Flat Transfer, Round Shoulder Plate

[Tranc]

So I consider myself reasonably good at painting freehand designs, but my inverted omegas never turn out quite as perfect as the Ultramarine decals that come with your standard box of space marines. I'd like to start using transfers, but I've hit a snag: space marine shoulder plates are round and I can't get the entire decal to lie flat!

My decals will form wrinkles or ridges if I try to get all of the edges to adhere to the curved surface.

 

Is there any secret technique to getting them to lay flat? I've tried coating the shoulder with a layer of gloss varnish, and then re-applying the varnish after the transfer has been applied, but the ridges are still noticable.

 

-Tranc

P.S. What does auto-reactive mean in the context of shoulder plates? Thanks!

[Debris]

So I consider myself reasonably good at painting freehand designs, but my inverted omegas never turn out quite as perfect as the Ultramarine decals that come with your standard box of space marines. I'd like to start using transfers, but I've hit a snag: space marine shoulder plates are round and I can't get the entire decal to lie flat!

My decals will form wrinkles or ridges if I try to get all of the edges to adhere to the curved surface.

 

Is there any secret technique to getting them to lay flat? I've tried coating the shoulder with a layer of gloss varnish, and then re-applying the varnish after the transfer has been applied, but the ridges are still noticable.

 

-Tranc

P.S. What does auto-reactive mean in the context of shoulder plates? Thanks!

 

Micro Sol is the answer to your decal problems. Click here for details. Micro Sol website

[SpeakerfortheDead]

A short term solution might be to slice above the U all the way up, so that when it lays down there is a place for the excess to go. (ie, under itself without bunching)

 

Might work?

[chromedog]

Micro-sol is the shizz for this. It softens the skin of the decal allowing it to properly follow the curves. There is also another liquid called micro-set. you can get both of these here, so I'll expect other places would have them more readily available. You apply the decal, paint with the 'sol one and it softens the film allowing you to smooth it out.

 

Auto-reactive in this sense means that it moves out of the way to allow a proper range of motion for the arm. If it didn't move independantly of the arm, then the marine wouldn't be able to move his arms out to his sides without the pauldrons decapitating him.

[rat of vengence]

You need a decal setting solution. You do need to be very careful, it can disolve the paint, and makes the decal a tad fragile to apply, but it conforms to curves really nicely. Trimming any excess transfer from the edges helps to.

 

I use Ted's Decal Set, but I think it is only available in Australia. Like all good things <_<

 

RoV

[striker8]

I will refer you yo this thread from a few days ago decal thread

[glayvin34]

I've been using microset and microsol, and they are useful, but I think the most important part is the gloss coat before you lay down the decal. I tried just using microsol and microset without the gloss varnish I usually use, and I got wrinkles in addition to a more transparent white on the decal, which is bad. I ended up having to cut the wrinkles off and fill in with paint , which just doesn't look as good as it could.

 

EDIT: In particular with Ultramarines, after you lay down the decal, the part that usually wrinkles due to the shoulder pad is the clear part in the middle of the symbol. After the decal has been applied, that part usually sticks up and you can just shave it off with a sharp exacto.

[ninjaturtlethug]

P.S. What does auto-reactive mean in the context of shoulder plates? Thanks!

 

 

"The shoulder pads of this suit contain small, auto-responsive plates which burst outwards in a micro-explosion to counteract the energy of an incoming attack and prevent penetration." Thats a quote from one of the imperial armour books.

[winterdyne]

Decal tutorial here - http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/winterdyne_tutorial3.pdf

[Brother_Ovis]

In addition to all previous sound advice I will say this: trim as much of the transparent decal base as you can, leaving only the motif itself. The smaller the decal, the less will it wrinkle after application, especially on convex surfaces like shoulder and knee pads.

 

It needs to be said also that in some instances some wrinkling is inavoidable - from my experience power armour knee pads/round decals is one of them, the surface is just too convex and there is too much excess material around the decal's edge to adhere smoothly. After all it stretches only to a minimal extent.

[PHS]

I've had ok results using methylated spirits to soften decals instead of microsol

[Ironwulf]

From my experience, Walthers Solvaset seems to soften decals a bit more than MicroSol or MicroSet. Walthers is a model train supply store, with stuff available online. From what I've read online, it can eat through some decal films on aftermarket decals, or on "print-your-own" films.

 

YMMV

[Griffon Games]

Also, although this has changed somewhat in recent years, GW decals have a tendency to be on the thick side. Even with Micro Sol it can take some work to get them to lie flat over a shoulder pad. Using all of the techniques (trimming, solvent) you should be able to get it but it can be some work. You'll also want to be sure to clear coat (gloss) over the decals to really get them to blend after application - otherwise you may end up with unsightly visible edge lines. The gloss coat will smooth those out - then a nice coat of flat will make them nearly invisible.