Modelling: Light up Rhino

[Romulas]

OK. I bit the bullet and took a dive off the deep end:

 

in a few hours last night i got some of the prep work done.

 

but for starters, i intend for this to go abit farther than just an on/off lighting tutorial, but for matters of simplicity i'm presenting the KISS method (Keep It Simple Stupid). otherwise i may scare away pople who have cool ideas. by no means restrict yourself, perhaps correct for realities sake, but if you got a good concept go for it.

 

in this i will present interior lighting (surface mount LEDs), view port lighting (5mm Leds) and headlights (3mm Leds).

 

here is the circuit:

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0120.jpg

 

it gives the basic outline for the circuit involved. switch batteries, and lighting. i drew out a fairly standard LED. to power a resister must be in circuit with the LED. (it does not matter whether it is on the positive or negative lead). a quick note of resistors: think of a water hose, if you restrict the water flow (adjust the tap or pinch the hose) less water flows. a resister acts much the same on current, the larger the resister the less current will flow.

 

you could put a LED across a 'AAA' or even a 'D' battery with almost no worries without a resister. these batteries usually supply 1.5 volts which the LED can dissipate with ease. most LEDs can handle voltage up to 2.5 volts some can handle more some less please check specs if worried.

 

as i intend to run the circuit with 2 'AAA' batteries a resistor will be required to be in circuit with a single LED. but more LEDs on one circuit should be safe (they can spread the higher voltage amongst them, feel free to use a resistor if your not sure) the resistor i have chosen is a 1K0 1/4 watt resistor (1000 ohm 0.25 watt resister), the colour code for this resister is brown black red (there will be a metallic colour after these three on most standard resistors it will be gold or silver. it just represents +/- 5 to 10% error of the printed value). my test setup on the breadboard uses a 9 volt, the 1K can handle that with no worries.

 

back to the fun:

 

The main components:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0118.jpg

 

Resister, 5 pack of surface mount LEDs, 3mm LED, 5MM bipolar LED (sub in a regular 5mm LED and wire same as 3mm. the bi-polar is a LED that emits two different colours depending on which side is activated. in the case it is a red/green more on my divergence at a later date.)

 

the before shot

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0106.jpg

 

I've left the Lid loose as i wanted to mess with the tank, it took Brother Bond to kick me into action.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0108.jpg

 

the inside of the rhino's passenger compartment was painted black as well as the 'roof' area. (unfortunately i glued the top hatch). drop the top of the rhino back on for a moment and take a smallish screwdriver, score the 'roof' on either side of the interior to show where the top of the walls meet the 'roof' (i intend to use surface mount LEDs that i wanted ceiling mounted)

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0119.jpg

 

sorry of the quality of this picture but you can just make out the score marks.

 

if it isn't too late and you have not mounted your headlight assembly, you can take out the sculpted light with your hobby knife. if it's mounted all is not lost, take your hobby knife and make a divot with the tip in the center.

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0111.jpg

 

start small work out to 3 mm.

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0122.jpg

 

note: the right one got a little mangled as i was not paying attention, TV is a distraction....... :cry:

a little green stuff and some black paint and all will be well.

repaint the interior of the holes black as to hide the plastic.

 

next i subset the ceiling lighting:

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0121.jpg

 

then i cut out channels for the wires

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0126.jpg

 

i intend to glue the wires to the top of the rhino and have them drop down into the drivers compartment. for sanity's sake get larger surface mount if it your first time soldering these things.

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0125.jpg

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0127.jpg

after getting the wires on them i am muchly relieved, slightly warmed fingers holding wires.... (the splotches on the paper is flux residue. flux is maybe the only reason the wire finally stuck to the LEDs. Side Note: surface mounts are polarized as well. the negative is usually marked, i this case there is a tiny green dot.)

 

gotta paint this but it is not going to be in the way before finishing the lighting project.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0113.jpg

 

the mad scientists mess. make sure that you clean up before the wife gets home.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0128.jpg

 

more to follow, any questions please ask.

[Romulas]

sorry for the delay in any new posts i have had issues with power supply. i wanted to use 'AAA' batteries but the circuit i chose will not run off a pair of these batts & the battery holder will not fit benith the treds....... so i've go a solution. lithium coin cell batteries. using the board mount holders i can fit a couple cells under the tank which will power the circuit nicely & allow you to change the batteries when they die.

