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Weighing down slotted bases?


Devon M

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he cheapest I've found is epoxy + nails (the hammering kind). I cut the nails to whatever lengths i need to fill the base and then glue them in with an epoxy gel. Though I'm starting to lean towards making a mold of sorts and melting solder or similar metals into it and then using that.

 

because shotgun pellets (small bb's may work if not to big) are spheres they will fill a round space better than most other options (including my nails suggestion) and because they are most likely steel they will prolly be a little heavier (not much though).

depends on how much heavier you want to make your models.

 

If only a little extra in needed, I used this method on all my SOB seraphim, and they no longer fall over

 

Do a squad at a time and once models have been super-glued into the slotta bases, mix a small amount of car body filler at a time (5 minutes working time) and use it to fill both the two bottom sections AND the slot , then press down onto a piece of masking paper to expel any exess filler, leave for a few minutes until set hard then trim off any exess with a craft knife BEFORE it fully cures, and peel off the tape. Leave models on their sides to allow filler to fully cure.

I've been looking for this solution recntly, as well. I need my bases to be directionally-weighted to counterbalance my Assault Marines with pewter jump packs. They tend to fall backward, so I want weight in the front.

 

I went looking for good old fashioned lead fishing sinkers, only to discover that lead fish sinkers are now illegal in Maine, as is lead shotgun pellet load. I had plans to buy a spool of lead solder and just coil it up and glue in place, but I can't find THAT either. It's like lead is now scarce or something!

 

You can buy larger lead fishing weights, but they're HUGE and I don't feel like sawing a million little chunks out of them.

I've been looking for this solution recntly, as well. I need my bases to be directionally-weighted to counterbalance my Assault Marines with pewter jump packs. They tend to fall backward, so I want weight in the front.

 

I went looking for good old fashioned lead fishing sinkers, only to discover that lead fish sinkers are now illegal in Maine, as is lead shotgun pellet load. I had plans to buy a spool of lead solder and just coil it up and glue in place, but I can't find THAT either. It's like lead is now scarce or something!

 

You can buy larger lead fishing weights, but they're HUGE and I don't feel like sawing a million little chunks out of them.

 

i tend to save all the bits of metal i.e the tags etc and stick those in the two halves. Works quite well to be honest.

 

Alex

 

I've done this as well. As an option, seek out a tire place. Weights are always having to be removed when mounting and balancing new tires, ask for (and even provide an empty coffee can if you like) the old ones "for a project". Tell them it's for a pinewood derby entry or whatever. Hobby Lobby and similar sometimes stock weights for pinewood derby kits. Otherwise, old models or those that have been scavenged can be melted down in similar fashion. Carve out a groove or whatever shape you like (to make the cooled shape more managable) in a 2x4 scrap, then melt and pour. When cool just snip off what you need for each model and glue/epoxy or attach however you prefer it into place.

I've been looking for this solution recntly, as well. I need my bases to be directionally-weighted to counterbalance my Assault Marines with pewter jump packs. They tend to fall backward, so I want weight in the front.

 

I went looking for good old fashioned lead fishing sinkers, only to discover that lead fish sinkers are now illegal in Maine, as is lead shotgun pellet load. I had plans to buy a spool of lead solder and just coil it up and glue in place, but I can't find THAT either. It's like lead is now scarce or something!

 

You can buy larger lead fishing weights, but they're HUGE and I don't feel like sawing a million little chunks out of them.

 

if you want it only on the front, try nuts (like bolt and nut) or washers.

A mini is actually very light compared to other materials you can use to weight them down. For example the a plastic mini is about 1.1 g/cm3 in density while nickel is 8.9 g/cm3 and the pewter in the metal mini's is about 9g/cm3 if i had to guess.

