quick tutorial on scultping details...

[stinkenheim]

i'm posting this in the space wolf painting and converting stickie at the top of our page but thought i'd put it here aswell for any who want a few quick tips on things like wolf tooth necklaces and talismans that sort of thing... feel free to add your own tutorials here as well i'm not too proud to admit that i don't know everything and many people here do this better than me...

 

first up, wolf tail talismans...

 

take a small cone of greenstuff, smaller than you want the finished talisman to be...

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/stinkenheim/DSC00509.jpg

 

then using a sculpting tool or knife blade (make sure your tools are wet to stop the greenstuff sticking) score lines from top to bottom, this will lengthen the cone. when you get to the bottom of the talisman pull a couple of the strands outward slightly, and pull a few out from the sides to give a nice look to it.

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/stinkenheim/DSC00511.jpg

 

then square off the top slightly and also take a small piece out of the top corners so the top looks something like this /-\

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/stinkenheim/DSC00512.jpg

 

then take a small ball of greenstuff and place it on the top, you might need to shape it slightly when its there but it should look like the tail comes out and then expands slightly (gives the impression that the metal clasp is pinching the hair together)

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/stinkenheim/DSC00513.jpg

 

then lastly score a small line just above the bottom of the ball of greenstuff... if you want you can instead add a small sauage of greenstuff but this is quicker and easier and looks fine. it just gives you th slight rim that you find on the plastic taismans.

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/stinkenheim/DSC00515.jpg

 

and there you go, a finished wolf tail talisman...

[stinkenheim]

next up, runic charms and wolf tooth necklaces...

 

for the charm take a blob of greenstuff (yes 'blob' is a technical term... i went on the course you see)

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/stinkenheim/DSC00516.jpg

 

flatten it and square off some of the edges, try and make it look irregular if you can

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/stinkenheim/DSC00517.jpg

 

then using the tip of your scultping tool (or if its a really small charm your scalpel... jst be carefull if you put it in your move to moisten the blade cos tongues take ages to stp bleeding) and score in your chosen rune and a small dot at the top of the charm

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/stinkenheim/DSC00518.jpg

 

for teeth i find if you add a small, thin cone of greenstuff and shape it with a slight bend in it you should get a nice tooth like shape. if you can, a small nick at the top gets the shape of roots. but make sure you add a dot like you did with the charm.

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/stinkenheim/DSC00519.jpg

 

well now you need something to attatch them to, so take a thin sausage of greenstuff and place it just above

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/stinkenheim/DSC00520.jpg

 

and lastly using some more thin strips of greenstuff make the mtal rings, or leather straps that attatch the teeth and charms to the necklace... place one end in the small dots you made and then cut the sausage just above the necklace strap... and voila, a quick necklace is done :D

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/stinkenheim/DSC00521.jpg

[Growler67]

Some Generalized Sculpting tips. I borrowed this from another forum (Thanks Rex) but did a little editing from my personal experiences:

 

Tools- I use a Hollenback 3 dental tool. It's kind of hard to find but it has a cutting edge with a smooth round side to it on both ends. One end is rotated 90 degrees. You should also have a pair of Haemostats and needle nose pliers available. (Google it if you don't know what they are).

Anyway, the hollenback is good for figures with rounded features with short straight sections. Look at human/tyranid figures. They are mostly rounded parts with some short angled bits. Look at marines. They’re mostly straight or angled parts with a few rounded parts (head).

 

If you're sculpting marines you might want to ALSO get a tool with some straight edges to it. Try one of the spatula type tools. I use stainless steel dental tools for a specific reason. Greenstuff is sticky. If the tools have less pitting in the metal then the putty will stick to it less. If you're using Milliput you may want to have some very soft brushes nearby.

So, that brings me to media.

There are at least nine specific types that I can think of right off the bat. Since they're the most common, I'll talk about the following, greenstuff, brownstuff, whitestuff, milliput (white). First I'll talk about what the media is used for, then I'll tell you how to use it.

 

Greenstuff- By far the most common mini sculpting media, greenstuff (or simply 'green') is widely available and is useful for filling out any type of mini. If you've never used it before, don't be intimidated. (I was intimidated for quite some time, until I was coached by the Perry twins at a Games Day after party.) It becomes a lot easier with practice, and believe me, you have plenty of material to practice with. Use this media at first. Become somewhat comfortable with using it, then you can move on to a different media.

 

When you work with it (not now), use a hobby knife to cut out an equal portion of yellow and blue media. Remember to mash it together until the entire lump is the same color, then mash it two more times, just to make sure. Try to use only the amount you need. Mash it into gaps and make sure it's sticking to your work surface before you start to model it. Once you're certain it's not just going to fall off, use your tool to copy the patterns around it. Keep your tool wet with saliva to keep the green from sticking to it... yes, it's perfectly safe, and yes I said saliva.

 

Working with green can be tricky at first. It keeps sticking to your tools and it picks up your fingerprints quite well. The first few minutes of working with green should be used to make the basic structure of whatever it is you're sculpting.

