Deo Volente Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 hey you guy's i have a problem last night i created my chaos lord, but i cant make the pic's of him.. there blurry.. how do you guy's get them so detailed?? grtz pics follow if i know how to make em... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Phoenix Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 use a tripod and a camera set to self-time always shoot in good light if you can't use a tripod, place your camera on books or a shelf. NEVER HOLD IT. seldom use direct flash (although this is not your problem, just good to keep in mind) there's a good white dwarf article on miniature photography from like the early 2000's if i can find it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shortsonfire79 Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 On your camera, hopefully theres a "flower" icon on it, that is 'macro mode'. That will help you take close up, detailed pictures. Best of luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Phoenix Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 I've been photographing for years now and never liked macro mode, it's often a superficial change and often there are better ways to go about doing something. what it does primarily is to take off limits on focus allowing you to get superclose to your subject, but this is actually not desirable. It does 2 things that SUCK - it greatly increases perspective distortion and it greatly decreases depth of field, meaning that your figures come out malformed with half of a poweraxe in focus and the rest blurry. Granted, that's not true if you know what you're doing... ...but on the other hand, if you know what you're doing, you'll also know that few digital cameras can make up for the fineness of light as it deals with film or the human eye, and most record at pixel resolutions so low (say, 3000 across) that you can't even tell the difference of clarity between a shot taken in macro and a shot taken from a proper shooting distance, but what you can tell is that the entire figure is in clear focus and the limbs are all nicely relative to each other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogrebane Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 Set up on a table wit either a plain or graded blue background. You can use 1 light but I find 2 lights work best. Position lamps on either side of mini. Set macro mode. If you dont have a tripod do as suggested and rest it on some books etc and set timer so it has time to stablise. I take about 10 or so photos from different distances till i find the one that works best for that particular mini. Also make sure you have your white balance set correctly. If you are using normal desk lamps sometimes your pic looks a little too yellow. Next once you have taken the photos trim them to the right size and do a bit of a color and contrast/brightness adjustment. Even fter all that you will still only get half your pics to turn out (Or maybe its just me that it happens to) Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shortsonfire79 Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 I've been photographing for years now and never liked macro mode, it's often a superficial change and often there are better ways to go about doing something. what it does primarily is to take off limits on focus allowing you to get superclose to your subject, but this is actually not desirable. It does 2 things that SUCK - it greatly increases perspective distortion and it greatly decreases depth of field, meaning that your figures come out malformed with half of a poweraxe in focus and the rest blurry. Granted, that's not true if you know what you're doing... You're right about that, I get models in the front that are nicely in focus, and ones that are right next to it, that are horribly blurry. It only happens with my DSLR though, I think that its too good. =-P If I had a tripod (I have a gorilla pod for my pocket camera) strong enough to hold up my DSLR, I would COMPLETELY follow Iron Phoenix's instructions. ...if. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deo Volente Posted August 13, 2009 Author Share Posted August 13, 2009 hey you guy's i have a problem last night i created my chaos lord, but i cant make the pic's of him.. there blurry.. how do you guy's get them so detailed?? grtz pics follow if i know how to make em... oke now i look stupid!!!, i have the pics, now how to show em to you there's no add picture button :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Phoenix Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 The yellow problem is often the result of shooting near regular incandescent bulbs. This is largely solved by setting your white balance to Tungsten, although those of you shooting on Automatic will often find the white balance locked to 'auto'. If this is you, you're kinda (totally) screwed and if you want to really solve the problem will have to read up on the way a camera lens works so that you can shoot on manual. Learning how to control a lens properly is not all that detailed and a good skill to have if you ever need to take family portraits on a cloudy easter :P. The basics for shooting models - (constant) F-Stops - this describes the opening in the camera lens, it's width. The smaller the number, the bigger the hole, the more light enters the camera with each fraction of a second. For modelling purposes, we generally want this to be high, because as the number gets higher it increases the depth of field (amount of space that's in focus). In general, anything over F 5 is ok, but if you can get F 16+ you're golden. (constant) Film Speed - Very important! the higher this number is, the faster the film burns, meaning the brighter the image for the time exposed. faster speeds though are more and more grainy. For models, always set this as low as it goes, often 200. (constant) Zoom - the farther away you are from the subject, the better it will come out. balance this with your camera's resolution and max zoom (don't go too far away that you start to lose scale) and then keep it there. Without a zoom lens, i keep my camera at about 18 inches from the figures. (variable) Shutter Speed - this is the most important number and it's the one we get to play with! the longer the shutter speed (smaller fractions or greater full seconds) the brighter the image. although longe times mean more time for things to shake and blur, if you're using a tripod or stack of books, you can assume the camera is almost perfectly stable most of the time, meaning you can increase the time as much as you like to get the perfect brightness. This should produce usable photos from every single shot. When i make the 16-shot gif's you find in my thread, know that i never retake a single shot and it seldom takes more than 2 setup attempts before i find my happy range, light, and speed for the figure and the room i'm in. Once on the computer, photoshop has some handy features like the auto-level and auto-contrast buttons in the Image-adjustments dropdown. If these are too far towards blue or too contrasty etc, instead of applying them to the base photo, just duplicate the layer and apply to the duplicate, then play with the opacity sliders on that adjusted layer to measure the extent to which it's applied over the original. Also good tools to know how to use - manual levels, manual curves, channel mixer (for advanced photographers and digital production veterans only - trust me), and---most importantly---variations (Which work...*sorta* like a real darkroom...only not really...at all...sigh). There is an add picture button, but you can always use this format on nearly any forum: [img=image URL] as in [img=http://www.myphotowebsite.com/photos/photo192.png] or [img=http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/3941/ironphoenixbanneru.png] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deo Volente Posted August 14, 2009 Author Share Posted August 14, 2009 well here HE is... my LORD of FLY'S C&C please ?? http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab151/DeoVolente/warhammer/P8130806.jpg http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab151/DeoVolente/warhammer/P8130811.jpg http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab151/DeoVolente/warhammer/P8130804.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingGriffon Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 I like everything on the model except the bolter. Maybe it is a perspective thing, but I feel like it makes the model feel off-balanced. Other than that, good work. Maybe mike the eyes a little bit smaller, but that is a personal taste thing. Can't wait to see him painted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tybrus Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 Yeah I agree the bolter looks off, to Nid ish for my taste. Maybe a GS barrel of some kind like a festering pus and maggot ejecter? Anyway great work. Side thought I would texture the tentacals a bit, the smooth look just seems off to me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deo Volente Posted August 14, 2009 Author Share Posted August 14, 2009 @ griffon yeah thx i know i feel the same way, dont know how to adjust it @ tybrus uhu indeed but that maggot ejector etc i have an idea in mind but im not that good with gs the rotting, molded thingies i can make, but that bolterbarrel... i have a wormlike barrel in mind with oozing sores and blisters, and a mouth with sharp teeth like a sandworm in the games... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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