Blackadder's Lucius Pattern Warhound Titan

[Blackadder]

At long last Lucie can stand on her own without extremely judicious balancing. I cut two holes into her generator housings this morning and installed about two ounces of lead. Hastily assembling her and assuming a none too flattering pose (thats some old paint rags sticking out the back to keep the lead plates in place.) I snapped some pictures of a dynamic pose the first ever where she didn't have to have both feet firmly planted on the ground.

 

I am so pleased I could burst and had to share this moment with you all.

 

http://e.imagehost.org/0171/P0002840.jpg

Not as blue as this flash image seems, there must be some highly reflective blue components in the pigment

 

http://i.imagehost.org/0312/P0002842.jpg

An oddly cute puppy pose for the toddler Lucie. Not at all a menacing war machine look.

 

http://i.imagehost.org/0730/P0002844.jpg

A birds eye view of romping, stomping, death hell and distruction.

 

http://i.imagehost.org/0135/P0002845.jpg

Lucie standing on the balls of her feet for the first time. Glorious!!!

 

http://d.imagehost.org/0425/P0002846.jpg

A clear top view shot, but I need a ladder.

 

http://d.imagehost.org/0828/P0002847.jpg

 

 

http://e.imagehost.org/0728/P0002848.jpg

 

 

http://e.imagehost.org/0028/P0002849.jpg

Lucie looking strangely knock kneed when a gimbal shifted but she didn't topple.

 

Thanks for all your interest and support,

 

The ecstatic Blackadder

[jezza40k]

looks great mate

[IronDuke]

That, good sir, is a thing of beauty.

[Gavin]

There are no words... *respectful salute*

[Blackadder]

BFG's?

 

Someone asked for Lucie in a battlefield scene with figures for comparison. Well I repainted the old Battleboard and set up Lucie and the tanks etc. but my son must have all his armies with him at school; the only stuff left was pretty pitiful so heres Lucie and company advancing on some foe who in for a very bad day.

 

http://j.imagehost.org/0778/0002855.jpg

 

http://j.imagehost.org/0466/0002856.jpg

 

http://j.imagehost.org/0772/0002857.jpg

 

http://j.imagehost.org/0668/0002858.jpg

 

http://j.imagehost.org/0471/0002859.jpg

 

http://j.imagehost.org/0279/0002860.jpg

 

http://j.imagehost.org/0684/0002861.jpg

 

http://j.imagehost.org/0980/0002862.jpg

 

Okay so I suck at picture taking,

 

EB

[dark_claw]

i have a FW titan myself and i have to say that beauty of yours puts her to shame and she is not even assembeled lol. you should be really pleased with yourself so when you starting the warlord lol

[Chaptermaster Graymantle]

Wow, that is one stunning model! :wub:

You obviously put a lot of heart into this and it turned out just jaw-droppingly awesome.

You are an inspiration to us all! - Well done! :tu:

[Blackadder]

i have a FW titan myself and i have to say that beauty of yours puts her to shame and she is not even assembeled lol. you should be really pleased with yourself so when you starting the warlord lol

 

I envy you having a real production warhound and I look forward to a thread regarding her construction.

 

I'd be glad to offer you any assistance in building and painting. My best advice is take your time and invest in an airbrush since your major outlay for the model is so much more than that.

 

EB

[Blackadder]

Wow, that is one stunning model! :wub:

You obviously put a lot of heart into this and it turned out just jaw-droppingly awesome.

You are an inspiration to us all! - Well done! :tu:

 

Thanks, but why does she look so blue? Must be the fluorescent lighting. Her actual colour is a steely blue grey. All that should resolve itself when she is weathered and battle damaged.

 

IF I can bring myself to add battle damage scars,

 

LOL

 

The Blackadder

[dark_claw]

i picked her up on ebay for only £160 so almost half price but i have had to strip her down of paint and dismantle her as she had been mistreated none of her bits where fixed right and most here so glue encrusted you would not believe, she is now fully paint stripped and almost all her parts are apart and 90% glue removed then its a matter of priming her and painting her once i have done a dry fit to make sure all the parts go together with no need for mass putty or green work.

 

i have never tried air brushing i bought a GW one but i used it once and was very disapointed in it the colour i used ended up really light and almost like a wash instead of the intended colour but i followed there instructions.

 

any tips for a newbie to the air brush?

 

also would you recomend painting the bits before armour plates are attached?

[Liquid_awesomes]

Oh my God :D . you sir, are a damn genius. if a modeling job ever comes avalible at fw or gw, please take it.

[kampvarg]

I just found this at relicnews, and I have spent the last 30 minutes studying this thread here.

