Looking for a quick way to paint Wolves pre-heresy style

[Ant]

I've got the grey sprays, im just not sure what wash to use! :\ I haven't the time at the moment to paint my models thoroughly (not that they look that good when done properly anyway as you can see from pg 9 on the sticky :P ) so i need a quick but effective way of making my wolves look half-decent on the table. If you don't know what i mean by pre-heresy i mean 13th company coloured armor ;)

[JEFF4i]

Quick and easy, and decent look?

 

Glue 10 bases on a piece of wood or something similar. Put them in the bases where they will stay still but not be stuck on. Spray black, thin coat. Dry. Spray the gray but don't try and coat the thing. Ideally that black undercoat will add a touch of definition and give an impatient man's version of dry brush look, though not likely. Either way, bring them inside dry, paint black where the black goes, highlight, and touch up. All n all you can usually get a squad done in an hour or two this way.

[dietrich]

I don't even use primer if I'm spraying my models anymore.

 

Spray whatever grey you want.

Paint details.

 

Use Badab Black, I think that will work best for you.

 

Now, if you want to help them look better:

Paint little details like the eyes on the helms

Paint pack markings (aka unit markings)

Apply transfers for company markings, maybe even army badges (usually worn on the greaves)

Paint a few random runes in a few random places

 

If you want, you can apply a drybrush to the grey to help, I would suggest doing it before you apply the wash.

[Ant]

thanks guys :P ill try it and post back letting you know how it goes.

[Ant]

I tested a method out today on a marine. I first sprayed the model black, then codex grey. After it had dried i slapped on some Badab black and covered the armor in a mid-thickness layer of it, strategically making sure it went into the recesses of the armor and details, but not so much that it obscured the detail. I waited for it to dry and it did actually look pretty decent, decent enough to leave if i was in a hurry. However the grey was darker than standard codex grey because of the wash, and on some parts of the armor there were 'splodges' where the wash had gathered on the armor. Reasonably pleased with the outcome i decided to do 2 layers of highlights, one with codex grey, the other with fortress grey. It worked out pretty well. Im just a little worried that the armor will look a different shade of grey to the 1000 points or so i painted without washing badab black.

 

I tried the drybrushing but it diddnt quite work out for me, the armor looked too plain and a little messy compared to the washing technique. But thanks for the help! :D I think all i need now is a mug-full of badab black wash and alot of grey spray paint B)

[dietrich]

Try adding some future floor finish to the wash, that helps break the surface tension of the water in it and makes it flow a little better.

 

As far as touch-ups after the wash - people really don't see the legs or backpack. Just touchup the head and shoulders, and the very top of the backpack, and they'll look good.

[Ant]

will normal varnish do instead of Floor finish? Thanks for the info about the advice on the highlights! :)

[Wolf Lord Tyr Stormwulf]

I'm a fan of an adeptus battlegrey coat over a black undercoat, highlighted in codex grey and fortress grey.

 

looks like this (not my pic)

 

http://sites.google.com/site/armageddonmodels/Home/warhammer-40k/space-marines/logan%20Grimnar%20Front.jpg

[dietrich]

Haven't heard of anyone using varnish instead of Future Floor Finish. Might check out the paint additives at your local friendly hobby supply store and see what they have. If you try the varnish, please post about how it worked. The idea is to add another fluid that helps to break the surface tension on the water.

 

Dry brushing can leave a 'chalky' appearance. For some models, it works great, like fur and cloth. For armor, not as much. You can dry brush the model, then apply an ink or wash to it - it helps to take the 'chalky' appearance away. There's also different 'techniques' to drybrush. You can hit the whole surface, or just try to grab the edges of the armor. I still consider it drybrushing, because I use the same brush and general technique (wipe off some of the paint, use a flat brush), but if you just hit the 'edge' of the armor (like the top of greaves or edges of shoulder pads).