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Crimson Fist Vanguard


Dusktiger

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so, i decided i liked the idea of a small CF army to suppliment my salamanders 5th company. since i had this lovely vanguard squad that wasnt being used for anything, i decied they'd be the start of my supplimentary force. i'm making a 5 man unit with 2 power swords, the sgt with a relic blade. i didnt like the chainsword/plasma ones cause who really wants a guy that blows his face off with his own gun, and cause 2/5 of the unit to drop? so those two im changing to SS/TH ones instead. here's the first one so far.

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im trying to think what to cut the white with to darken it enough that its not so shockingly white. i have some watered down badab black in stock.

my blue is Reaper metallic sapphire, and my red is Reaper Ruby Red.

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quick update. i decided to only keep the helmets white to show they're not regular assault marines just by glancing at them. the ones with re-inforced edges on the pauldrons have that lip in red, and the trim on the packs are red as well. first squad of a 1000pt CF army! yay!

gallery_39941_3182_823790.jpg

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Look good for table top standards as you haven't gone "out of the lines". However they do look a little flat and some ink or washes would really help them. For some ideas on what you could use. A watered down black or dark blue would give the blue armour some depth. Some brown ink or wash on the gold and red for more depth... especially the gold. Black wash or ink on the silver and green for depth... the silver looks very flat and the green is too bright. The white doesn't need anything as extreme as a watered down wash, especially a it could leave an undesirable side effect. Use one of the grey foundation paints on the edges of the helmet. I use Adeptus Battlegrey but you could use something else if you wanted.

 

Cheers, Messanger

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Use either your Badab Black or some Asurmen Blue wash (or Reaper equivalents) on the helmets, and maybe some Badab Black or Gryphonne Sepia or Devlan Mud on the gold bits, and the green cabling on the Thunder Hammer.

 

Basically, the whle squad need some washes- they really do improve them.

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yea, ill prolly get the sepia wash for the gold, i agree it needs to have more depth. the blue in not worried over cause its a metallic and has depth under real lighting. camera just never wants to show it. >.>

 

after this, i have a combat squad of assault marines, and terminators im gonna do.

 

anyone got a color suggestion for my power swords? something thatll stand out and make you go "oh! he's got a power sword!"

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My brother and I both use (i.e. I stole it from him) a blue power sword. Ice blue basecoat, highlight all the hard edges with some skull white, then plenty (PLENTY) of unwatered Asurmen Blue. The wash all pools on the flat bits, because there aren't any crevices, and it makes a serious contrast between the nearly-white edges and the fairly-deep blue flats.
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Dusktiger, are the vanguard veterans like most other metal models where the arms have a sort of elbow shaped joint or some kind of specific pose for the arms (the first boxed set of metal jump packless veterans were like this)? Are the arms glued onto a flat surface like that on tactical marines? Basically what I'm asking is are the VG arms easily swapped with say honor guard parts without cutting or modding the original model?
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the vanguards come in 3 pieces; pack, an arm, and the rest of the body. the arms have a tiny triangle that sticks out of the torso to plug into a tiny triangle hole in the arm that comes separate. its thin enough, and the metals soft enough that you can either use a file to scrape it down so any arm will sit on the vanguard torso, or scrape it off with your modelling knife in slow careful scrapes. the arm that comes separate can be placed on any tactical marine body.

 

the only exception is the sergeant as he comes with a relic blade held two-handed. one arm stops at the wrist and comes separate from the body, and the other arm is also separate and has that hand on the blade, and the missing hand of the other arm is also on the grip of the blade. unless they've been mishapen in transport, these will fit flush on any marine torso as they also have those indents for the triangles on the sergeants torso.

 

those triangles make it alot easier to glue the arms on due to their weight causes mosts glues not to adhere before the weight drops them off. so long as you use CA glue that bonds in 2-10 seconds, that'll kept them from falling off.

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