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An Actual Scale Nurgle force


Seres Blackthorn

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Well, I've been bitten/infected. A small cadre of dedicated modellers have unknowingly challenged me to create a single actual scale miniature, and with one, comes many. I am a lurker by trade, so I see quite a few good looking things and try to emulate them with my own experiment style.

We have the beginning of any addiction, the introductory plastic drug if you will.

Before you say things about highlighting, my style seems to not like it. It ruins my thoughts of the dark universe of 40K to introduce a lighter color to a darker color only to emulate the way light would reflect, that and I'm too lazy.

Lord Geramund in all his infected glory. He leads the Legion of the Shadowed Blight with Bolter and Power Fist with the toxins of nurgle throughout.

Please note, as a procedure of going on, I have scrapped with piece of sorrow.

Also, please be aware this is my second experiment with OSL and it seems to look effective enough, I'm not trying to win a GD anytime soon.

C+C requested, whatever it means :(

Go further down to see myself redoing the entire marine that was here, and this is a taster of what is below

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I'm not sure if that's the final paintjob, but it kinda makes him look like he's made out of differently color schemed parts hastily painted black and with a big blue/white splash of paint on him.

 

As for the actual scale it seems to me that's just a Terminator with a helmet from a Chaos Space Marine squad sprue.

I think you have the right idea with OSL, as you seem to put the paint where it should be, just needs to be a LOT less paint. You need to do it with really really thin paints and build it up, and the colors become brighter closer to the source. This way when you do it lightly, you can still see the color scheme underneath the lighting. Nice first try tho!

@Thorbjørn Nielsen

Your point is alright, but not alright. I view my painting as an experimental freeform style, playing with whatever effects please me at the moment. This is what pleases me. I'm not trying to win a contest, I'm just painting a marine to look the way I wish.

 

@Phatboy101

Thank you for your constructive criticism, and I have taken a second go at it and it seems to have gained more ideal look, but it still isn't perfect.

 

@Cannibalizer

You kinda just looked at the pretty pictures didnt you? I realize it didn't look too good, but I tried. Also, Actual Scale is the process of using Terminator Parts and Marine Parts to create said Actual Scale Model. Try not to say its just a terminator with a different helmet, because that isn't helping.

I'm no GD painter myself, but I don't hide behind "experimental painting fancies" to cover up my rushed, if not poorly executed work. Dismissing genuinely constructive comments as critisism reeks of amateur pride.

That said...I applaud you for your enthousiasm - a full painted army is a feat in and of itself. I implore you to take your time, plan out a scheme before your brush hits the paint. Focus on basic techniques first, then expand as your skills grow.

 

Not only will your skillset improve, but your models will benefit also.

@Thorbjørn Nielsen

Your point is alright, but not alright. I view my painting as an experimental freeform style, playing with whatever effects please me at the moment. This is what pleases me. I'm not trying to win a contest, I'm just painting a marine to look the way I wish.

 

@Cannibalizer

You kinda just looked at the pretty pictures didnt you? I realize it didn't look too good, but I tried. Also, Actual Scale is the process of using Terminator Parts and Marine Parts to create said Actual Scale Model. Try not to say its just a terminator with a different helmet, because that isn't helping.

 

Okay, bro, let me key you in on a little something: Part of posting a miniature on a forum is getting praise and having your peers applaud you for your work, but again, that's only part of it. Constructive criticism is something that we all need in order to help us to improve. Sometimes that criticism isn't something we want to hear, but we shouldn't brush it off and take offense, badmouthing and acting hostile as you did in both of these two responses. Neither of these people said anything to offend you, they simply gave you feedback on what you posted. While giving you a compliment, they added a wiff of criticism that I'm sure they hoped would help you improve. Instead of taking these criticisms to heart, and thinking about it for a second, you met them with a response that was both childish and overtly over-prideful. You say that you paint how you please, and that's alright, but don't think for a second that just because not everyone agrees with the way you do something that that gives you the right to take a defensive and hostile standing against them. No-one's going to want to help you if you have that kind of attitude. So I suggest you drop it, and stop using excuses like your "experimental freeform style" for your clear lack of forum etiquette. You don't deserve any feedback if you take this attitude, because, by doing this, you are obviously just looking for a quick epeen boost.

 

Now that I have finished my metaphorical 'slap on the wrist', onto the model.

 

I'd like to say, that the OSL is very sloppy, and just looks like you slapped some paint on the miniature. Try thinning your paints and looking up some good guides on how to do OSL, I'm sure this will help you improve if you give it a try on a few test models. I would also wash and highlight the model a little bit after (or before) you have gotten a good handle on how to do OSL. I would also reccomend finding another way to do Truescale, because, I'm sorry bro, but it does just look like a Terminator with an SM backpack and head. There are lots of good tutorials on Truescaling marines, why don't you give one of them a try. I think your model could look great if you just take some of the things the general public is saying to heart, and give some of our recomendations a try.

