Merkava Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 When i saw the 2 days and 750 pts left i was skeptical but you are amazing! That grey formula is copied and waiting for the tutorial. I got 1850 pts of SW waiting in the wing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjelnir Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 So just to be clear. You first spray on fenris grey then shadow grey and last of all space wolf grey. And then just wash the whole thing in devlan mud ? Looking forward to the head tut :huh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekgar_Wolf Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 So just to be clear. You first spray on fenris grey then shadow grey and last of all space wolf grey. And then just wash the whole thing in devlan mud ? Looking forward to the head tut And don´t forget black priming... Congrats for finishing in time. Does that mean we can´t have a pre-wash pic?? :huh: Anyway, let me ask you another one: do you paint details (eagles, plates, skulls, the shoulders) before or after the wash? Im too waiting for the faces tutorial... PS: I will give this method a try with some old and ugly plastic termis I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cathar the great Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 Good job and I'm looking forward to that tutorial. The idea with the cookie box and magnetized bases is so incredibly awesome! I always thought about means of mini transportation without large foam stuff and the like. Do you put some sort of spacers in the cookie boxes so that the minis cannot move about? Or do you just put magnets on the bases and hope they will stay in place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt.nuss Posted November 30, 2009 Author Share Posted November 30, 2009 So just to be clear. You first spray on fenris grey then shadow grey and last of all space wolf grey. And then just wash the whole thing in devlan mud ? Right. The art in that is more or less, to find out that this way works ;-) Anyway, let me ask you another one: do you paint details (eagles, plates, skulls, the shoulders) before or after the wash? With the base colour before the wash. So, the base colour for that detail. What would be brown for thegold parts, and red für the red parts, and so on. Then the wash. Then the details are worked out, and all the "mistakes" that the wash makes, are cleared. The idea with the cookie box and magnetized bases is so incredibly awesome! I always thought about means of mini transportation without large foam stuff and the like. Do you put some sort of spacers in the cookie boxes so that the minis cannot move about? Or do you just put magnets on the bases and hope they will stay in place? I always do it that way, with all my armies. They are magnetized with "magnet bases". Thats a flat magent foil, already cut to the right size, and you even dont need extra glue. Just attach to the base, and thats it. You do not need to do anything else. This way you save real amounts of space, and your minis do not have to get in contact with foam, which may 'scratch' of colour. Its well sticky enough, that you dont have to worry, not in a car, and not from carrying them around. You can even flip them over, no point, it all stays in place. For my Marines, i even have a metal dread (!) magnetized this way, and even that fat bugger can be turned upside down, without it moving. Im too waiting for the faces tutorial... Well, its in fact so easy, that i wonder what exactly i might explain to you, that really helps and that you might be interested in. There is just no 'secret ingredient' or sth... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preator Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 firstly i must say that you have done a fantastic job on these minis and very inspiring with the time frame! its nice to see such a coherent look to your army would it be possible for you to do a (picture) stage by stage tutorial for the armour please? great job :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthen Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 So just to be clear. You first spray on fenris grey then shadow grey and last of all space wolf grey. And then just wash the whole thing in devlan mud ? Right. The art in that is more or less, to find out that this way works ;-) wait wait what - the armor is actually *sprayed* on? no wonder i had trouble trying to replicate the look by hand. 5 star thread Capt. Nuss, you are a phenomenal artist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjelnir Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 He alread said how to do it. The only difference is he uses a spray gun instead of painting it on. But a stage by stage would be nice there's no denying that. EDIT: Damn you guys post fast :) Yeah I had the same problem when I tried a test arm. I am planning to buy the citadel spray gun to replicate the effect since I place high value on quick and easy painting techniques. But I would be intrested Captain.Nuss what sort of spray gun you use ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthen Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 i think he must have used more than just the three base colors though. Im guessing like 5... fenris grey, 50/50 mix, shadow grey, 50/50 mix, SW grey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt.nuss Posted November 30, 2009 Author Share Posted November 30, 2009 I guess for such painting, it does not really matter what spray gun it is exactly... and its exactly 3 stages, not 5 or sth., fenris, shadow, then sw grey thats about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordbrother Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 You made it, congrats! I never thought you would. But you did and that makes you very awesome in my eyes. You got to have a serious photo session with these guys soon. I want to lavish in their awesomeness. