Hubernator Posted July 26, 2009 Author Share Posted July 26, 2009 Any more opinions? I am stumped on a symbol and I really want the guy to have one. On a similarish note, I want to do a sand base for him, but what colour works best as a sand-base colour? (I'm using the Citadel Starter Kit Modelling Sand) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
th0r Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 I find painting black over the sand and then working up with brown and mixed bleached bone work best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubernator Posted July 26, 2009 Author Share Posted July 26, 2009 Urrrr.... okay. Not what I meant unfortunately :) I mean the base the figure was glued onto, what colour should I paint it? Since I want a sandy sorta colour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubernator Posted July 30, 2009 Author Share Posted July 30, 2009 Well I consorted the codex around a week back and all the models with sandy bases had brown painted baseplates. So that's what I did. I also worked on the Marine's head and scarred it up abit with a knifeblade. The model itself has been done bar the Chapter Symbol and Banner. And I thought of a name for teh Chapter he'll be from - The Blazing Warriors http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg17/Hubernator/shiny%20Marine/SDC10582.jpg http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg17/Hubernator/shiny%20Marine/SDC10584.jpg There's two shots to show how the lighting affects the model. I did a custom V on the darker kneepad using Shining Gold. The base I had to use araldite to hold the stones down, as PVA was shoddy at doing the task <_< I'm not entirely satisfied with the eyes, but they're the best ones I've managed so far on any model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistinthunder Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 EEP!! never (ok, seldom) should one use GW inks at full strength, the shine is so horrid. at least 1:1 with water I find is the best rule. good thing hes not using inks then isn't it.then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Phoenix Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 EEP!! never (ok, seldom) should one use GW inks at full strength, the shine is so horrid. at least 1:1 with water I find is the best rule. good thing hes not using inks then isn't it.then Citadel washes ARE inks....and while they aren't nearly as bad as the old ones they still don't compare to traditional artists' brands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubernator Posted July 30, 2009 Author Share Posted July 30, 2009 EEP!! never (ok, seldom) should one use GW inks at full strength, the shine is so horrid. at least 1:1 with water I find is the best rule. good thing hes not using inks then isn't it.then Citadel washes ARE inks....and while they aren't nearly as bad as the old ones they still don't compare to traditional artists' brands. Either way it wasn't a havoc to use. Adding water killed off the colour and made the layers way too thin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Phoenix Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 Which is why you should probably stick to inks worth buying :( Just kidding really. Actually since you're doing metallics it's not too much of a deal since the quality change is harder to tell and you're going for muddy, high-luster finishes. At this point I say go for it, I was just responding to a jab. I have a feeling if it really killed the color that you used too much water, but that's just my experience. If you're really looking for good color, suggest blending the inks with a propylene glycol or, less stably but also far cheaper, acetone. Since you're happy with the results though I suggest doing none of that and just keeping on-track :D. the one thing i'll say is that the soft armor kept at this metalic shine is pretty distracting, i'd paint that in a different tone and far less glossy. should really pull things together. A darkening black, brown, or turquoise ink (listed in order of worst to best color) well-thinned and applied to the seams in the armor would also help strengthen the forms and really pull this together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubernator Posted July 30, 2009 Author Share Posted July 30, 2009 Maybe paint the soft armour in Tin Bitz as well then? Wouldn't be a bad idea at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistinthunder Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 EEP!! never (ok, seldom) should one use GW inks at full strength, the shine is so horrid. at least 1:1 with water I find is the best rule. good thing hes not using inks then isn't it.then Citadel washes ARE inks....and while they aren't nearly as bad as the old ones they still don't compare to traditional artists' brands. yes but you were talking about the inks shine which isn't in the washes(it's the whole reason they made them). anybody whos used the washes would no that. therefore you= epic fail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubernator Posted July 30, 2009 Author Share Posted July 30, 2009 EEP!! never (ok, seldom) should one use GW inks at full strength, the shine is so horrid. at least 1:1 with water I find is the best rule. good thing hes not using inks then isn't it.then Citadel washes ARE inks....and while they aren't nearly as bad as the old ones they still don't compare to traditional artists' brands. yes but you were talking about the inks shine which isn't in the washes(it's the whole reason they made them). anybody whos used the washes would no that. therefore you= epic fail Hey, no starting any flaming wars on threads of mine please :( I think we've established that the wash doesn't have a shine. Done dusted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Phoenix Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 yeah, i have no interest in feeding trolls or starting a flame war, but for anyone reading this with an interest in the very, very deep science of color and pigment: shine/luster is not the same as gloss, although they are often confused. while GW removed much of the gloss when they made these 'washes,' they did not address shine. when a model is brought and turned in light, the wash continues to react differently and the light will penetrate strangely compared to the flat paint (which itself already has a certain shine not found in most used by traditional painters). When used with traditional paints (for those who don't shop citadel), the difference is even more obvious. In a typical painting/printing setting, it is important to know these properties, or if you're uncertain how to properly use them, to at least keep them consistent. Like I said before, since you're using metallics (which totally throw the equation off) and are happy so far, this can largely be ignored. I'm only putting this information here for those who might want to know how things really work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubernator Posted August 2, 2009 Author Share Posted August 2, 2009 After Iron Phoenix's suggestion I decided to add more Tin Bitz in places like soft armour and so on. Here is the result: http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg17/Hubernator/shiny%20Marine/SDC10585.jpg http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg17/Hubernator/shiny%20Marine/SDC10586.jpg http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg17/Hubernator/shiny%20Marine/SDC10587.jpg http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg17/Hubernator/shiny%20Marine/SDC10588.jpg http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg17/Hubernator/shiny%20Marine/SDC10589.jpg See if you can spot the rest :D Any more C&C for him? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icallitsoda Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Not bad. He needs more depth or contrast. I think you should take your sepia wash and apply it ---ONLY--- to the cracks and recesses, deep lines, etc. Then highlight raised edges with something a shade higher than what you've got going. Not too much higher though. Maybe boltgun with a bit of sepia in it for the silvery armor... and then highlight edges on the darker area (power fist fingers, shoulder rims, chest eagle, etc) with a bronze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metcalfedan Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 E-gads! that looks Noice! Very good use of the washes - I'm enthralled by the gold! :D Mind If I put some pics in my "Viva Metallica: Submissions" photo album on my website? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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