 

switch is placed, and the bi-polar LED and micro controller idea is tossed for the moment so i will ge this tutorial done .:tu:

 

i've also painted up the inside of the rhino to make it less of an eyesore the lights are on.

 

working on it tonight and tomorrow should get some more posts.

[njm3]

There are LEDs with built-in "integral" resistors. I did a quick search on digi-key and couldn't find any, but I know they are out there.

 

http://www.lumex.com/product.aspx?id=82

 

is an example of what I'm talking about, though the 5v operating voltage won't work for most of you guys.

 

 

----

Any battery will work (well, anything above a .7V battery), you just have to size the resistor correctly. If you use a smaller battery you won't have to permanently install a battery pack inside the hull. So AAA batteries will certainly work, just have to calculate the right voltage drop / current.

 

If I was going to do something like this, I'd use a small coin battery inside one of the external storage boxes that are on most kits. Have the box slip onto some posts or a lip made out of green stuff so you can remove it. Alternatively, have access to the battery from the turret hatch or something similar. Just remove the battery when you aren't wanting lights or forget about it and have it run out, then replace it the next time you want lights. Consider the buck or two a small battery costs vs. adding a switch to the circuit / soldering / putting a hole in the bottom for a switch.

 

And for ordering parts, I'd use digikey. They do from small hobby orders of a few bucks to mid sized companies. Easier to deal with then allied or some of the other companies.

 

If you are really on the cheap, there are LED manufacturers that send you "sample" kits of various sizes and shapes. I had one a few years back, and honestly can't remember the name of the LED manufacturer. There big thing was purple: the web page was purple and the case the LEDs came in was purple. I think they also had a goofy mascot LED guy. Yes, I know that doesn't help much, but I haven't thought about parts ordering and LEDs for several years now.

 

edit:I think it was lumex that has the sample packages, but I'm not quite sure.

[kha'delath]

http://www.ddp-leds.com/Samples.aspx

[Romulas]

Any battery will work (well, anything above a .7V battery), you just have to size the resistor correctly. If you use a smaller battery you won't have to permanently install a battery pack inside the hull. So AAA batteries will certainly work, just have to calculate the right voltage drop / current.

 

If I was going to do something like this, I'd use a small coin battery inside one of the external storage boxes that are on most kits. Have the box slip onto some posts or a lip made out of green stuff so you can remove it. Alternatively, have access to the battery from the turret hatch or something similar. Just remove the battery when you aren't wanting lights or forget about it and have it run out, then replace it the next time you want lights. Consider the buck or two a small battery costs vs. adding a switch to the circuit / soldering / putting a hole in the bottom for a switch.

 

And for ordering parts, I'd use digikey. They do from small hobby orders of a few bucks to mid sized companies. Easier to deal with then allied or some of the other companies.

 

If you are really on the cheap, there are LED manufacturers that send you "sample" kits of various sizes and shapes. I had one a few years back, and honestly can't remember the name of the LED manufacturer. There big thing was purple: the web page was purple and the case the LEDs came in was purple. I think they also had a goofy mascot LED guy. Yes, I know that doesn't help much, but I haven't thought about parts ordering and LEDs for several years now.

 

edit:I think it was lumex that has the sample packages, but I'm not quite sure.

 

:P

 

the current i was pulling from the circuit was bottoming out the 'AAA' dual pack, (damn super brights, why did i choose blue headlamps....) so i did go with coin cells. i'll post some new pictures tonight. thanks for the patience on this tutorial, rl is keeping me busy at the moment.

 

digi-key is a great supplier, they do have a minimum buy order of 35$ to avoid shipping but if you get a couple friends together that is gone quick. (they will send you a catalog if you ask for one) Mode electronics are a good resource as well. (their catalog is online)

 

sample packs are great but you will get an assortment of product, some things you may never use, some that cost a small fortune to get more of. (purple LEDs, Blue were expensive for a while as well.)

[Romulas]

as promised guys here is the rest of the project. again my apologies for dragging this one out.

