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Iron Hands Razorback Orthos


CarbonCopy

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First things first...

 

I believe the winners in the competition are worthy entries, all of which deserved praise.

 

What I am disappointed about is that the images I sent were received at roughly half size from those sent (which were well within the contest rules limits). No bother, as the winners in the large model/vehicle category were solid entries and deserved a win. (Yes, I really mean this!!!) :)

 

Without further delay! Here are larger images of Razorback Orthos, hailing from the Iron Hands chapter...

 

http://www.myenothing.com/images/minis/40k/marines/IronHands/RazorbackOrthos/S4300001.jpg

 

http://www.myenothing.com/images/minis/40k/marines/IronHands/RazorbackOrthos/S4300002.jpg

 

http://www.myenothing.com/images/minis/40k/marines/IronHands/RazorbackOrthos/S4300003.jpg

 

http://www.myenothing.com/images/minis/40k/marines/IronHands/RazorbackOrthos/S4300005%20-%20corrected.jpg

 

http://www.myenothing.com/images/minis/40k/marines/IronHands/RazorbackOrthos/S4300006.jpg

 

Again, congrats to the winners - they really deserved it!

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awesome, simply awesome, makes me wanna do Iron Hands, and thats just a transport!

 

one technical question.... wouldn't the heavy bolter rounds hit the storm bolter sometimes?

 

REASON FOR EDIT : sorry, forgot these are toy soldiers, not real life.

Thanks for all the comments. They are greatly appreciated, especially considering this model was never intended as a competition piece.

 

Can you please briefly describe the painting process? What colors and what washes did you use and in what order.

 

I use the following methods for all my Iron Hands vehicles as of about a year ago (I have a couple Land Speeders that were painted differently, with a more basic method).

 

First, I make my own decals. I scanned the Iron Hands icon from the old WD Index Astartes article and traced in Illustrator.

 

Second, I use a lot of odd pants from a lot of different companies. The most used paints in my collection are from Delta Ceramcoat and Liquitex (the Medium Viscosity in 59ml squeeze bottles).

 

Also, I left the Rhino's top, the storm bolter and heavy bolter unglued. The top is glued last, before final touch up and sealing.

 

Since I can only print in black onto clear decal film on my laser printer, I prime the model white. Anywhere I am going to place a decal is lightly underpaint any base color effects I want to accomplish. In this case, I do basic blend gradients from white (upper edge) to a "Coastline Blue" from Delta Ceramcoat (roughly equal to 4/1 white/spacewolf gray). When that is dry, I coat those areas with gloss varnish (future acrylic floor polish) and let it cure over-night. Apply decals, microset decal set/sol. A brush-on goat of thinned matte glaze medium was applied, and the rest of the painting can be started the next day.

 

Coat the rest of the mode carefully by brush with thinned black in several coats. The entire interior was painting with thinned Liquitex "Rich Silver" (the pigment is pure stainless steel - yes, really). This takes several thin coats as it does not cover easily on the first couple of passes.

 

I then applied some stock GW "II" decals for the vehicle number designation from the Space Marine decal sheet. This was accomplished more or less the same way as before; brush-on gloss, dry, decal, dry, and matte medium to seal.

 

At this stage, all metals get a first-pass wash of thinned black paint. If using GW's black wash, don't use it straight from the pot - thin it slightly.

 

The decals are then detailed. It's very hard to see in the photos, but the larger Iron Hands icon on the door of the right side has had details "illustrated" in. I used the Iron Hands logo from the Index Astartes article as visual reference. This was done with the same colors as the decal underlay blends, above. The GW "II" decals were overpainted at this stage as well with a subtle blend, as described for the "underpainting" of my custom decals.

 

The next step was weathering. I thinned some Delta Ceramcoat Brown Iron Oxide to a wash consistency (Calthan brown or Dark Flesh thinned to a wash, or just use Devlan mud). This was applied first to the entire floor of the interior and any other metalic surfaces I thought was appropriate (the heavy bolter, storm bolter and hatches). It was then selectively painted along crevices and edges were rust was likely to collect. I allowed this to try, and then made a slightly thinner batch and selectively applied it vertically on the sides or the Razorback.

 

To punch up the highlights on the metallic surfaces by drybrushing the same "Rich Silver" (stainless steel) on the brown and black washed metallic surfaces. I then selectively drybrushed some edges of the metallic surfaces with Liquitex Iridescent Silver (Pigment: Titanium Coated Mica Flakes and Carbon Black).

