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Vulkan and Sicarius counts as.


Bloodstone

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Because i loved the models so much, i decided to buy the Forgefather Vulkan and Sicarius models and paint them. However, i thought it best to just paint them in the colors of my own chapter instead, but with so much iconography of their parent chapters on the models i decided not to scratch them away.

 

I decided to just rename them and make them Salamander/Ultramarine turncoats instead. Painting isn't top notch, its a pity to have wasted the models on my pathetic painting skills. All the pictures link to my deviantArt where u can see them there instead.

 

Velkar Her'stal

 

First time painting flames that appear on Velkar's cloak and backpack, plus the lava rocks at the base. I thought it went pretty well.

 

Kratos Sycamore

 

Screwed up his eyes, i had used Tamiya clear red to paint the eye lenses of my marines, and i didnt know the lens had not dried before applying my wash over it. The tamiya red smudged a bit of the helmet and i couldnt totally salvage the situation without stripping the paint and redoing it.

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First things first... I like the color scheme. very nice. Kudos.

 

Second I think for such a bright color I recommend white primer. I know the school of thought is that black primer hides mistakes, but what good is that if the paint is too thick when applying... it just amplifies mistakes. Which leads me to Three...

(After looking at the model again; it looks as though you did prime it white, but then did a black wash over? Is that right?)

 

Thinner paint and different mediums. Try the Foundation paints to get you going. And define the pieces on the model. dark line (neatly) and line hilighting can be used to great effect.

 

After reading all that, keep practicing and good luck. Again Kudos...

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Primed white, painted another layer of white before washing it black.

 

I used Derivan for my white, red and yellows. Ill change it to Vallejo Game color next time though.

 

Personally i find the GW White primers suck, they make the model surfaces rough so when i paint them, its not smooth, and the washes emphasize it a lot. Ill probably switch to black, as i never did have that problem with black primer when i started out.

 

Paints are thinned to around 1:2 paint:water. I do know however that whats making it look bad is my priming, ever since i switched to GW white, the primer has been uneven and difficult to get right without first testing it out on another scrap model. I used black when i started painting and it was usually smooth and didnt take a genius to figure out the distance i had to spray it at.

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Primed white, painted another layer of white before washing it black.

 

I used Derivan for my white, red and yellows. Ill change it to Vallejo Game color next time though.

 

Personally i find the GW White primers suck, they make the model surfaces rough so when i paint them, its not smooth, and the washes emphasize it a lot. Ill probably switch to black, as i never did have that problem with black primer when i started out.

 

Paints are thinned to around 1:2 paint:water. I do know however that whats making it look bad is my priming, ever since i switched to GW white, the primer has been uneven and difficult to get right without first testing it out on another scrap model. I used black when i started painting and it was usually smooth and didnt take a genius to figure out the distance i had to spray it at.

 

I guess I should have asked is the armor supposed to be white. An easy assumption, but I should have asked. If so, why not try washing the plates with a different color such as a grey. or a blue ish grey. Then hilight back up to white.

 

I have never had an issue with GW primers, white or black. However you do have to shake them religiously. 5- 15 mins before applying and no farther than 8 inches away from the model. Any further and the aspirated paint dries on its way to the model and you get that fuzzy effect. But I do use DupliColor sandable primers. The spray is finer.

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I guess I should have asked is the armor supposed to be white. An easy assumption, but I should have asked. If so, why not try washing the plates with a different color such as a grey. or a blue ish grey. Then hilight back up to white.

 

I have never had an issue with GW primers, white or black. However you do have to shake them religiously. 5- 15 mins before applying and no farther than 8 inches away from the model. Any further and the aspirated paint dries on its way to the model and you get that fuzzy effect. But I do use DupliColor sandable primers. The spray is finer.

 

Okay, i could try that. Ill probably buy a pedro kantor and do it up better.

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Lots pretty good :) however the eyes seem to go way over the eyes in the model (a splash of red paint) I don't know if you were trying to do a glowing effect with light cast from the lense but if so I can't see enough detail in the photo :'(

 

I tried to do that, but it went awfully wrong.

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