 

If you're being ambitious and you're making an entire figure, you should use some sort of 'sculpting blank' or a wire frame made from paper clips. To make a wire frame, start by straightening a paper clip. Then using your haemostats, or better yet, needle nose pliers. Bend it to the exact proportions of the bone structure of your target model. Don't worry about the ribs and such, just the feet, legs, and spine. You'll be using a lump of green for the rib area and a cross member will form the arms later. You should leave a little wire past the feet and clamp on a haemostat.

 

If you're making an entire figure you should start by making the individual muscle structures. Then filling the gaps between, as you normally would. You can find ample pictures on line to help you define where and what shape the muscles should be. Also, remember that even very fat people have those same muscles. If this is your first time it's better to just sculpt people with average muscle structure until you get the hang of it. Otherwise use an "armature" as they are availavle from several sources these days (see links at the end).

 

Brownstuff- No, not poo. It's an aluminum based putty that hardens to nearly the strength of metal. It's very useful in making weaponry on models. It's stiffer structure makes it resistant to breakage at widths down to 1/16th of an inch. It can also be filed and shaved to make sharp edges. Use this for making very hard edged or thin details like swords, guns, and banners.

 

Similar to using green, brown will stick to things, and should be used with an internal structure. However, you can make a sword by rolling it out on a non-stick surface. You can place a strip of styrene on either side of your media and use a roller to mash it down. The styrene will keep it from getting too thin. Once it has had a little time to set you can cut some of it away with a hobby knife. Then let it set completely. Afterward you can sharpen the sword with a file.

 

Whitestuff- I don't recommend using white at all. It's the cheaper cousin of green and GW was trying to save money by marketing it as a green alternative. It sucks. It doesn't mix well and there will almost always be some chips of blue floating around in your media. If you have some and want to try it, use it the same way as you would use green, but mash it up as much as you dare. It should also be noted that it should NEVER be used to make thin structures like swords and guns. It sometimes chips and breaks for no good reason.

 

Milliput (white)- This could be the best media for making faces... ever. It sticks a little but that can be avoided by wetting your tools with water. It can be used to form ridges, but it should be noted that white milliput hardens to the consistency of porcelain. Once hard, it can be filed, drilled, and shaped using a Dremel or pin vise and some patience. When working with it, once you have the basic shape, you can remove tool marks and continue refining the shape using a wet paintbrush. This stuff is sweet, but try using the green and brown before using white milliput.

 

General Sculpting Tips/Ideas- Some tools can be used for scraping and cutting hardened material. The tools you use for sculpting soft material should ONLY BE USED FOR SCULPTING SOFT MATERIAL!!! You’ll be really really sorry you broke your only hollenback… really sorry.

 

If you keep your tool wet everything will come out better. (that also applies to sculpting)

 

If you're good at shooting long distance you're most likely good at sculpting. Use the same breathing technique. There is a natural pause in your breathing just as you're exhaling. Use that time to hold your breath for a moment and sculpt that one little tiny detail.

 

Lighting is just as important for picture taking and painting as it is for sculpting. Make it bright over your work area. As bright as you can stand it, because you don't have to worry about what it will do to your media, unlike painting where too much heat will make it dry too fast.

 

Smoothing- after you've pushed the media into place with your fingers you'll want to remove your finger prints. You'll also want to remove tool marks once you've started refining your model. Wet your tool and smooth the media by wiping your tool across it. Be careful not to pull the media away from the target area. If you need to you can smooth one direction a few times and then smooth the other direction.

 

Scales- scales can be made by applying small ropes of media and, starting from the top, mashing the media down into a tooth like design. ( \/\/\/\/\/\/\/ ) Then, in between the teeth, mash the remaining media down into another row of teeth. Shape the teeth so they are uniformly pointy. Using the broad side of a hollenback you can make a small indentation in the middle of each scale, or you can use a spatula to flatten them out.

 

Feathers- To make feather type designs, start by making scales as above. Flatten the points slightly and make two small indentations, lengthwise, in the middle of the feather ( \||/ ). You may want to leave the indentation out of small feathers and use it only in larger ones. If there is room to do the small indentations there is most likely room to do striations in the feather. Take note of which direction the feather is pointed. (The pointy end of the feather is the part that attaches to a bird.) Use a NEW hobby knife blade to make diagonal lines in the feather, in the direction that the feather is pointed starting from the center ridge and moving toward the edge and back. Be careful not to damage that central ridge. Take note of how real feathers grow on an animal. Look at them from a distance. Do they all look the same?

 

Fur- To make fur use the same method as making scales except don’t be worried about making the points straight. Don’t be worried about making them uniform either. Take note of how much fur grows on an animal at any given point. Look at it from a distance. Does all the hair look the same? Generally I start at the tip or outside edges and work up/inward. This provides a much better “layered” look/effect. Shorter strokes for shorter fur and longer for longer. A short twist or “flip” with the tip of your knife or tool at the end of the stroke will add some character as you can show motion either by the model or wind if the pose is stationary.

