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LakotaWolf

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Not too bad a start.

 

I would go around the edges of the bases again to clean up the obvious brush strokes. I would go with shadow grey along the edge of the base, but others may disagree.

 

As for the models themselves, I would give all of the armor and weapons a nice coat of Badab Black and all of the Red, flesh, and fur areas a nice coat or two of Delvan Mud.

 

These Wash paints will do wonders for a model.

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Just right of the bat, it'd be cool to see some basing beyond the standard snowfall. Admittedly, basing is kind of boring to do, but the results are frequently worth it. That said, I myself often just use relatively plain bases. Still, when I do choose to put in the extra effort, I usually like the results.

 

I'll leave it to better painters than myself to offer further tips. What you have here isn't by any stretch a bad start, though, so don't get too frustrated or down on yourself.

 

-Stormshrug

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Well as for hard feed back I say that it seems in areas that it may be thick but also you should try to have more shades of blue in the armor since it seems somewhat bland and monotone and some highlights would be good. As for the eyes I'm sure you'll get the hang of it sooner or later, its hard to get those right. anyways keep up the good work, wolves seem pretty good.
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if its hard feedback you want mate, all i would say is for you t use some drybrushing techniques. thats the hardest i could give you.

 

quite honestly theres nothing wrong with your painting, you just need some highlights and shadows. take a look at my gallery to see what i mean.

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What does this turkeys army look like? Anything past primed?

I ask cuz the best player I ever fought had Nids. Not even primed ones. And yet we were supposed to rate his modeling and painting skills....

He was a darn good opponent however and won the tournament.

SO WHO CARES WHAT HIS PAINTJOB LOOKED LIKE!

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Eh... the eyes are off on your Ragnar, and the whole lot of infantry models could use a light wash to bring out the details a bit.

 

Otherwise theyre not bad. They lack a little on the details, you might try using a smaller brush with a finer point if your going to do them, but certainly no worse than mine were 8 years ago.

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Just a few Basic things I have learned over the past 30 years of painting. Take them for what they are worth, if they work for you great, if not don't use them. These work for me. The Number one rule I did learn over all my years in hobbies is this. Find what works for you, and ingore the rest! That said what works for me is...

 

1) Get a "Fine" Primer and make sure when you first prime the model you prime it with a LIGHT coat. You do not want to pour paint over the detail. As I can't see how you started I start here as it is the mosts basic mistake that can lead to bad results.

2) Carefully basecoat the models colors with the new "Foundation" paints. Besure to water these down about 2 paint / 1 water and put them on in thin light coats. Make sure to cover the suface fully but make the paint smooth.

3) Get a correct Wash, for your colors you have a few options. If you go dark, with a Black you will get a more "Dirty" looking feel to the army. If you use a Blue you might get a nice result, or it might eb to much, depending on what you like. You could also use Purple (Try it on one but only in the joints and "Shadows")

4) After the wash is dry, you need to dry brush on some color along the edges, this will be based on what wash you use.

5) Look the model over and add any detail work to it, and touch up.

 

 

Follow that basic battle plan, make sure to always add water to you paint so that you are NEVER adding Pure paint to the mini, and carry on...

 

Good Luck...

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Dude, you're a clean painter - kudos on that. Wash your browns, bone, and flesh tones with Devlan mud and ogryn flesh, definitely.

 

This is what I do, and no one else likes it, but from arms length it looks quite good, and even up close it's good, it just doesn't meet the professional standards demanded by the Internets. Buy future floor wax, mix it with some water, then (for space wolves), put some black and blue, and a little, little, tiny bit of red or brown. Darken it to taste, but when you get it dark enough trust me it's not, add some more. Then hold your breath, pray to the allfather, dip your cleanly painted mini in, hold it under for a little while, then shake the excess off and let it dry. This "inks" the model, coloring in all the crevaces and such in the model, darkens the paint a little, and does some basic shading. Feel free to hate on me, internets, but it looks tabletop good and is pretty quick. Applying it as a dip rather than a wash, when done properly, gives a more consistent covering than as a wash. Let the model sit for a minute or so and see where the excess settles, and brush it off if too much settles in one spot or it settles where you don't want it, like the face or on a purity seal. This also puts a protective acrylic coating. The glossy sheen looks cool on a fully armored model, but hit it with a matte varnish and it goes away.

 

If you're using a snow flock you want to do that afterwards. You do want to work on your base a little, use that to add some color, or at the least add some rocks (aka kitty litter and small railroad ballast) to break up the flat look.

 

I'm a fairly new player, if you are too and want some rookie tips to basing and painting, rather than pro tips, pm me. In the mean time, your models look good, don't stress.

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i am buying those 50 cent acrylic paints they sell at walmart.......i know i am a decent painter........i dont think an expensive paint is any better or worse than a cheap paint....its how you use it....what made me mad was being aggravated by someone saying that my paint is garbage and i should buy some real paint......as far as some of the other paints out there i feel by using this i get more colors and. though i dont have washes i use alot of drybrushing........i may have been wrong about one theory i had......i dont like shadowing.....too often people use a very dark color and it makes it look overdone.....so i felt that you shouldnt shadow........you need to use a color a shade off
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You're painting is fine, however the models are lacking in some areas. First they do not have any variety of colors, the solid bright blue on the lighter blue is a little off putting and the colors are all very flat. Add to that that there are few details picked out and little contrast colors and the end result isn't that great. You're brush control looks good and that's the hardest thing, the rest shouldn't be too difficult to pick up.

 

First I'd suggest you widen your selection of paints. Make sure to color everything, the Claws on Canis look like they don't have anything but primer, you should always go over the primer coat again with chaos black if that's you're chosen color and even in general a coat of chaos black thinned down helps even out any differences in shade with the primer coat. You also shouldn't leave any black exposed from the primer coat.

