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Nemeses


Gyson_Vore

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To be an Inquisitor, one must come face to face with horrors that can rip the semblance of sanity from a mortals mind. Even more so is this true for the Ordo Malleus, who must constantly oppose beings of the warp. Some survive to fight another day with more knowledge on how to destroy their foe, some die in service to His Immortal Emperor. Some however suffer a fate far worse, and fall to the very corruption they fight. One example is Inquisitor Vael Malstrom

 

http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/1692/pa100302.th.jpg

 

To remove this delusional beings from the galaxy and protect the Imperium of Man, the Ordo Hereticus must strive to defeat the possessed entities that were once some of the Emperor's most loyal servants. To this end, Inquisitor Maximilian Tornias must do all in his power, even sacrifice his own life, to bring evil to an end in the name of the Emperor.

 

http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/7744/pa100299.th.jpg

 

The models are from Forge World, Inquisitor Solomon Lok and Renegade Militia Commander respectively. They are forming the leaders of Hereticus force and a Renegade Space Marine Chapter I have. The paint and photos are rough, but I think I did a decent job. Any suggestions to make them better?

If you click on the pictures, you can make them bigger.

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Use less flash and say who is who the right way round? :huh:

 

Not bad paintjobs, a little more depth perhaps. Kinda hard to see with the flash, but a bit more care and washes might do the trick.

It is the right way, the text is above the model that it is supposed to be with. I wish I knew how to turn off the flash, but nothing I do manages it. Is there a specific setting you need to do it on?

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I won't comment on the models, as they're too blurry to make out anything but the fact that they are models, and that they have paint on them.

 

A few points on photographing your miniatures though:

 

Firstly, Flash. Never, ever, EVER photograph your models close up with Flash on, because it floods the area with light, washes out all manner of highlights/shading, and makes your models look harsh and ugly. The only time I'd even consider using flash is when photographing an entire army, or when you're taking snapshots of a game (and even then, having decent lighting and a tripod to stabilize your camera is better).

 

Most cameras have a button to enable and disable Flash. It is a button with a lightning bolt icon on it.

 

Second point. Stabilize your camera. Either rest it on a table, or a table with a stack of books, or a tripod. Some camera 101. What we see is a reflection of light. A camera takes pictures by "capturing" this light via a shutter that opens and closes to let in this light. The purpose of Flash is to flood the area with light as the shutter snaps open and close, allowing for this huge amount of light information to be captured by the camera.

 

Without this Flash, your camera has to capture using the natural light around. Most cameras also have what's called auto-adjust, which in a nutshell regulates how long the shutter will stay open in order to capture more or less light. Auto-adjust analyzes the amount of light around and will make this adjustment on its own. SO, without Flash, you will find that the camera takes a little longer to take pictures, meaning you have to hold the camera still longer, to take a non-blurry photo.

 

Third point. Every camera has a minimum and a maximum focus distance. This is the range at which a camera can successfully focus onto an object and retain its detail without blurring. The maximum focus isn't really an issue when photographing models, but the minimum focus is. This is the minimum distance an object can be from the camera in order for it to focus.

 

For example, a camera has a minimum focus depth of 30 inches. That means that any objects closer than 30 inches, will always appear blurry. Another camera has a minimum focus depth of 15 inch. That means you can hold the camera up to 15 inches away from an object and still get the camera to focus on the object.

 

Most cameras have what is called a Macro feature. This tells the camera that you want it to focus more on closer objects, and this drastically improves the minimum focus depth.

 

As an example, I use a Sony T7 camera. It has a minimum focus depth of just under 20 inches. However, with Macro on, that drops to just over 3 inches. This drastically improves the amount of detail that I can capture, AND means I can position my lighting to improve the picture quality.

 

Most cameras also have a button to enable Macro. It is a button with a flower icon on it.

 

Hope that helps.

 

 

DV8

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I won't comment on the models, as they're too blurry to make out anything but the fact that they are models, and that they have paint on them.

 

A few points on photographing your miniatures though:

 

Firstly, Flash. Never, ever, EVER photograph your models close up with Flash on, because it floods the area with light, washes out all manner of highlights/shading, and makes your models look harsh and ugly. The only time I'd even consider using flash is when photographing an entire army, or when you're taking snapshots of a game (and even then, having decent lighting and a tripod to stabilize your camera is better).

 

Most cameras have a button to enable and disable Flash. It is a button with a lightning bolt icon on it.

 

Second point. Stabilize your camera. Either rest it on a table, or a table with a stack of books, or a tripod. Some camera 101. What we see is a reflection of light. A camera takes pictures by "capturing" this light via a shutter that opens and closes to let in this light. The purpose of Flash is to flood the area with light as the shutter snaps open and close, allowing for this huge amount of light information to be captured by the camera.

 

Without this Flash, your camera has to capture using the natural light around. Most cameras also have what's called auto-adjust, which in a nutshell regulates how long the shutter will stay open in order to capture more or less light. Auto-adjust analyzes the amount of light around and will make this adjustment on its own. SO, without Flash, you will find that the camera takes a little longer to take pictures, meaning you have to hold the camera still longer, to take a non-blurry photo.

 

Third point. Every camera has a minimum and a maximum focus distance. This is the range at which a camera can successfully focus onto an object and retain its detail without blurring. The maximum focus isn't really an issue when photographing models, but the minimum focus is. This is the minimum distance an object can be from the camera in order for it to focus.

 

For example, a camera has a minimum focus depth of 30 inches. That means that any objects closer than 30 inches, will always appear blurry. Another camera has a minimum focus depth of 15 inch. That means you can hold the camera up to 15 inches away from an object and still get the camera to focus on the object.

 

Most cameras have what is called a Macro feature. This tells the camera that you want it to focus more on closer objects, and this drastically improves the minimum focus depth.

 

As an example, I use a Sony T7 camera. It has a minimum focus depth of just under 20 inches. However, with Macro on, that drops to just over 3 inches. This drastically improves the amount of detail that I can capture, AND means I can position my lighting to improve the picture quality.

 

Most cameras also have a button to enable Macro. It is a button with a flower icon on it.

 

Hope that helps.

 

 

DV8

Thanks, that does help a lot. I spent a few hours today trying how to figure out how to turn off the darn flash.

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