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Brother Tual

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Not as large a collection as Number 6... actually, this and my one PAGK is all I have painted.. my primary army is Ultramarines, so they get most of the paint brush love..

 

But, here is one.. 4 more to follow in rapid order.. (atleast a week) as I want to take them to a tourney.. This is my test piece.. I am pretty happy with it..

 

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p449/brother_tual/Picture010.jpghttp://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p449/brother_tual/Picture011.jpghttp://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p449/brother_tual/Picture012.jpg

 

and a Non flash pic..

 

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p449/brother_tual/Picture.jpg

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The gold is a mix colour based on shining gold - I added browns and yellows with a bit of green till I got a brass colour that is not so metallic.. I just highlight it with bleached bone and work it down with babdad black wash (watered down a bit) and just reverse layer/blend/tone it.. then touch up the edges with bleached bone again and a touch of white here and there.. the sword hilt got a bit too much on the go over..

 

The grey is not really NMM - I didnt follow any real principles except for on the sword.. Its all just blending dark grey through to light grey and a white highlight.. I worked my babdad black magic on some parts that were too bright and left the legs a little darker -

 

The red is what really worked out well beyond my expectations.. thats just red gore glazes on layered grey with blood red blended on the edges..

 

Here is how I do the grey...

 

Step 1 -

 

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p449/brother_tual/Picture014.jpg

 

This is my base colour - I have undercoated with black spray -

With watered down adeptus battle grey (ABG) I covered the model -

I then used asurmen blue with a bit of ultra blue mixed in as a wash

I then did a second wash with babdad black - this gives the dark grey with a tone of blue in it..

 

Step 2

 

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p449/brother_tual/Picture015.jpg

 

is ABG on about 90% of the surface -

 

Step 3

 

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p449/brother_tual/Picture016.jpg

 

is codex grey on about 80% of the ABG surface (I am layering)

 

step 4

 

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p449/brother_tual/Picture017.jpg

 

Is fortress grey on 20% of the codex grey

 

Step 5

 

this is the part that makes the greys seem to blend -

 

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p449/brother_tual/Picture019.jpg

 

If you noticed in the previous pic, the greys are alot brighter than my base coat - I want that dark look of the 41st millenium - so I now glaze with babdad black - I start with a large area - almost the whole surface and gradually over several coats work into the area just out side the vents on his helmet - MAKE SURE THAT THE GLAZE IS DRY BEFORE YOU DO ANOTHER COAT!! babdad black congeals rather quickly, you have about a 2-3 second window to move it around - if it starts to congeal on you, stop, let it dry and then continue with a fresh dob... otherwise, if you keep going, you will get lumps and un-even tones -

 

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p449/brother_tual/Picture020.jpg

 

Step 6

 

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p449/brother_tual/Picture021.jpg

 

Then touch the edges with fortress grey and then white similar to a highlight (but as the colours are close it will almost blend) and you get the dark through to a bright white - Obviously It still is rather dark because the rest of the model is still only based..

 

And thats how I do my grey.. its not NMM - NMM would shade and tone in the opposite direction but still have the highlights on the edges..

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and the gold...

 

Its just that gold colour I made - straight onto the dark grey -

 

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p449/brother_tual/Picture023-1.jpg

 

 

then a heavy babdad wash - I made it heavier than normal as I need these done for a tourney on the weekend.. normally two normal washes.. this is one - not the best -

 

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p449/brother_tual/Picture024-1.jpg

 

Let it dry and just extreme highlight with bleached bone - becareful - its hard to repair because its a washed colour that you are painting on..

 

 

 

 

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p449/brother_tual/Picture027.jpg

 

without the flash - and a bit of blurr -

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p449/brother_tual/Picture026.jpg

 

next, you can touch the edges with white - and I thinned down the bleached bone on top with the orginal colour but its watered down and I use blending to get it to not stand out..

 

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p449/brother_tual/Picture031.jpg

 

and without flash again.. and its all done.. (I do the same on the recessed writing too and I did the same wash thing on the grey at the same time... thats why it gets darker)

 

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p449/brother_tual/Picture030.jpg

 

 

Nice and simple wouldnt you agree? end result is ok with not too much fuss or skill/ability/knowledge... the way I like it..

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Yeah it is. He was the main character of the first several Horus Heresy novels and a real awesome guy. Worthy of referencing on your GKT.

 

P.S. I wish i had half your skill, while I like the more metalic look and brighter color schemes your ability is unquestionable. I've tried several times to produce effects like that and failed miserably... you should have seen the first time I tried to add lightning effects to my GKT force weapons. What a disaster that was.

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Speaking of that... would you or anyone else happen to know how you properly add the lightning to a nemesis force weapon? I did the blue color scheme for the blades to mimic the energy then put a asuryan wash over the top to make it look more fluid... but how does one properly put the lightning effect on there?
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Yes very much like that... only on the blade instead of the haft. I have ice blue with asuryan wash weapon blades and i wanted to put white lightning all over them to simulate the psy energy. Every time i try it ends up not looking random enough or just becomes a tangled mess. And on a hammer head its even worse due to the multiple angles of the head.
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put white lightning all over them to simulate the psy energy
thats going to be hard as to make lightning look good you need to use two colours - sadly, the colour you are using as your base coat is the colour I would use with the lightning... how dark does the blue wash make it?

 

If the blue was makes it considerably darker - Mainly towards the hilt? I would keep the bolts to a minimum, maybe only three? start with your blue - start at the hilt and draw (with your brush) a jagged line - then fork it about a third of the way up and then fork that once more - you dont need to fork in a "Y" shape either, one can continue and the other branches, it is less cluttered then, each branch does not need to continue the full length of the others either, less is more in this case.. .. blend this into the top which I assume is more closer to the ice blue... Once you have your 'path', get pure white, as small an amount as you can with a fine brush, give one wipe on paper to remove excess and start at the bottom but you have to get the white in the center of your 'path' and it has to be fine - because you are using such minimal paint, you may need to strengthen the white over several attampts - I would travel only up to about a 2/3 rds of your weapon with the blue and about 2/3 of your 'path' with white...

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Thanks mate - It does take some time -

 

Well - I didnt get all 5 finished in time - I got 3 done though and the last two are in base colours - I could have tried to rush on thursday night but I would rather take a painting hit that rush my hobby and not enjoy it -

 

Anyway - I scored 2 wins - 2 draws and one loss on the weekend - I got the best sports award - If you want to read up on how the GKT termies performed - Click HERE and scroll down a bit for the first of 5 batreps...

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