonable pressure on someone, wouldn't you agree? before i did this, i used to paint model cars, and i get alot of good comments on how nice they always turn out. i think i'll put my new micron pen to use on some of those later on to further make their interiors POP, especially on the seating.

Are you kidding, we all know that new painters with new armies should be able to blend and wash and do all sorts of advanced painting techniques ^_^ . Where's your GoldenDemon man!

 

For tabletop perspective I think those are great. Base the models and get their weapons done and I'd be happy to have them fight by my army.

 

Keep up the good work.

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