slaine69 Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 ok forgive me if this is in the wrong category but I didn't want to clutter up the model tutorials with my artwork, anyway after I got a really awesome reception from you guys toward my last art post I thought I'd whip up a tutorial to say thanks, http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o215/slaine69/helm14.jpg the picture itself is simple but the technique can be applied to any pic, I used photoshop CS3 and these brushes http://adonihs.deviantart.com/art/My-Brush-Pack-118954791 1. first off 99% of this pic is done with the detailing painting brush, this step is jut to get a very rough idea of what what's in the picture it doesn't have to look like anything special, it's more to put the shapes in your head down on the paper http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o215/slaine69/helm1.jpg 2. a small bit of detailing here, again just to get an idea of where you want things to go, be very relaxed with these parts any mistakes can be sorted out later http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o215/slaine69/helm2.jpg 3. I darken the area I'm going to draw on because drawing on a darker color is a lot more easy on the eye than drawing on white, I also mapped out a bit of the light source (which is in the upper left) and darkened the appropriate areas http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o215/slaine69/helm3.jpg 4.using a much lighter gray (not white) I added some detail with the brush size reduced, this sharpens the line and hardens the color, it's still early days to don't be overly concerned with the detail http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o215/slaine69/helm4.jpg 5.increasing the size of the brush, making it softer and more opaque I use the light source to add some lighter areas to the pic giving it a better impression of depth http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o215/slaine69/helm5.jpg 6.deciding I wanted an ultramarine I blotted the appropriate colors in on a new layer http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o215/slaine69/helm6.jpg 7.for this step I simply changed the layer type from normal to vivid light, though you might find you like a different look better so go through them to see if any other take your fancy http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o215/slaine69/helm7.jpg 8.I create a new layer then with the color picker (hold down Alt) took the lightest colors on the picture and added some detail using a small size for the detail and a slightly larger size to lighten certain areas for bounce light (light reflected/bounced off different surfaces) on the right side http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o215/slaine69/helm8.jpg 9.using the color picker for the darkest parts of the picture (f.y.i the color picker will help to keep your palette consistent) I shaded the areas opposite to the the parts I just lightened I used a fairly large sized brush so the detail would still show through, you can also use a smaller brush to clean up some lines and shapes and add a little detail http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o215/slaine69/helm9.jpg 10.going back to the small bright brush I filled in some more detail then went back to the dark brush and done the same, the more you do this the higher the level of detail you will get and the more shading values you will have, with the scratches I just went around the edges of the armor with a small brush and placed random lines, the less exact you are with this the more plausible the scratches will look after all they are just accidents of shrapnel and bullets, I also added a deep crimson for the base of the eyes http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o215/slaine69/helm10.jpg 11. anyone who paints the models will know whats happened here, using the light source I brightened up the eyes, one thing to remember when you use the gradient box to pick your color is to go from upper left to lower bottom (hee hee I said bottom) as the lighter a color is the less colorful it is and the darker it is it's more colorful, this tip'll help you out if you need to do a scene with distance background=light less color, foreground=dark more color http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o215/slaine69/helm11.jpg 12.this is the only time in this picture I change the type of brush and I change it to the lighting brush, on a new layer I go around the eyes and add what should look like a glow http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o215/slaine69/helm12.jpg 13. I then change this layer to color dodge and get a pretty cool lighting effect http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o215/slaine69/helm13.jpg 14. on a new layer I add some final details, red on some of the armor to reflect the eyes, white on the eyes for a bit more sheen and that vent thingy on the top of his head, I have no idea what that thing is and you're done http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o215/slaine69/helm14.jpg a couple of things to remember, experiment loads it's the best way to learn, don't be anal with the picture because it's just a picture and if you can paint a model you will have no trouble doing anything like this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honda Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 Excellent tutorial and image, thanx for putting that together. I would like to point out one thing, because it was pointed out to me, and that is, it seems unlikely that the lens glow would occur on the brow above the lens. The brow tends to project out too much to allow for the bending of light. