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More Imperial Fists


Vash113

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So I've gotten some more Imperial Fists finished, my 3rd Company Command Squad and the 3rd Tactical Squad. Unfortunately the pics didn't turn out too well and the lighting makes the yellow look much more flat than it does in person. Oh well here they are anyway:

 

Command Squad Front

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m307/Vash113/Imperial%20Fists/IMG_0851-1.jpg

 

Command Squad Back

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m307/Vash113/Imperial%20Fists/IMG_0853-1.jpg

 

Standard Bearer

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m307/Vash113/Imperial%20Fists/IMG_0854-1.jpg

 

Apothecary

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m307/Vash113/Imperial%20Fists/IMG_0856-1.jpg

 

Sergeant

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m307/Vash113/Imperial%20Fists/IMG_0855-1.jpg

 

Special Weapon Veteran

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m307/Vash113/Imperial%20Fists/IMG_0857-1.jpg

 

Company Champion

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m307/Vash113/Imperial%20Fists/IMG_0858-1.jpg

 

Tactical Squad Front

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m307/Vash113/Imperial%20Fists/IMG_0859-1.jpg

 

Tactical Squad Right

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m307/Vash113/Imperial%20Fists/IMG_0861-1.jpg

 

Tactical Squad Left

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m307/Vash113/Imperial%20Fists/IMG_0860-1.jpg

 

So there ya have it. So far that's 30 Tactical Marines, 5 Command Squad Marines, 12 Devastators, 5 Terminators, Terminator Chaplain, Terminator Librarian, Captain, Chaplain, Dreadnaught and Landspeeder done. I still have 16 Scouts, 6 Assault Marines, 5 Bikes and 1 Attack Bike to paint, but I'm getting there, the to do list is now a good deal shorter than the finished list. :lol:

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Probably a good idea to post a comment, as well as a helpful link....

 

I think they stand out a lot, which is excellent, but as c-wrex said the paint does appear very thick... are you using the foundation paints by the way? Iyanden darksun gives a really strong layer to apply yellow to... also Vallejo do an excellent liquid yellow, thats basically a golden yellow thick ink (which when mixed with iyanden dark sun, provides the best glazing layer to blend highlights, and makes the model really 'pop').

 

Keep up the hard work! I like the free hand on the knee pads etc.

I would think that the link was all the explanation needed but here goes:

 

Pros:

You're good at keeping paint within the lines

You're good at freehand (although the lines representing scripture are overdone, you'd be better off without them)

You've chosen a striking color scheme

Your freehanded banner is great

 

Cons:

Your paint is too thick

Your models are unfiled

The green base looks terrible with the Imperial Fist colors

 

Suggestions:

One or two coats of Iyanden followed by Babdab black (at least)

Remove the scripture lines

Change the base color to brown perhaps, or leave it at black

File your models

You're definitely on the right track! Those are some nice looking Fists.

Kudos on the freehand! Most players are way too chicken (or just lazy) to try that, and it works!

 

A few things though:

 

1. Get rid of those mould lines! It only takes a few minutes per mini to remove mould lines, but it is worth it because they look so damn awful!

2. Consider shading your minis. It is a simple process and it gives so much more depth.

3. Perhaps a darker colour for your bases? Brown or even black/grey would make a big difference and really make your guys stand out.

 

If you want some inspiration, here are some of my Imperial Fists:

BobaHat's Imperial Fists

 

and here is my recipe for how to paint yellow:

 

-White undercoat

-Several layers of watered down Golden Yellow (until it's a nice even layer)

-Carefully shade all recesses with watered down Flesh Wash/Ink a few times (not Yellow Ink... That stuff looks like crap)

-A simple glaze of Skull White with VERY watered down Golden Yellow

-Finally, a highlight with watered down pure Skull White on the very highest areas.

 

And that's it! ;) No boring layering or building up the yellow. The secret is a white undercoat and having the patience to correct mistakes (which takes for ages with yellow). For example, if you accidentally get a black spot on a yellow area, you need to do the WHOLE THING all over again on that area (so undercoat, usually with several layers of white followed by yellow etc.).

 

And it looks like you have got the insignia down pretty well, but here's a link to an article I wrote a while back about IF colours and insignia:

Imperial Fists colours and insignia

 

Happy painting! Always a pleasure to see a fellow Brother of the Chapter!

I guess I'll start with the paint thickness, the coat isn't all that thick actually, the pics just make it look that way. If you look close at the closeup pics you can see all the armor details, they're just yellow. I really need to get around to washing the armor or black lining those details, I just haven't practiced with washes enough to try them on the fists yet. I have a spare BFBR model sitting around, maybe I'll paint him up as IF and give washes a try.

 

I'm thinking a coat of gryphonne sepia over all the yellow armor segments followed by a light golden yellow and then sunburst yellow dry brush? Something like that.

 

The recipe I'm using is as follows:

Chaos Black Primer coat

1-2 Coats of watered down Iyanden Darksun

1-2 Coats of watered down Golden Yellow

1 Drybrush coat of Sunburst yellow

 

And yea fixing mistakes is a time consuming process.

 

I'm surprised about the base color comments, I usually go with a simple snot green because it's a classic GW base color and I use it with most of my armies. You guys think scorched brown or codex grey would look better?

 

I guess that's something I could try on aforementioned guinea pig model.