I don't have anything new to say, so I'll just echo the people before me:

That is insane,

genius,

expertly made,

fantastic, freakin' irritating for the lesser gifted among us,

and so forth...

 

Keep up the good work, you're an inspiration for the rest of us!!

[Blackadder]

i picked her up on ebay for only £160 so almost half price but i have had to strip her down of paint and dismantle her as she had been mistreated none of her bits where fixed right and most here so glue encrusted you would not believe, she is now fully paint stripped and almost all her parts are apart and 90% glue removed then its a matter of priming her and painting her once i have done a dry fit to make sure all the parts go together with no need for mass putty or green work.

 

i have never tried air brushing i bought a GW one but i used it once and was very disapointed in it the colour i used ended up really light and almost like a wash instead of the intended colour but i followed there instructions.

 

any tips for a newbie to the air brush?

 

also would you recomend painting the bits before armour plates are attached?

 

I lost track of this thread when my old computer died so I don't know if this post is still relevant but a question asked should be answered if only to be polite.

 

I'm relatively new to using an airbrush myself but the beauty of the airbrush is how fine you can spray if you're not in a hurry. I always use my 'brush at the finest setting I can achieve with the finest tip available. I only use spirit based paint with a 50/50 mix. I only spray in one direction not back and forth and take the precaution of not swooping into the model at the center of the stroke; a common fault on newcomers to spray painting. Another mistake spraying tyros make is the build up of paint at the end of the stroke; hold the button down until the stroke passes off of the model then release the button. Move back to the other end and make another pass pressing the button as you move and then passing onto the model. No matter how fast you think you can react with the button there will be a significant build up of paint at the end and beginning of your stroke if you don't employ the above technique. Likewise if you move the 'brush back and forth you get a build up of paint where you reversed direction.

 

Alway keep the 'brush at the same distance from the surface to avoid the build up of paint at the center of your stroke.

 

Allow the paint to set a while (paint something else) especially on vertical surfaces to preclude 'build up' and 'sag', the bane of novice spray painters and run pure mineral spirits through your 'brush tip regularly to prevent clogging and spattering.

 

I always try to paint individual pieces before assembly if possible as it is difficult to penetrate all the nooks and crannies with paint afterwards but sometimes that can't be helped.

 

I'm not familiar with the GW airbrush but I assume that it comes with a medium tip as the water based paint is thicker that the spirit based paint I use. You might try thinning your paint with automobile windshield washer fluid instead of water to make it thinner and dry faster.

 

I use an antique Badger 350 'brush with the finest tip available. There may be better 'brushes but it's what I am use to using.

 

Finally always practice a new technique on a piece of scrap before attempting to paint on the model. Paint is a lot cheaper than the regret you'll experience from a poorly applied paint job because you were in a hurry.

 

EB

[Blackadder]

Just to keep this thread alive and to add to the "How to" portion of this dissertation I whipped up a diagram of how to make the mount gimbals on the end of hydraulic cylinder and the piston.

 

The red objects are plastic bead headed straight pins (metal would be better). You drill a recess into the rod end head and insert the straight pin. Glue on the cap and drill an tight hole into the mount plate. Repeat the process on the other end and voila a gimbal mounted telescoping hydraulic cylinder. These have a relatively long travel and are used on the ankle gimbals and the waist to hip gimbals and are primarily used for steering and adjusting the feet to variations in the terrain.

 

http://i.imagehost.org/0348/CYLINDER.jpg

 

The other style mounting for the hydraulic cylinders on the Warhound is the double rod end. This is the most common mounting and consists of a pin or axle through the mount end of the cylinder and a pin through the rod end of the piston. These are heavy duty cylinders and actually support the weight of the vehicle. They have a very short travel and are thick in cross section.

 

http://h.imagehost.org/t/0608/Piston_cylinder_breakdown.jpg

 

The toes use a variation on the rod end mount called a base mounted cylinder or trunnion mount.

 

http://a.imagehost.org/t/0012/THE_TOE_COMPONENTS_1.jpg

[Blackadder]

The toes are 100% individually hand crafted with close to a hundred parts per toe (counting rivets). I never did anything so tedious in my life. Thank god the Warlord feet will be easier.

 

Anyway here are some images of the toe build up:

 

http://h.imagehost.org/t/0679/Toes_assembled_and_exploded.jpg http://h.imagehost.org/t/0417/Toes_breakdown_and_caps.jpg http://h.imagehost.org/t/0719/Toes_with_caps.jpg

 

There are no cast parts on Lucie and aside from the skulls on the cheek vents no bitz either. I drew the line at sculpting skulls but now I regret I did because those two skulls compromised my scratch build.

 

Lucie suffered a little battle damage last night. The rear joint on her right center toe got damaged.