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aqatone Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 A lot of artists like to exaggerate the lens glow of the visors for effect and to also add in eject from the bolter's even though we all know they are caseless rounds. Art is art :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgtNACHO Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 A lot of artists like to exaggerate the lens glow of the visors for effect and to also add in eject from the bolter's even though we all know they are caseless rounds. Art is art :D the current fluff for Bolter rounds is that they aren't caseless, their casing holds compressed air, when thhe round is fired the compressed air ejects the Bolt out of the barrel and then proceeds to fire its gyros and rocket towards its target. So They do have a casing. Nice picture, I can never get Photoshop to work for me, I can't even get the dumb paintbrushes to work. Ah well. nice picture though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaptermaster Graymantle Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 Great looking picture slaine69, and a good explanation of the process too. More stuff like this would be a great boon for the growing art community of the B&C. Keep it up! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mortarion Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 Nice picture and a good tutorial. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MalevolentMc Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 If i had Photoshop, believe i would be doing this right now! Excellent excellent imagery and art style, and great tutorial! - MMC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hidje Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 excellent lad :D thanks a hell of a lot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NemFX Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 Looks more Night Lords than Ultramarines, but I like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaplain Septimus Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 A lot of artists like to exaggerate the lens glow of the visors for effect and to also add in eject from the bolter's even though we all know they are caseless rounds. Art is art ;) the current fluff for Bolter rounds is that they aren't caseless, their casing holds compressed air, when thhe round is fired the compressed air ejects the Bolt out of the barrel and then proceeds to fire its gyros and rocket towards its target. So They do have a casing. Besides... virtually every bolter model out there comes with ejection ports, so modelling spent casings makes sense! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freakiq Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 Excellent tutorial and image, thanx for putting that together. I would like to point out one thing, because it was pointed out to me, and that is, it seems unlikely that the lens glow would occur on the brow above the lens. The brow tends to project out too much to allow for the bending of light. Thoughts? The glow on the brow represents the halo of light you see when looking at a light source. Look at this street lamp, how could it possibly cast a light on the air around it? Unrealistic! ;) http://www.pha.jhu.edu/~atolea/second/Balt_lamps3.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philpill Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 Ah, but then you could argue that it wouldn't make sense for a marine's eyepieces to emit any light at all ... Good tutorial tho'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freakiq Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 Ah, but then you could argue that it wouldn't make sense for a marine's eyepieces to emit any light at all ... Good tutorial tho'. 40k is about coolness, not making sense. Otherwise why do we have titans instead of nuclear weapons? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDarker Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 ¿Who says we don´t have nuclear weapons? We have, but we put them on mountain-sized robots of war. Because, you know, rocks. Also, marvellous painting, hope i can draw as faster and as cool as you. I could have mi webcomic alive and not in stasis :tu: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaine69 Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 cheers dudes I'll try and get some more tutorials on the go in the future, also yes the visor would stop light from bleeding in the to of the helmet and the eyes wouldn't really glow but it's all in the interest of badassery and you would be able to use this technique for parts of the body, armor or weapons that do glow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
insectus Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 great tutorial! thanks! I've got one question did you paint it/draw it with a tablet? because when i choose the detail brush it's not realy transparent and it doesn't get darker when i click on one point a couple of times...I have to change the color thanks for the answer :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retributis Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 You need to lower the opacity Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarInHeaven Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 very helpfull, thanks! <_< i'll try something like this myself tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaine69 Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 insectus- yeah dude I do indeed use a pen tablet, it kinda sorts out the pressure sensitivity problem and lowering the opacity of the brush is another way to go for building up colour/shade, there is also the other dynamics option in the brush menu that can help you to get the gradients that you want though I don't know how they would react to a mouse WarInHeaven-sweet dude look forward to seeing it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jord-Tron 5000 Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 Very nice tutorial! As a fellow illustrator, I find working on a 50% gray background (instead of white) helps me immensely when building up my values. You might want to give it a try! Plus, you won't have to "darken" the figure area before adding in color. I don't care what other people say, the eye lens glow rocks. ^_^ Keep up the good work! -Jord Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.