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthen Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 really. wow. kudos to that man. You have a fantastic style of painting. congrats on the army, truly inspiring me to get on the horse with my wolves. -earthen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tannen Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 I don't think you can replicate the formula with a brush. Spraying the models airgun and even more so airbrush will give the color alot of opacity, at least the space wolves gray. going to try with my airbrush tho i think i will skipp the black primer and go for a fenris gray primed model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt.nuss Posted November 30, 2009 Author Share Posted November 30, 2009 Here are perhaps vome nicer shots http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j92/wieims/WolvesVonNuss4.jpg http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j92/wieims/WolvesVonNuss5.jpg http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j92/wieims/Wolves6.jpg Ready for the table But still many things to clean up and many details to add. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legio Draconis Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 Dude, if that's you painting quick I must check out the stuff you took some time on, well done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthen Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 I don't think you can replicate the formula with a brush. Spraying the models airgun and even more so airbrush will give the color alot of opacity, at least the space wolves gray. going to try with my airbrush tho i think i will skipp the black primer and go for a fenris gray primed model. yeah. thats a good point. I tried with a white primer and hand painted to test it out, it came out alot more blue even with a double wash on the armor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt.nuss Posted November 30, 2009 Author Share Posted November 30, 2009 I don't think you can replicate the formula with a brush. You could, but with 10 times the time. going to try with my airbrush tho i think i will skipp the black primer and go for a fenris gray primed model. not a good idea. The Primer is needed because its a primer, not because its black. a Primer is the basis, so that the added colour later on will stick to the model nicely, and it gives the even texture needed. I'd never recommend painting an unprimed model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tannen Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 I don't think you can replicate the formula with a brush. You could, but with 10 times the time. going to try with my airbrush tho i think i will skipp the black primer and go for a fenris gray primed model. not a good idea. The Primer is needed because its a primer, not because its black. a Primer is the basis, so that the added colour later on will stick to the model nicely, and it gives the even texture needed. I'd never recommend painting an unprimed model. Actually the new foundation works as a primer quite well. I painted a whole ork army with caltan brown as primer. Even though i primed outside my body didnt react too great to the spray/sprayed models, So tried painting on foundation paints instedd. i have to get a respirator mask before i start the airbrushing tho hehe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Loring Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 You can buy a paint-on primer, which works pretty well. Just a little more time consuming than spraying. Superb result by the way. How many hours do you think it took - roughly??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt.nuss Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 To prime or not to prime.... thats not the question to me. In fact, anyone can do with own minis whatever he wants, but to change to paint-on primer, to save the time for the spray primer is... way off target. No fronts. But i find it really hard to see the use in 'not priming'. roughly the army like its on the pics took 80hrs, from buying to basing; magnetizing stuff included. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjgarces Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 I'm always priming my minis specially the metallic ones and when I paint them with airbrush. The layers are so thin, and its easy to accidentally scrap the paint. Priming with spray is quick, easy and cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordbrother Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Actually many high end competition painters never prime their showcase models, primer is very thick when sprayed on. Even if it doesn't matter at all in this case. But it can make quite the difference in competitions. You probably know this already though, so never mind. Now I will continue to praise you a bit! Much better pictures this time, glad u took the time. They look even more awesome en mass. But you got to make a display stand for them, seriously. With a rocky arctic environment around them they will win Best Appearance on most tournaments, guaranteed. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjgarces Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 I'm disagree with this, top painters always prime the models, if you want a thin layer of primer you always can airbrush it: http://www.swannysmodels.com/Surfacer.html Capt.nuss, congratulations for your workflow and your sucess making your army. You have discovered the balance between speed and quality. :cuss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordbrother Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 You are right. What I meant was top painters don't use spray primer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Loring Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 I agree Capt. Nuss! Painting primer is never going to help save time. I only mentioned it as somebody had a reaction to spray-priming. This would probably also happen if you used the propellant cans when air brushing, but would probably be okay with an air compressor. Anyway this probably isn't really the place to discuss these things, sorry Capt. Nuss! 80 hours is pretty remarkable for 32 (?) terminators of that quality with so many option! That makes them all the more impressive in my eyes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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