 

first of all i was embarrassed to have something I'm gonna show off unpainted so i painted the interior. the plate with the emanating face covers a mistake/modifiation i had to do :P (they happen)

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0129.jpg

 

all of the LED work is on the lid of the rhino kit.

i took a standard small slide switch (on/on) and figured the best way to mount it would be under the removable pintle mount gunner.

i did an oops here as the way i mounted it covered up the interior view port and may have covered up one of the front ones (i think i lucked out) i used nylon standoffs cutting ito it a third of the way up and about halfway in.

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0130.jpg

 

top view

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0131.jpg

 

then i installed the LEDs (headlights and interior lighting)

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0134.jpg

 

while waiting for the super-glue to set i worked on how to power the new circuit (essentially the same as the first circuit above without my goofiness that i wanted to do) a couple AAAs wouldn't power it as i was drawing too much current for the batteries to support. i went with a couple of high capacity coin cells (3.5 volts at a little over an amp each). i then mounted the coin cell holders.

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0190.jpg

 

and ran the power up to reach the top

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0188.jpg

 

started working on the 'meat' of the project.

the big arse red LED i pulled from my electronic bits box, i pulled it from a circuit some time ago...

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0191.jpg

 

i tied all the negative poles together i used a silver wire to keep my negative side of the circuit marked.

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0192.jpg

 

looks like a total mess but i is a totally sound free form circuit, nothing touches. the resistors are the positive pole i took a few shots from different angles to give you a better view. the resisters are crimped off before soldering. this gives them a mechanical as well as a electrical connection.

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0193.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0194.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0195.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0196.jpg

 

attach the battery ground to the ground wire/bus and the battery positive to the center switch position and the circuit is complete.

 

and now all you have been waiting for ..... lights!

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0197.jpg

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0200.jpg

 

and at an angle so the blues don't flood out the camera

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Romulas/Rhino/PICT0199.jpg

 

this was a fun project, although trying at times as the surface mounts were a pain to solder (i destroyed one just trying to solder it.)

 

i like the result and will proudly light it up at tournys for the army display. (after i paint the plate covering the hole i had to make to allow the switch mount to settle in place)

 

Hope this helps everyone out. if you have a question i'll try to help the best i can.

 

i will eventually do the extra goofiness adding a micro controller but it will be a more planned out project :geek:

 

laters

 

EDIT - > more details as i remeber them, it was a late night after all :sweat:

[njm3]

Nice!

 

A few nit-picky suggestions I'd make from the lazy sidelines, for the next time you light up a rhino:

 

Heat shrink tubing over all the exposed wires. Would totally suck if you dropped your lit rhino and got a short. With the high intensity LEDS you are drawing quite a bit of power, enough to melt things. And burnt plastic smells bad.

 

Some filters over the headlights to diffuse the light a bit and for style points. With frosted plastic covers with little rock guard lines on it, people wouldn't even know you had functional headlights until you blinded them :D

 

Same thing for the front cabin with the red light. Could even paint little eyes on the filter for an even freaker effect.

 

All that and a bloody handprint on the controls in the cabin. :ph34r:

 

But good job sir, I salute you.

[Romulas]

i didn't use heatshrink because all the exposed stuff is resistor leads. firly stiff enough to not bend unless stepped on. (that would wreak the tank anyhoo) the blue tubing is some stuff i used to keep the 30 gauge wire from going all over and through the notches i had to cut on the interior walls of the rhino.

 

i was thinking of frosting the LEDs with my dremel mini wire wheel but then i remebered that i superglued one in already. (the next one will be better planned)

 

i have yet to glue the top down proper so consider the interior painting idea stolen, i still have to touch up the chaos plate and wash some areas with the brown ink mix. (gives it the gritty chaosy feel.) i was also considering having a chaos marine in the tank as well but we'll have to see how much work it will take.)

 

the LEDs make my camera go goofy so the true colours really don't show so well.

 

thanks like i said it was fun, i hope i helped out Brother Bond.

 

 

Edit: sorry for the need less bump. just wanted to add that the coin cell holders i used in this project had to be replaced with double coin holders bringing the voltage up to 12 volts. for some reasoning my old grey matter never bothered to figure out the math properly. if the circuit was built differantly (no super brights & better choice of components) it would indeed run fine on 6 volts. i also ordered some higher capacity cells for digi-key so i didn't have to swap the cells out after an hour or so. hope you all have fun with you builds