 

If you don't like my criticism, then keep doing what your doing, it's no skin off my nose, just thought (like those before me) I'd try to help someone improve their painting skills.

@Cannibalizer

You kinda just looked at the pretty pictures didnt you? I realize it didn't look too good, but I tried. Also, Actual Scale is the process of using Terminator Parts and Marine Parts to create said Actual Scale Model. Try not to say its just a terminator with a different helmet, because that isn't helping.

 

I didn't just look at the pretty pictures and I wouldn't call that freeform painting or experimental style, this is just rushed, looks kinda like you had no clue about how you wanted to paint that, I'd even go so far and guess you decided that was a nurgle marine in retrospect. Right now, looking at the pictures again, I must say I'd never guessed that is a nurgle marine, and I still can't really grasp what the big splash of blue and white is supposed to be :P For a mini to really shine it needs to be carefully and patiently painted till you are happy with it. I really think you should work on your painting, before trying to do actual scale, practice makes perfect <_<

 

What I meant with my comment about the actual scale is that it's just parts from a terminator and a chaos space marine in power armor if you want to do actual scale, you need to do it with alot more effort, actual scale isn't something you do with only parts and glue imo, but it's a nice try, and I encourage you to continue trying, but improve your painting before trying something like this :)

Couple pet peeves for these actual scale marines.

 

The areas around the thigh needs to be filled in with green stuff, or w/e else you sculpt with.

That parts a dead give away, and makes it look like you just slapped parts together.

 

Get rid of the pad dealies just above the thigh. I know it gives a feel or an artificer armour, and such.

But for your standard trooper, or even most sargents, or in this case, aspiring champions. Their lower armour should resemble power armour more.

Annnnd the elbow on the arms. Terminator arms don't look like PA arms at the elbow. Try to fix that too. Same thing with the little round thingies by the knees.

I know the last 2 things are little picky, but those little things let people know you put some effort into your guy.

 

And most definately check out Doghouse's tutorial on Actual scale. As far as i can tell, his method requires least amount of GSing, so helping those of us with little or no sculpting skills.

 

lastly, thin your paint, highlight this and that, etc etc. you know the drill.

 

hope that helps out somewhat

Well I have taken things seriously now, I was having some issues, so sorry for those I snapped at, I have seen then slowly began to despise my own work. I decided to do work on his retinue and figure Geremund out later. And as with my experimental style, I've decided to experiment with highlighting, and it actually makes sense. He also is much more AS then Geremund, honestly because I took more time to produce him, and I thought because he's a chosen, I need to make him a bit more unique, so I decided to make his right shoulder pad a much more interesting design. For the rest of the marines, I will make some alterations to the elbows to make it look more like power armor, and Do some overall trimming.

And also, the OSL looks much more realistic on this one. Still needs some work though. A gem in the rough if you will.

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Seker is a veteran that has stood by the side of Lord Geremund for many years. His right hand is colored red, simply because that is the blood of a marine he has slain. It is also to mock his opponent, a Marine of the Crimson Fists.

I just hope people won't hold my comments against me. I plan to revisit Geremund, in the sense that he's going to get a literal make over. He will become better, and his Wargear will actually look more DWish, instead of a power fist with a tube.

The Legion shall RISE!

I...don't...understand. I hate to sound like this, but did you just start painting? Talking about OSL and doing true-scacle are so-called "advanced" techniques, yet the paintjob looks way to amateur. The eye glow effect is sloppy, the orange is sloppy, and I can't even tell that there IS OSL. I'm so confused by this thread...hopefully I'm wrong and the mini isn't even remotely done :s

I understand where your going with your painting (I see the attempt at lighting with the eyes, and the scorch marks on the flamer ends) and like the conversion modifications you have done (the knife is cool), but have a few critiques that may help you out.

 

First, before trying "advanced" techniques like OSL weathering etc, its best to try and learn how to paint cleanly. By this I mean painting accurate, smooth and well defined segments. Theres nothing wrong with clean marines, infact unless they are actually fighting marines armour would be spotless.

 

Secondly it might be a good idea to spend a bit of time and work on your highlighting and shading techniques. I suggest first cleanly basecoating the model then work on your shading a bit. The GW washes are ideal for that, they are infact really good. Then try drybrushing and if you think you got steady hands hard edge highlighting. Source lighting and weathering are really tough and you need the techniques before you can get a good grip on them

 

I'm not a great painter myself, but im pretty good (won a warpstone once and came in 3rd at the armies on parade at the Toronto bunker) and I still struggle with things like source lighting and weathering (never mind NMM god I will never get good at that!)

 

Good luck with your painting, keep at it and it WILL turn out awesome. Peace!

You are trying to run before you know how to walk.

 

Stuff like OSL, NMM, etc. are all advanced techniques, yes, but the are based on very simple principles and concepts. (Wet)blending, feathering, highlighting, shading, these all factor in when applying more advanced techniques, and unfortunately without that foundation - without knowledge or understanding of those basic techniques - your attempts at these more advanced methods will fail.