 

As for the freehand it just takes practice, I never would have tried something like the banner a year ago, but started with small things and just kept trying and improving.

I'd go with a darker base, they work nicely with yellow marines :) I prefer black/grey (check my sig) but dark brown works too. Try to search the hall of honour for imperial fists and be amazed at the awsomeness of some of the stuff shown.

 

It's also a good way to see what colours work well with each other and yellow (shoulder guard trimmings, plasma weapon coils, purity seals etc)

 

Good luck!

I think the effort is there, just file down those mold lines!

 

Personally I prefer plain black-rimmed bases; simple and effective.

 

I rarely see a painted army with black bases, I suppose it's not a bad idea but I generally tend to prefere at least some color on the bases.

Vash I like what you've done, it really is in the details though.

 

You're right Yellow is all about the base coat. A lot of highlighting is wasted on brighter coloured marines. I'd recommend spending some time on 'low lighting' or adding... depth to the armour for a more 3-4 effect.

 

There are some great suggestions above, but a very easy method I've been working on is to simply use the Gryphone Sephia (sp?) wash. You have to be carefull with it but it is not too dark to go back and patch up your errors with watered down Golden Yellow.

 

Try the Sephia wash in the crevasses, and armour plating lines. In my opinion it is time better spent to do this rather than build up colour. It brings depth to the marines. There's a few ways of doing this... some are more labour intensive, some less, but I am finding with my fists the wash gives you some leeway and 'quickly' gives you some depth.

 

Great start though. Keep it up!

Love Imperial fist armies, great fluff and if I HAD to but a loyalist marine army [hawk and spit] then it would be Fists.

 

Yeah you could do with thinning down your paints and using boltgun for the weapons [they look too light to me] but just good to see a painted army. You can always go back and chuck them in some brake fluid if you really want to make them better at some point. Definitely seeing the models imrpove with each post though.

Go with Scorched Brown. That works best.

 

That does seem like a good complimentary color, a darker and less garrish earth tone... I'll try that on a test model and see if I like the end result.

 

Vash I like what you've done, it really is in the details though.

 

A little difficult to decipher your intended meaning there but it sounds like a compliment so thanks.

 

Try the Sephia wash in the crevasses, and armour plating lines. In my opinion it is time better spent to do this rather than build up colour. It brings depth to the marines. There's a few ways of doing this... some are more labour intensive, some less, but I am finding with my fists the wash gives you some leeway and 'quickly' gives you some depth.

 

Yea I've been considering that for a while, even bought some Gryphonne Sepia wash... just haven't started using it yet. I've been working on a few test models, frankly the Imperial Fists are to date my best paint jobs and I don't want to risk messing them up with mistakes caused by inexperience with the product, so I've been putting it off. But some badab on the metals and gryphone on the armor details perhaps with a Golden Yellow drybrush to bring the main armor plates back to a bit brighter of a color would probably work very well. One of these days I'll have to kick myself and give it a shot.

 

Yeah you could do with thinning down your paints and using boltgun for the weapons [they look too light to me] but just good to see a painted army. You can always go back and chuck them in some brake fluid if you really want to make them better at some point. Definitely seeing the models imrpove with each post though.

 

I always have to repeat myself on that it seems, I already do thin my paints about as much as is humanly practical before they become more like colored water than anything resembling paint. The pictures and lack of washes to bring out the detail seems to make them look flat but none of the detail is actually washed out by thick paint. People just seem to not look closely enough and blame it on that. I guess I really need to get around to using washes. ^_^

 

The same goes for the bolters, a badab wash would tone them down nicely, but again I'm not as familiar with washes as I'd like to be before attempting that.

Nice start to the Sons of Dorn, although I do have a few qualms/issues with the models, some of which echo what has already been posted above.

 

1. Prep your models fully. File off all the flash and mold lines (especially if you intend to use washes), and drill all the barrels.

 

2. Good clean basecoat, very lovely. I think some of the chunkiness is from the lightning, the low resolution of the camera, and the general un-evenness of the red (eyes and chest eagles). Try and do a darker color for the red first (like Scorched Brown), and then doing red on top to define the edges a little and "fake" that clean-ness. Painting cleanly on top is also pro-sauce.

 

3. Gryphonne Sepia wash will be too light. It's the sort of thing you do on bone or white, but not yellow. It would barely define the edges, and would give your armor a funky splotchy look. Devlan Mud might be a little too heavy though. I would recommend Snakebite Leather, with maybe a touch of Devlan Mud. Water down, mix with a bit of Future Floor Wax (or equivalent), and go at it!

 

http://www.spacewithinspace.net/images/warhammerimages/sicarius.jpg

 

What Snakebite Leather washes (must be controlled, I don't just slosh it on the model) looks like on Golden Yellow

 

4. In terms of metallics, it's actually really easy with the new washes. Just basecoat Boltgun Metal, and give a liberal wash/coat with Badab Black (don't bother being careful, just slap it onto the metallics). Nothing fancy, gives amazing results. If you've seen my Space Wolves, all my silver is that recipe (even on my characters). Simple and effective.

 

5. I use black bases all the time, and I recommend it because it's a generic "color" that matches every table and every color. Goblin Green is a classic color, yes, but it clashes with your yellow, and draws attention away from the model and to the base. The base should accent the model, it should not be the focus.

 

 

Hope that helps.

 

 

DV8

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