 

quick look at lowes (since you stated you in the US) a 10 pack of small steel washers is about $0.56

I use Tungsten disks that are sold by the ounce from shops that cater to the boy scouts and their pinewood derby cars. Tungsten is significantly more dense than lead and so you can pack more weight in an area. I use them on both slotted and unslotted bases. They work especially well on unbalanced models like hormagaunts and zoanthropes. I cover them with green stuff after the glue has set.
  • 3 weeks later...
Steel putty. its pretty weighty, and ries very quickly. For the future, I would consider buying some 'non slotta' bases, removing the greyknights tab and gluing a penny/equivilent to the underside of the base, and pinning the greyknight on (there will be a gap around the edge of the penny)
Metal 1" washers are the EXACT same size as the bottom of a 25mm base but they are 5 for close to 3 dollars( hardly more practical than split lead shot at 1 pound of lead for 5 bucks). On all my non 40k miniatures I use 1"diameter washers. They weight down my necromunda figures and metal minis from other companies just fine.

Why would you not just use washers ?? That's way easier then all this other stuff (cutting nails, melting lead from tire weights ?? :huh:

Prime them first so glue sticks better.

Ironblood, I don't know where you are buying washers from, 5 for $3 !?

At any hardware store a box of washers (40-50 or so) should less then $10.

Why would you not just use washers ?? That's way easier then all this other stuff (cutting nails, melting lead from tire weights ?? ^_^

Prime them first so glue sticks better.

Ironblood, I don't know where you are buying washers from, 5 for $3 !?

At any hardware store a box of washers (40-50 or so) should less then $10.

 

from lowes, the 1 inch by 1/16 of an inch washers that are actualy weighty and not 1/4" diameter paper thin washers that do nothing.

I use 1" washers, superglued to the base. They're the same size, and weigh down plastics nicely. They probably won't work as well on unbalanced metal models, though, and I haven't looked for washers in larger sizes, like 40mm.

 

Aye, 25mm/1" washers from any DIY shop work perfectly to weigh down all-plastic minis and give them a nicer feeling when handling, as well as providing a more solid base for unbalanced models (my 3rd company Standard Bearer, for instance, who I oddly decided should be thrusting his banner as forward and as high as it could get, meaning he fell over at every opportunity before I tacked the 25mm washer on).

 

Plus they're cheap, as I picked up a handful for 5p each.

  • 3 months later...

If you are inclined to use shot/bb's, Avoid the bb's as they are slightly bigger than the base. What you want is a #1 or #2 shot, this is steel, and both are smaller than the bb's and fit perfectly inside the base and weight it down conisderably.

 

A Copper BB has a diameter of 4.57 mm, so you can either use the number one shot at 4.06 mm, or number 2 shot at 3.81 mm, both should fit flush inside the base. And they are easier to affix to the base than a washer and once glued in you wont have to worry about them falling out.

 

You can typically buy these in bulk at gun shops that repack ammo. Although I would guess the price depends on the area your in.

  • 2 months later...

Devon the simple and most effective way to add weight to the base is well as you mentioned shotgun pellets.( bird shot or shot by other names. )

 

You just need to find a place that sells it loose, ( like a gun or shooters pro shop ) they would use it to pack and load there own shells, but for us its perfect. When do manage to find a place that sells it, I would recommend getting a bag of #9 shot, ( the smaller the better. ) it should come in a canvas bag weighting about 11 Kg. ( 24 lb )

If you find this is too much to use trade or split the bag with friends.

On a side note this stuff is or should no longer be LEAD, if that is your fear I believe now days its steel pellets.

To add it to the bases, just FEW drops of PVA add the pellets and level them out and wait for it to dry, top it with a drop or two of superglue.

Similar to shotgun pellets or BBs, I found a supplier of fishing weights; small spheres of steel, cut nearly in half, for fixing to fishing line (I think, I'm not an angler).

The larger sizes have to be split, and smaller ones fit in a slotta-base quite well.

On a side note this stuff is or should no longer be LEAD, if that is your fear I believe now days its steel pellets.

 

I believe this to be incorrect...

If I recall correctly, lead is the favorite metal to make shot out of because it is the cheapest by far. If you don't believe me, compare the prices between a box of regular (lead) shells and a box of steel shells. If you want lead-free pellets, you'd probably need to request or special order them specifically.

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