 

I didn't even know that until I decided to take some new pictures:

 

http://h.imagehost.org/t/0449/P0002902.jpg

 

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A close up of the tread detail, if you don't have a FW Warhound you probably weren't aware of this detail before I know I hadn't until a friend gave me a picture of his Warhounds feet.

 

http://h.imagehost.org/t/0238/P0002903.jpg

 

----------------------------------------------------------

 

Finally a true colour non-flash image. The paint I used shows up too blue in flash images:

 

http://i.imagehost.org/t/0049/P0002905.jpg

 

BTW the waist armour and the greaves are attached with plastic velcro-like material for easy removal that's why the waist shield is askew.

[Doghouse]

Fantastic stuff, if I hadn't know any different I'd have sworn that was a fw model. Exceptional work mate. :P

[celes]

I've spent a good hour and a half reading through this thread, watching your titan grow from a few pieces of board to a demi-god machine and I have one thing to say.

 

YOU, SIR, ARE MADE OF WIN!

[chapter master 454]

Ok...here, have my title of master of madness, because the amount of detail, the amount of work, the amount of care and the amount of time required for this is just...just impossible to comprehend. Only a true madman would do this, well done. It's an awesome scratch build...nothing more to be said (apart from your the forums new master of madness until you finish that thing!)

[Blackadder]

Wow an entire summer shot in the arse and nothing to show for it.

 

I took most of the summer off from modeling as I just got tired of doing it.

 

This weekend I started detailing Lucie and my first project was the daunting Griffin Logo. I calculated the proper size for my particular greaves was 1.25 inches by 0.82 inches. This approximates the area covered by the FW Mark Tait model.

 

http://a.imagehost.org/t/0563/WAR_GRIFFIN_LOGO_1.jpg http://a.imagehost.org/t/0846/WAR_GRIFFIN_LOGO_2.jpg http://j.imagehost.org/t/0245/WAR_GRIFFIN_LOGO_3.jpg http://j.imagehost.org/t/0555/WAR_GRIFFIN_LOGO_4.jpg http://i.imagehost.org/t/0950/WAR_GRIFFIN_LOGO_5.jpg

 

The direction Mark's Griffin faces always bothered me so I reversed mine to face left purely for asthetics mind you lest my political affiliation be misconstrued.

 

http://i.imagehost.org/t/0396/Paintwarhound1LARGE.jpg

 

Now a question; what is the significance of the capital 'T' on the left greave and is there any clear representation available for the heraldic drapery hanging from the waist armour.

 

How's that hope and change working out for you?

 

Blackadder

[Firenze]

Holy hell.... Incredible. My computer just shut down from the awesomeness shining through the monitor.

[Montuhotep]

I think the T is the heraldic marking of the Titanicus section of the Ad. Mech. - In the same way that the =I= is the universal mark of the Inquisition.

[Nachocuban]

The banners hanging are the personal heraldry of the Princeps(that sounds wrong, but I don't have any books with me) of the Titan, I believe.

[winterdyne]

The red T is the insignia of the divisio militaris (one of the 4 divisions of the Adeptus Titanicus). The white insignia just below it is the Warhound class designator.

[Blackadder]

Thanks for the in depth information.

 

I am in the process of building a base/stand for this model as she is slightly unstable in some positions.

 

The Forgeworld model can only be build static in one pose although virtual any reasonable pose is possible.

 

Lucie is fully articulated. All the leg, ankle and toe joints can flex to assume any position likewise the waist hip and pelvis joints are also movable. Whilst the head and neck is able to move within the constraints of the upper shield collar.

 

The weapons are mounted on ball and socket gimbals and can be positioned within the limits of the carapace.

 

Here is Lucie assuming a different stance. Note that the pistons and cylinders on the legs and toes move and slide in and out with the poses.

Engineering the ability be posed into the constraints of the design was the biggest obstacle to overcome on this project and consumed the most time; especially the toe joints.

 

 

http://h.imagehost.org/t/0816/angled_stance_1.jpg http://h.imagehost.org/t/0869/angled_stance_2.jpg http://i.imagehost.org/t/0778/angled_stance_3.jpg http://i.imagehost.org/t/0076/angled_stance_4.jpg http://i.imagehost.org/t/0475/angled_stance_5.jpg http://a.imagehost.org/t/0884/angled_stance_6.jpg http://a.imagehost.org/t/0181/angled_stance_7.jpg http://a.imagehost.org/t/0082/angled_stance_8.jpg

 

All well and good Blackadder but you give half a dozen images of all the same pose. Tsk, tsk,

 

Blackadder

[1TH0R3]

Thats incredible. Like woah. Amazing.