Throne Bearer Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Great looking stuff so far. I like the addition of the roof, but perhaps the part roof isn't large enough? In a GM'd game, you could almost double blind on one board. Pin heads make good rivets as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulson games Posted August 25, 2009 Author Share Posted August 25, 2009 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Toddius Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 I don't know if you've seen this before but to possibly help you not reinvent the wheel entirely heres a link to some 3-d as well: http://spacehulk.beckerf.de/html/3d-spacehulk.html http://modhail.wordpress.com/ http://ironhands.com/spacehlk.htm http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/508812 http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/508810 http://www.hirstarts.com/scifi/scifi2.html Hope you don't mind but I know I always look for examples anywhere i can find it to either confirm a direction or delete it depending on my own tastes when taking on a project. I like what you've done so far. I guess my question would be if its cheaper to just kit bash GW and Pegasus Hobbies terrain models or pay all the money for the resin and casting materials. :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulson games Posted August 25, 2009 Author Share Posted August 25, 2009 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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Kaine Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 I'm working on something similar myself, not wanting to mess with resin i've went with the plaster route (herculite 2 plaster, its strong enough) and using hirst art moulds as a base. The issue i've got is the walls dont look natural because of the gaps and rough backs of the plaster casts. I could sand them down but even on the front the joins arent great. At the moment, in order to get something ready for release i've decided to compromise and go with just floor tiles, since hirst arts do 4 main variations and 2 extras with detail. I'll only build up 3d elements in the rooms. I'll post some stuff in another thread and link back when i've done it so you can see where i'm upto. Btw heres the exact spec from the space hulk box Sqs Num Total Corridor1 1 2 2 Corridor2 2 8 16 Corridor3 3 6 18 Corridor4 4 4 16 Corridor5 5 4 20 Dead End 1 3 3 Shaft 2 2 4 L junction 3 6 18 T junction 4 8 32 Cross Junction 5 8 40 Room11 sq 11 4 44 Room13 13 2 26 Room12 12 2 24 Weird 8 1 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjolniir Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 if you are building and casting your own, you could design the segments to take advantage of LED lighting. if you are putting ceilings in, why not go the whole nine yards eh, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Phoenix Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 just browsed those links... General note to the public : : : NEVER EVER EVER tool resin on an electric sander unless you have a proper chem mask. dusk masks are not enough!! it's even worse than melting styrofoam. not only is it toxic, it can lacerate the lungs like fiberglass and the particles are easily small enough to permeate a paper mask after a few minutes. Also wear eye protection unless you want similar cuts on your cornia, though that's standard sanding procedure so I assume most people know that... Kaine - if you're dedicated to plaster (I still stand firmly against it) you should invest time (abt. 20 minutes per cast) in patting your moulds to ensure proper leveling (no sanding needed), or invest time in a cheap agitator to do the shaking for you. Always use cool water to slow down pre-pouring setup. there's no good reason for a plaster back to be uneven. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulson games Posted August 27, 2009 Author Share Posted August 27, 2009 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Phoenix Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 do you think the new section looks a bit too much...like my bathroom? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulson games Posted August 27, 2009 Author Share Posted August 27, 2009 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muller Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 this is exactly what i was thinkin' of doing myself... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twin .44 Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Paulson, I honestly think you enjoy having no free time :P this is what, project #800? Anyway, enough of the fun makings! It looks quite amazing and I cannot wait to see a completed and painted board! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulson games Posted August 29, 2009 Author Share Posted August 29, 2009 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulson games Posted August 29, 2009 Author Share Posted August 29, 2009 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Phoenix Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 BasTac is great for healing molds and less expensive than others. Assuming when you said rip you meant a single, continuous split (as opposed to a jagged/multi-part one and/or dashed one), it should be quite simple to repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulson games Posted August 30, 2009 Author Share Posted August 30, 2009 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Phoenix Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 yeah use bastac or another silicone binder. superglue would just break again. more importantly though, make sure you use a handsom amount of release agent, since there's no way a properly lubricated mold should stick to the cast enough to tear itself apart :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulson games Posted August 30, 2009 Author Share Posted August 30, 2009 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulson games Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulson games Posted September 4, 2009 Author Share Posted September 4, 2009 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Toddius Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 I like what you've done so far. I think its smart to build each section as a 3 part component. It lets you make several different looks with the same 6-7 parts. Good job. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulson games Posted September 9, 2009 Author Share Posted September 9, 2009 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eberious Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 These are all looking very cool, I want your molds. Are you going to do any damaged twisted sections? I got plenty of unmade COD stuff, might give this casting thing a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulson games Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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