 

Hair- To make hair on a male human head, use very little media to form it. Real hair isn’t particularly thick. Even shabby hair is only a few inches thick. Compare that to the width of the average human head. It’s combined thickness (both sides) should be less than the total width of the head. Short hair is merely a wisp of hair. Military style hair can be simulated by poking at the media with a dental probe. (Poke a lot, but not too deep, you really can’t overdo it.) The longer the hair you want the more you’ll want to slice at the media. Make sure there are no rips in the media before you allow it to harden. The best way I’ve found to simulate a part in the hair is by using two pieces of media, one for each side of the hair.

 

Female hair is a bit trickier. It can be simply longer than male hair or it can be fashioned entirely differently. To make pony tails, form a round head of hair. Make cuts in the media with a new hobby knife blade. Make all the cuts end at a central point on the back of the head, on the sides, for two pony tails. (Don’t forget the part in the middle.) Once that hardens completely, pretend it’s your ex and drill into the back of her head. Insert a wire and bend it into the shape you want the pony tail to be. You can make the hair clip/band by rolling up a small ball of media and place it against the head, around the wire. Make some simple rings. If you want it to be a decorative piece, make the rings then add something later, after all the hair has hardened. If you want to make a ‘scrunchie’ use a larger ring of media and mash random shapes into it.

 

 

Some links that may be helpful for tools and other sculpting supplies:

 

http://www.ebobminiatures.com/products/tools.htm

 

http://www.michtoy.com/MTSCnewSite/supplie.../sculpting.html

 

http://www.jeffvalentstudios.com/store/ind...ex&cPath=16

 

Sculpting/Painting related articles:

 

http://www.things-to-make-and-do.co.uk/scu...g-54mm-man.html

 

http://www.tbforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=2384

 

For insipration on Converting:

 

http://www.prophet-miniatures.com/ Just take a gander at the Space Wolf Section..............

 

ETA: UK sorce for Blank Armature in 54mm: http://www.historexagents.com/shop/hxprodu...roductCode=FR54

[stinkenheim]

thanks for the useful information and some really great links :devil:

[Growler67]

thanks for the useful information and some really great links :)

 

I know for tools and supplies I listed sources in the US, but what I linked will give you visual information and ideas of what to look for in Europe/UK from whatever similar kind of source you can find. Perhaps even printing the pictures to take to a shop to see if they can order it for you. Happy to share and help when I can offer it :)

[Skoll Mooneater]

Thanks for the tutorial and the info. One thing i would like to ask...Do you use the greenstuff immediately after you mash it together or you let some time pass?

[stinkenheim]

i personally get the basic shape down pretty quick but then leave it at least 10 mins before i sculpt into it.

 

i also find it easier to have a few models on the go so i can for example, go around getting all the blobs for the wolf tails in place and then by the time i go back to the first one it should have cured slightly so i can add detail more easily.

 

Andy

[Growler67]

Ambient conditions will affect curing/working times as well. Temperature, humidity and such as well as ventilation (room fan for instance) and yes, even lighting. A desk lamp with an incandescent or halogen bulb will give off heat and depending on it's proximity to the work area may affect things considerably (within 12 inches especially). Just something to keep in mind.

[stinkenheim]

i also found this article quite helpfull... it contains lots of basic hints and tips and also discusses things like sculpting faces and entire models... it has a coupleof pages later on where it deals with small details like chain, feathers, books and pouches and such like, so just stick with it and it should help....

 

http://www.miez.nl/putty-n-paint/tutes/sculpting_tut01.pdf

[Decoy]

Thanks for all these hints and links, folks. I can't sculpt, paint, or ... well, I can't do anything regarding the non-slaughter side of the hobby that well. Major help here, especially the breathing thing in regards to sculpting. I would never have guessed that it applies to greenstuff as well as shooting.

[Gyson_Vore]

Very nice Tutorial, should make it alot easier to wolf up any marine. Do you have any tips on how to texture larger patterns of fur, such as pelts?

[WG Vrox]

g. I would never have guessed that it applies to greenstuff as well as shooting

 

And painting detailed areas,

 

Thanks for all the info, I love reading shared best practices and can always pick up a few tricks, more GS and sculping is my next challenge to undertake in our hobby.

 

 

With that said, I highly encourage anyone to get a few models that are in the bit boxes and practice with no pressure. Read through some tutorials and take it one step at a time. \

 

Sure when you look at the big elephant it's daunting and overwhelming to attempt, but 1 model when broke down step by step will give you the confidence to try again and again. When you like what you see apply it to your models.

 

I have much more respect for those who have made the effort to paint their armies regardless of skill nstead of the primed look. If you like the look of someones army just ask them to show you the basics. Painting is 85% technique and 10% skill and 5% artistic talent. sure that 5% sets you far far apart from the average but is not required to have a well painted army.

 

I don't consider myself a pro painter by any means, but I have noticed a slow improvement of my skill the more I paint and am proud of my warrior's look on the field.

 

WG Vrox.