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The PC&A Full Lifecycle Project


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No worries nephren-ka, have been trying to track down a tutorial for making welds on the web, but cannot for the life of me find one!

 

joker im a loyalist through and through but your conversion is coming along nicely.

 

owlandmoonguy i can't wait to see more detail of the model.

 

as for the titan, may be stupid but i haven't seen a admech see titan before...

 

S.O.N,

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Treading slowly and lightly.... (Word Bearers Fell Blade #3)



I can safely say i wouldnt be too surprised if the Fell Blade is my first and last tank ever assembled. I say first as I'm not including the rhinos of old since they were quite easy and straightforward! General thing i've learned from the experience that attaching the tracks although may LOOK easy, are far from! If i ever get another baneblade kit, i'll take some photographs of what the best way to attach those tracks are, because the instruction booklet doesn't exactly give a good feel of how they go on. In saying that, I only need to attach the last few tracks (for the front and back) on one side which will then complete the awful track phase of the tank. Although i know some people will place the tracks on last, i think for this particular situation, you can get away with having the tracks on (should be interesting to see if Nephren agrees or disagrees with me).

Now because i am constructing a Word Bearers vehicle, trying to remove the existing Imperial iconography hasnt been a simple task (and i think Nephren will definitely agree with that). Now, although i rarely use it i found my mini rotary tool to be invaluable during this exercise. Simple kit that i picked up from my local DIY shop for around the same cost as the cheapest blister model, i've found that it's use has been really helpful and i haven't "accidently" removed any other parts of the tank detailing whilst removing the Imperial iconography.

Despite my slow progress, I'm hoping to speed things up somewhat come this weekend as i'll be able to take a week off the time consuming 'day job', so having the time to play around with the tank will be there and available.
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owlandmoonguy i can't wait to see more detail of the model.

Thank you sir. I made some progress over the weekend but haven’t taken pics as of yet. I should have another update here in the next day or so.

 

 

General thing i've learned from the experience that attaching the tracks although may LOOK easy, are far from! If i ever get another baneblade kit, i'll take some photographs of what the best way to attach those tracks are, because the instruction booklet doesn't exactly give a good feel of how they go on.

I had similar problems with that kit. Taking pictures, along with a best approach procedure would be very worthwhile if you could work that out somehow. With the one I assembled some time ago, if you look closely the two sides of the tank aren’t 100% symmetrical. The treads all lay flat which is nice but some plastic had to be bent & glued in place to make it all come together.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/OwlandMoonGuy/DSC04315.jpg

 

Removing the Imperial symbols would be a real pain as well. Have fun with that.

 

-OMG

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I had similar problems with that kit. Taking pictures, along with a best approach procedure would be very worthwhile if you could work that out somehow. With the one I assembled some time ago, if you look closely the two sides of the tank aren’t 100% symmetrical. The treads all lay flat which is nice but some plastic had to be bent & glued in place to make it all come together.

 

I just had a brief look at the side that is half way treaded and it is still fairly feasible to take pictures (without having to invest in another Bane kit). What i'll have to do is plan some time (possibly even later this week) to get some in progress shots and alternative angle views of the tread section to best illustrate the "issue" of the treads and hopefully save at least a single soul in the future from experience the grief that is the bane blade tread system!

 

 

Removing the Imperial symbols would be a real pain as well. Have fun with that.

 

The rotary tool is a blessing for this. I can easily 'flay' away the symbols without destroying too much of the rivet work on the panels. Plus assuming i can confine the alterations to a small area, patching them up with appropriate Chaos Icons and/or other bits shouldn't be a hassle at all.

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I had similar problems with that kit. Taking pictures, along with a best approach procedure would be very worthwhile if you could work that out somehow. With the one I assembled some time ago, if you look closely the two sides of the tank aren’t 100% symmetrical. The treads all lay flat which is nice but some plastic had to be bent & glued in place to make it all come together.