 

Next, I paint all the lenses, windows and sensors. From a black undercoat, I layer thinned Liquitex Alizarine Crimson (a burgundy-red, scab red is closest) in a pretty standard "gem" technique. Basically, lower-right of the surface gets punched up to a bright burgundy-red. Add a little Liquitex Unbleached Titanium (GW Bleached Bone) to brighten it up almost to a soft pink for the brightest highlights. I then use straight Unbleached Titanium for the hot highlight.

 

The next stage was to selectively drybrush the edges of the black, starting with 721 Denim Blue from the Folk Art craft paint range (I'd use Fenris Gray as a reasonable substitute, possibly mixed with a slight amount of black). Then I lightened up the color with a little Liquitex "French Gray" (roughly equal to Space Wolf Gray), and then with Delta Ceramcoat Coastline Gray (you could just add a small amount of white instead) for the brightest edge.

 

After all that light edge drybrushing, I decided a few odd corners needed a bit of extra attention, and added some water to the drybrush mix. I then carefully applied the lightest of the mix to a few details that just didn't seem to "kick" as much as I wanted. The consistency was that of a wash, but I applied it like some would for layering -- but only on the very edges of some panels/details. The main target was the hatch and hinges on top of the Razorback.

 

I then painted the stowage bags and the resin bed-role (bits box discoveries from my high-school military modeling years).

Colors: Brown Iron Oxide, wash w/ black. Blend back in the brown iron oxide, adding unbleached titanium for final highlights.

 

The Helmet was painted very carefully as a blending experiment - It pretty much looks exactly in real life as it does in the last photo. The "eyes" were painted using the same colors and techniques as the "lenses" and glass on the rest of the model.

 

Before I glues the top on, I panted the big cog on the driver's access door. This was actually an overpaint of a large cog decal I cut to fit into the space. I used basically the same color for under/over painting decals mentioned above. I also blended some black in between the teeth of the "cog" to give it more depth.

 

The top was glued into place, and left to cure over-night. The next day I touched up any edges where raw plastic was exposed due to scraping contact edges for a proper bond.

 

I the sealed the model with a couple reasonable light coats of Krylon Matte and left it to dry over-night. The next day I hit it with a couple light dustings of Krylon Flat, and left it to dry over-night again. After, I hit all the lenses with brushed on Future to gloss them up.

 

awesome, simply awesome, makes me wanna do Iron Hands, and thats just a transport!

 

one technical question.... wouldn't the heavy bolter rounds hit the storm bolter sometimes?

 

REASON FOR EDIT : sorry, forgot these are toy soldiers, not real life.

 

Hahahaha!

 

Yes, I think it would. Maybe it has some kind of "field of fire" limiter?

 

"Stand here!"

 

"Why?"

 

"So the Heavy Bolter won't kill you..."

 

"Won't the Storm Bolter hit me anyway?"

 

"So? You are wearing power armour!"

 

Anyway, I hope this helps.

 

CC

Thank you! It is very detailed description. Would it be possible to see the rest of your army? I tried to start IH several times now, but each time I do not like how my black comes out (in fact this is the only color I can’t master). Also, can you post a closer shot of the door with custom decal?
  • 4 weeks later...

As requested, some detail photos.

http://www.myenothing.com/images/minis/40k/marines/IronHands/RazorbackOrthos/S4300009.JPG

http://www.myenothing.com/images/minis/40k/marines/IronHands/RazorbackOrthos/S4300010.JPG

http://www.myenothing.com/images/minis/40k/marines/IronHands/RazorbackOrthos/S4300013.JPG

 

 

Theone photo I really, really tried to get to come out was the chapter icon. For whatever reason, it is just not showing up very well (the whites keep getting blown way out when I take the photo). Here is one of the same size icon, painted in the same way as the Razorback, taken from my one complete drop pod. Keep in mind that there are FIVE icons on the drop pod, all painted the same way (and all look very close to each other in quality/detail). This one was the most "messy" so I decided to single it out.

 

http://www.myenothing.com/images/minis/40k/marines/IronHands/DropPod/S4300047.JPG

 

More photos of the drop pod (heavy airbrush work).

 

Here's another Iron hands painted hand icon decal on the Librarian.

 

http://www.myenothing.com/images/minis/40k/marines/IronHands/Librarian/S4300030.JPG

 

Comments welcome.

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