 

As mentioned repeatedly above, go back to the basics. Build your foundation, learn all the basic skills, and then progress up to the more difficult/advanced techniques.

 

 

DV8

 

EDIT:

PS, to pull off OSL properly and successfully, you need a working understanding of how light functions. How it reflects and bounces and interacts with objects and the enviroment. OSL 101: reflected light is never EVER as bright, or brighter, than the original light source.

Thank you for the advice. I was just playing with techniques, and the orange is more of a rust style orange. I find myself converting too much, so thusly I have too much on hand. I do have knowledge of the washes, and I have an entire army compromising of washed metallics. I have now realized I need more experience, so I'm going to get my techniques regined before I try again. Although these marines are pretty well painted considering the area I'm in. Thank you for the advice all, and if I seem overly harsh, tell me.
Erm, this is starting to really confuse me... I'm actually considering the possibility that you are an excellent troll... It's like you've never seen a picture of a fully painted model... If you're not a troll, don't get discouraged... Try harder, or my marines will eat you.
Erm, this is starting to really confuse me... I'm actually considering the possibility that you are an excellent troll... It's like you've never seen a picture of a fully painted model... If you're not a troll, don't get discouraged... Try harder, or my marines will eat you.

A troll with 93 posts? He's devoted to the cause then... But OT, Just keep working on your painting.

Yo!

 

If your working on new Marines, you mentioned you had a bunch with different metallic schemes, I'd use a very basic model, not an Actual scale Marine honor guard veteran guy.

 

Now take that simple guy and try out your scheme. Practice getting that solid block of color. Just work on a shoulderpad or something. Work with it until you start to get a cleaner smoother look. I know your going for a rust effect, that's cool. But instead of globbing some orange, try getting a brown undercoat, nice and smooth, then stipple some orange on there, and some red on there. That should look nice me thinks.

 

Believe me, most everyone here wants you to succeed. We want to see you paint nice models. But you have to be willing to take what we say and at least try to understand and implement it.

 

Clearly most posters want you to go back to basics. So can really all these people be wrong? After hearing these ideas from wise and experienced painters you should do what their saying. Their helping you so they can see your success.

 

Maybe your going for black Nurgle? But usually their Greenish or brownish correct?

 

If you really want the glowing eyes, I'd just throw a blue wash or two on there, so it shouldn't kill the model and look like a big 'ol splotch of paint.

 

Good Luck man, I too want to see your work well complimented on the Hall of Honor. P.S. You got balls dude, I'm scared of even trying glowing eyes, or converting that terminator, and your doing both! So I'll give you some BrassBall points!

The conversion work is very solid – I like the pose and atmosphere of the piece. The knife strapped to the thigh and the hook on the flamer are lovely touches, too.

 

As noted, the source lighting is an ambitious step, but I think the work that's been done has the potential to come out really well – there's clearly some decent blending work there, and the choice of black as the base colour will make it easier.

 

My suggestions to improve what has a lot of potential to be brill:

1) Dull down the reflections a little on the torso – as DV8 notes, the reflected light is never as bright as the source lighting. Where possible, refer to a real-life object; such as light cast on a black computer monitor. With apologies for the blurry pic, I think OSL for eye lenses works best when it's pretty subtle.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_w52z2ezBXbQ/SkFbHAu1c4I/AAAAAAAAAzI/x0fueR_egzI/s400/IMG_0162.JPG

 

2) Strengthen the orange areas: there are visible brushmarks, and the basecoat can be seen through it. Once these are opaque and clean, it'll lift the whole model. If you're going for a rusty appearance, stippled touches of different oranges will increase the feel of texture.

 

3) Take a little time to clean up the model as a whole – small touches make a big difference. :P

 

 

Best of luck – you've done really well on the groundwork, and a little concerted effort will really lift this piece. ;)

Erm, this is starting to really confuse me... I'm actually considering the possibility that you are an excellent troll... It's like you've never seen a picture of a fully painted model... If you're not a troll, don't get discouraged... Try harder, or my marines will eat you.

A troll with 93 posts? He's devoted to the cause then... But OT, Just keep working on your painting.

 

 

What alerts me to him being a troll, is the almost comical pride in his own work despite criticism, statements about improving this and that and almost instantly posting another picture of a similarly, in my opinion, incomplete and shoddy mini... I'm starting to think it's intentional...

 

Some people really are devoted to their cause.

  • 4 weeks later...

Yet everyone and his auntie are drawn to comment in this thread, either to slam, to encourage, or to opine on the trollishness of the poster .....

 

If it's a troll, it's highly effective troll. If it isn't, the thread certainly generates some attention from slightly superior-feeling people. (In addition to those who give advice in earnest).

 

Either way, lots of attention drawn. Well done, sir.

 

(As an aside, it's also slightly amusing to see that people with hardly any posts and/or time on this board choose to come out of the woodwork to slam the OP. If you only post 10 times a year, why this post, in particular? Why would you join B&C, then wait a year and a half before making a direct put-down of the OP your first contribution to the B&C community, EVER?)

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