 

When I assembled my Stormblade, the tracks didn't really hamper my progress, maybe I got a good kit ;-D

I just used my xacto knife, and cut off all the flash on each side of all the track links, and just popped the piece into the track housing. Without the flash there, they all literally popped in. Try that next time, it might help.

 

If it doesn't seem to help you, then enlighten us with those pictures =-D

Owland, the track housing you've painted looks awesome.

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Owland, the track housing you've painted looks awesome.

Thank you for the comment Mr. Shortsonfire. If you’re interested, completed pics of that tank can be found in my blog.

 

Now if I could only get a few more of that Brass Scorpion I’m working on. :) More on that soon.

 

-OMG

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if I could wait to put the tracks on this blasted thing till the end I think I would as the tracks are being a pain in the butt. removing the imperial eagles weren't to bad but I removed several of the rivets on accident as I was just shaving with an x-acto blade to remove them. I'm sorta happy I removed them now as by removing the smaller rivets from the entire tank and just leaving the beefier rivets the tank looks more marine-ish in my eyes. after I add some Fists icons I think it'll be a interesting addition to my fists force.
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/OwlandMoonGuy/Daemons/Full%20Lifecycle/004-LostSouls-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/OwlandMoonGuy/Daemons/Full%20Lifecycle/005-LostSouls-2.jpg

My approach was thus:
Base watered down Dwarf Flesh (2:1)
Snakebite Leather shading
Delvan Mud wash only in the shaded areas
Elf Flesh highlights
Rotting Flesh highlights
Bleached Bone highlights
Maroon wash over the more surgically attached areas

Painting time: Roughly 1 ½ hours.

I’m fairly please with things thus far but I believe they’ll look much better after the dark contrast of the cables become colorized.

Comments always welcome. Cheers, -OMG
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maybe he's a follower of khorne

Content with the fruits of his own damnation? Better to be a cog in the machinations of Chaos than a servitor/lapdog to a rotting Emperor? Just someone who maintains a positive mental attitude despite the most extreme adversity??? I guess in 40K fluff all things are possible.

 

 

Nice progress so far! OMG, are you planning to add varieties of skin tone or a standard one for all the ensnared bodies?

I went ahead and kept them all pale & sickly. I want them to stand out against the darker metallics in the surrounding area (but there will also be some other accents colors as well).

 

That’s the theory anyway. Hopefully here soon I can provide some examples in practice.

 

-OMG

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This is pic is already out of date I believe it’s still worth illustrating the point from the last entry. From a complementary perspective, I’m going to keep the underworks more monochrome to help the lost souls stand out more. Note that this whole area will be overshadowed by the armor plates as well.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/OwlandMoonGuy/Daemons/Full%20Lifecycle/006-InteriorDetail.jpg

 

Makes me wonder how the other participants are doing on their projects.

 

How about that everyone else? Are we to expect some updates shortly?

 

Cheers, -OMG

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updates . that would be agood one for me today as I have nothing else planned after picking up the oldest daughter after her very first day of school ever. I'll try and get some pics snapped off the two track sections built with the rivets removed to make it more streamed lined. hopefully the day goes well
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OMG. I have only limited experience with resin kits myself and was interested if you 'pinned' any of the parts together or was the fit good enough / glueing surfaces large enough to give a solid join??

 

Excellent model by the way!!

 

DGC

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Actually, this model has been the best experience I’ve had with FW to-date. Prior to this I’ve had a real hard time with warps & parts that just didn’t seem to want to fit together not matter what I tried. So it wasn’t so much as per the model having an appropriate surface to take the glue it was whether or not the seam even met to be glued together at all.

So like with this model:

gallery_15218_535_9693.jpg

You can see where the side door doesn’t quite fit in the doorframe. The same was true for meshing the Vindicator resin top over the plastic Rhino hull. I tried blow dryers, boiling water, etc. to heat that up to where I could bend it in place. Ultimately I had to clamp it down to get it to set properly.

So maybe the newer resin kits are benefiting from the same CAD assisted design the new plastics are these days. So far the assembly of the Brass Scorpion has been very easy to work with.

Thanks, -OMG

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