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Actual Scale Blood Raven Captain


Dam13n

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Firstly the pics:

 

http://i352.photobucket.com/albums/r358/MatthewDaunt/ActualScaleBloodRavenHoHFront.jpghttp://i352.photobucket.com/albums/r358/MatthewDaunt/ActualScaleBloodRavenHoHBack.jpg

http://i352.photobucket.com/albums/r358/MatthewDaunt/ActualScaleBloodRavenHoHLeft.jpghttp://i352.photobucket.com/albums/r358/MatthewDaunt/ActualScaleBloodRavenHoHRight.jpg

 

He is wearing Mk.3 Iron Armour with a slightly alternate torso.

Parts list:

- Dark Angel Terminator Legs (with sword detail and hip guards filed off and extensive green stuff reworking)

- Torso entirely green stuff

- Chaos Terminator Combi Flamer Arm (elbow resculped)

- Space Marine Captain Storm Bolter (with strap and hand removed)

- Dark Angel Terminator Power Sword (with cabling removed and elbow resculpted)

- Dark Angel Bare Head

- 1x Plain Terminator Shoulderpad (with green stuff detail and trim)

- 1x Black Templar Terminator Shoulder Pad (with all detailed filed off except skull and green stuff detail and trim)

- 1x Space Marine Jump Pack (with green stuff detail)

- 1x Winged skull detail piece (from captain sprue attached to left kneepad)

 

Base is just a terminator base with a single piece of slate and some green stuff ice with some sand and snow flock added

 

Painting Formula:

 

Red:

Pre-basecoat - Scorched Brown 2:1 Water (2 Coats)

Basecoat - Scab Red 2:1 Water (2 Coats)

1st Layer Highlight - Scab Red 3:1 Kommando Khaki (thinned as above)

2nd Layer Highlight - Scab Red 2:1 Kommando Khaki (")

3rd Layer Highlight - Scab Red 1:1 Kommando Khaki (")

1st Edge Highlight - Scab Red 2:3 Kommando Khaki (")

2nd Edge Highlight - Scab Red 1:2 Kommando Khaki (")

1st Glaze - Leviathan Purple 1:2 Water

2nd Glaze - Baal Red 2:1 Water (2 Coats)

1st Wash - Devlan Mud (into recesses)

2nd Wash - Badab Black (into deep recesses)

Blending Glaze - Blood Red 1:10 Water (do not allow to pool)

Edge and Battle Damage Highlight - Scab Red 1:2 Kommando Khaki

Battle Damage Shading - Dark Flesh 2:1 Chaos Black

 

Bone:

Basecoat - Calthan Brown 2:1 Water

1st Layer Highlight - Calthan Brown 4:1 Bleached Bone (thinned as above)

2nd Layer Highlight - Calthan Brown 3:1 Bleached Bone (")

3rd Layer Highlight - Calthan Brown 2:1 Bleached Bone (")

1st Edge Highlight - Calthan Brown 1:1 Bleached Bone (")

2nd Edge Highlight - Calthan Brown 1:2 Blechaed Bone (")

3rd Edge Highlight - Bleached Bone (")

Extreme/Dot Highlight - Skull White (")

1st Wash - Devlan Mud 1:2 Water (towards recesses)

2nd Wash - Devlan Mud 1:1 Water (into recesses)

Reapply Skull White Extreme/Dot Highlight

 

Black:

Reapplied Chaos Black

Basecoat Charadon Granite 2:1 Water

1st Layer Highlight - Charadon Granite 2:1 Codex Grey

2nd Layer Highlight - Charadon Granite 1:1 Codex Grey

1st Wash - Badab Black 1:1 Water

2nd Wash - Pure Badab Black into recesses

1st Edge Highlight - Codex Grey

2nd Edge Highlight - Codex Grey 1:1 Fortress Grey

Extreme Edge Highlight - Fortress Grey

 

For the Metal NMM I applied the above layers but teh highlights were broader

Finished with Extreme/Dot highlights of Skull White

 

Gold NMM:

 

Basecoat - Calthan Brown 2:1 Water

Layer Highlight - Snakebite Leather 2:1 Water

1st Wash - Devlan Mud

2nd Wash - Badab Black

Relayer - Snakebite Leather 2:1 Water

Layer Highlight - Bubonic Brown 2:1 Water

Edge Highlight - Bleached Bone 2:1 Water

Extreme/Dot Highlight - Skull White 2:1 Water

 

Lightning Blade:

Chaos Black Undercoat

Stipple - Regal Blue

Basic Lightning Aura - Enchanted Blue

1st Highlight - Ice Blue

2nd Highlight - Skull White

Wash - Asurmen Blue

Reapply Skull White Highlight

 

For the head I followed the painting faces tutorial from White Dwarf...

 

Base:

Basecoat - Space Wolves Grey 1:1 Kommando Khaki

Drybrush - Skull White (2 coats)

Wash - Asurmen Blue 1:5 Water

Drybrush - Skull White

Wash - Asurmen Blue 1:2 Water (into recesses)

Drybrush - Skull White

Wash - Asurmen Blue (just the ice - 2 coats)

1st Layer - Ice Blue (ice only)

2nd Layer - Space Wolves Grey (")

Edge Highlight - Skull White (")

Gloss Varnish (")

Rim - Shadow Grey

 

That's everything I can remember

WIP Topic

 

Comments and Criticisms welcome...

 

Dam13n

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Impressive work !

Out of personnal experience, I think it'll be much easyer to work with Milliput (the Yellow / grey one, the package with the red writing) for all the armour work, easyer to file and t work with sandpaper than GS. It would give you sharper edges (thinking about the shoulderpads especially).

Congrats for the tough job ! I would not have the patience ann even less the talent.

 

DS

Thanks all, especially the primoginator of actual scale... doffs metaphorical cap to doghouse... :lol:

Responses:

Dark Sensei - I have two boxes of the stuff, I find it too sticky and fiddly to manipulate so only use it very rarely if at all... but to each their own...

Twin .44 - Could it really lift a normal sized space marine?? that is the question... :(

Laterz all...

Dam13n

Did you try watering it a bit ? may sound like a weirdo's question but I know some GS practitionner that didn't even think that was possible when trying Y/G for the first time.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r226/Dark-Sensei/Sculpted%20stuff/ganteletdeathwatchwip005.jpg

From Allan C, hmmm have to think about mailing that one to see what's next 8)

Y/G makes smooth surfaces and sharp angles and that's a must for armour.

 

DS

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