 

Add some more metalics in there and I'd suggest using another color than the bright Ultramarines blue for contrast. Layer you're colors, start with a base coat of a darker shade than the armor color you want, then a coat of the final shade, then drybrush a lightened shade over the armor to give it depth. If you want to use washes I'd apply a wash before the drybrush to really bring out the details and recesses in the armor.

 

GW has a thing called the "Academy" where they teach you to use drybrushing and washes, if there's a GW nearby that offers that I highly suggest the program.

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i am buying those 50 cent acrylic paints they sell at walmart.......i know i am a decent painter........i dont think an expensive paint is any better or worse than a cheap paint....its how you use it....what made me mad was being aggravated by someone saying that my paint is garbage and i should buy some real paint......as far as some of the other paints out there i feel by using this i get more colors and. though i dont have washes i use alot of drybrushing........i may have been wrong about one theory i had......i dont like shadowing.....too often people use a very dark color and it makes it look overdone.....so i felt that you shouldnt shadow........you need to use a color a shade off

 

You did ask for criticism, right?....

 

You can't use any paint. Sorry. -_-

GW and other paint ranges for circa 28mm scale grind up the pigment so that it is at the scale for the miniatures. If the pigment is too big, it's like painting the interior of your home with sand in your paint.

Add water to your brush. Ideally use a wet palette.

You can't tell me a Surgeon can perform brain surgery with a steak knife as well as he could with a scalpel.

 

I know I've used hyperbole twice, but are you catching my drift?

 

Make sure you have good lighting ~ both sunlight and from incandescent bulbs.

I wear $16 3x magnifying glasses from the Chemist ~ it really helps me see where I am putting the brush :D

 

Make sure you have a 'fine detail brush' or equivalent 000. I have even finer brushes, another couple of increments smaller. 20/0 is my smallest - it is a bit ridiculous and not essential, but I couldn't find out until I had it. :)

Having different sized small brushes will help with edge highlighting. A smaller brush for each progressive layer helps get it in the right spot. Maybe not as essential for SW as it is BT, but still a good technique.

 

*Now this is definitely a personal preference (thought I would consider my other information to be less subjective)

I don't like dry brushing. It looks decent on chainmail, and perhaps fur, but other than that, it just doesn't do the miniatures justice, IMO.

 

If you google 'Cool Mini or Not' you will get the low down from amazing painters. What I have told you is just the beginning of what you can do.

 

I hope I have not come across as a jerk, but if you want, say, Eavy Metal quality painting (if not today, then perhaps one day) then you really need the right gear and use the techniques that the 'pros' use.

 

Whoever said 'a bad tradesman blames his tools', maybe hasn't been asked to do a good job with shabby tools?

 

I hope I am helping you. :)

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i use the cheap paint from wm too and i water it down and do lots of layers. it gets rid of the flat look. u can try that for what its worth. http://www.how-to-paint-miniatures.com/min...ng_welcome.html is a good website for learning advanced techniques. your off too a good start.
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saphius they cant all be good looking........seriously eyes are tough

 

i have gotten some great responses so far and alot of positive on my skills........one complete disapreal on use of cheap paints.........i have to admit i was about to buckle on that when i got a few responses from people saying they use them well and they think that its more important to have the skills......below is a figure ive been touching up with some blue shadows around the knee and foot

 

 

http://www.angelfire.com/nc3/blackgold/new.jpg

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i wont ever be 'eavy metal level.........i am not a good freehand painter nor am i a good sculpter to fabricate things

 

i do need to learn to paint everything on the figure................i let some detail go.....bad....but i can still see the detail and the paint aint mudding it up because its too thick

 

spacewolf13c suggested a website........that person goes on to say that they use the apple barrel paints.........thats what ive been using

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Ok, the three GW products I will absolutely, wholeheartedly recommend: Devlan Mud, Ogryn Flesh and Badab Black.

 

Highlight the very tops of that bone with white, and wash it with devlan mud = win+

 

Then, you know...dip the rest of the model.

 

Also, you should try some sort of blending on the power weapon. The fella that lives here that is the best painter locally does it with the "cheap" acrylic paints, but he thins them with something, and puts a..."retardant"? in the paint, so it stays wet longer and he can blend it. I don't know how it would work with just the paints though. I know I can use red-orange-yellow GW paints to get a cool effect, b/c they're so thin they take multiple coats anyway, but I dont know about with those paints, they may take a little more effort. Its well worth it though.

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Honest-by using washes, highlighting and mixing paints (and using water) you can bring these guys from average up to a fantastic standard.

 

I have bought miniatures off ebay with paintjobs like this (NOT BAD-hey you got the colours right) and by applying the methods mentioned above your models can look the part-Ive often thought about sending the guy I bought them off before and after pictures.

 

Eavy Metal masterclasses are very worthwhile IMO- hell I cant paint THAT good but I garauntee you will pick up a few handy tips from every article,especially in regards to faces/flesh.

 

Cover Ragnar in badab black and see what happens-take it from there :)

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i dry brush mithril silver over my armour to show wear and tear and then ink wash away looks great and its quick

 

as to blades id paint them chainmail then mithril along the edge once you have ink washed then it looks very effective

i also found useing graveyard earth to paint my base's saves a lot of work as it becomes mud if it gets on the boots/legs and save a lot of time with touch ups

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you need to work on your characters eyes, until you get comfortable with a brush or find a really fine brush to dot the eyes... I suggest using http://www.staedtler.com/pigment_liner_gb.Staedtler I've used the 0,1mm pens to do detailed woad/tattoos and the eyes on my models :D
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