Revitalising my BA

[DokSnyder]

Ahhh, the pictures disappeared.

Could you reup them somewhere please? That would be awesome since I'm not yet done stealing your ideas. :devil:

-Dok

[ancient god]

All pictures are up and running again, sorry for the inconvenience. :lol:

 

 

So, update! Painted a Vindicator this Saturday. One session, about ten hours I reckon.

 

I used the tank commander that I converted 5 years ago. Now he finally has a tank to command! :) Disassembled him and updated the paintjob here and there before I put him on.

 

Anyway, here it is. Sorry for the wonky pictures:

 

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y254/ancientgod/Blood%20Angels/6c5d7904.jpg

 

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y254/ancientgod/Blood%20Angels/004538d5.jpg

 

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y254/ancientgod/Blood%20Angels/69b1c4c7.jpg

 

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y254/ancientgod/Blood%20Angels/70dd68f9.jpg

 

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y254/ancientgod/Blood%20Angels/9f2691f0.jpg

 

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y254/ancientgod/Blood%20Angels/89e94d66.jpg

 

The drop pod and Landraiders are still in the works, wanted to have some fun in the weekend, that's why I rushed right through the Vindicator. And I still have to get a larger drill and drill out all those axhaust pipes.

 

Thanks for looking! Love to hear what you all think. :)

[igotsmeakabob!!]

Ok, question time!

I'm assuming that the marine popping out of the top isn't standard plastics.

What'd you do to make him and, in particular, his incredibly sexy hair?

[Brother Jim]

Wow! That is one beautiful looking Vindicator... :)

[glider0880]

Bloody Hell, nice hair!

Please tell us how!

I have always wanted hair like that for my commander!

[punkfish]

Gorgeous Vindicator. Shame about the rush job eh ;)

 

The tank commander really sets it off nicely - I like the way you do the skin tones and the scuplted hair is top notch.

 

Quick Q if you don't mind, Do you use the Sponge method for the battledamage/weathering? If so, how do you get it to look so 'controlled'

[Chaplain Desmodus]

I saved the WIP picture of that guy once. Really good conversion. Plastics with GS hair and purity seals.

 

Seriously, ancient god, I thought your BA were perfect before, but your new style and standard is fantastic. Very inspirational, too. The vindicator looks great. Weathering is very cool. I especially like the horizontal scratches on the dozer blade's sides. ;)

[SnorriSnorrison]

Wow, really awesome tank. The tank commander fits perfectly as well!

Did you use GS for the hair? And, if I may ask, what did you use for the shoulderpad with the golden decoration?

 

Oh, and your Sanguinary Priest is top-notch as well. Or, lets say, all of your stuff is. :)

 

Snorri

[Demoulius]

@ancient god: i renmeber that gunner model! dident you also make a DIY Dante a while back? :) and if so do you got any plans to redo him as well?

 

great looking vindi m8, you made a pure red looking vehicle look totally awesome, something i never thought possible ;)

[ancient god]

Thanks guys, I'm glad you like it!

 

The hair is indeed simply sculpted on with green stuff, as are the purity seals on the commander's shoulder. The head is from the Captain boxed set if I remember correctly. Been five years so I'm not too sure now.

 

Glider, just roll lots of small spaghettis out of GS and sculpt them onto the head. At least that's how I did it back then. I'd possibly sculpt a basic shape onto the head now and carve out individual strands afterwards.

 

punkfish, the rushing through was more in regard of the fact that I sat down and practically didn't get up again before it was done. :D Other than that, I took it to my LGS today to place it in the cabinet and found out the Vindicator turned out much smoother than the Baal, in pretty much every respect.

I use blister foam to apply the chipping. Most of the paint goes directly into the kitchen paper, much like when you dry brush. The remainder goes onto the model, haven't had any problems with it so far. Maybe try using less paint and see if that works. It's easier to reapply than to take away excess paint.

 

Desmodus, thank you very much. I really appreciate you liking my BA. I'm sure I've said it before but I'm one of those many, many BA players who've always looked up to your FE and hoped to one day achieve such a finish on an army. You're the man. :)

 

SnorriSnorrison, the shoulder pad is from the command squad boxed set, I shaved of the Inquisition =I= and added the seals.

 

Demoulius, see, that's why OMG has me down as part of the old guard. ;) Now you remember me too, yay! :P

 

 

TrentL (PM), here's how I do the reds and the weathering on my tanks, start to finish:

 

-Spray model Chaos Black (Provides a subtle pre-shading for the next step and makes the red stay on better.)

-Spray model Fanatic Army Painter Pure Red (Our basic red tone, the majority of this step will stay visible throughout. Let this dry thoroughly before you proceed.)

-Drybrush model with VMC Brown Rose (Make sure this doesn't turn out streaky. This is the only highlight the red will get. The colour is comparable with Tallarn Flesh.)

-Apply any decals and freehand markings (Apply gloss varnish, let dry. Then the decals, then paint over matte varnish. You can apply some decal softener onto the decals before you go on with the matte varnish if you want a really seamless result.)

-Use torn blister foam to apply chipping (I used VMC German Camo Black Brown, any dark grey or brown will do. Apply sparingly and make sure not to make the chipping to regular.)

-Use the same torn foam piece and carefully drag it along the sides and lower parts of the hull (Practice on the belly of the tank where it won't show. This is supposed to look like the tank drove through debris or similar that scratched up the sides here and there.)

-Use fine brush to apply thin, random scratches along some of the more exposed surfaces like doors and hatches.

-Shade the model using a thinned-down mix of Black and VMC GK Black Brown. (If you get the mix right, you can do this in one go. I didn't reapply any shading on the Vindicator, just one layer. You can use oils as I did on the Baal and the LRs but the result is a bit splotchier.)

-Use a fine brush to apply Chainmail chipping onto some of the larger chipped areas. (See the last Vindicator detail pic for examples.)

 

That's it basically. You can add scorch marks using browns and blacks by rubbing them on with a small drybrush or apply some smoother shading to larger surfaces (see my Dreads' shoulders or the Vindicator's siege shield) using the same mix you used for shading, applied in several thin washes. Make sure the paint doesn't leave marks when it dries. You can do that by cleaning up any edges that would dry up ugly with a clean, moist brush after applying the wash layer.

I added a layer or two of rubbed-on shading on the shield. Prepare your small drybrush as usual and rub the dark paint into the recess. Make sure you have next to no paint left in the brush before you do this as the last thing you want is an uneven finish.

 

OK, beware the wall of text. Hope it gives you an insight into my work process! Feel free to ask if you lack any info, I'm glad to help.

 

Back to the painting table then... :lol:

[SamaNagol]

Seriously, everyone who aspires to paint models for practical tabletop use should use this thread as their religious text.

[TrentL]

Thanks a ton!!

[Exterminatus Machine]

Tell me how you did the blood talons on the dread...I gots to get me a talon furioso.

 

Looks boss too.

[Midnightmare]

That is awesome! Love how you do the weathering. And you paint so quick you swine!!!!

[ancient god]

SamaNagol, you make me blush! :P :tu:

 

Exterminatus Machine, I'm not entirely sure what you mean, the painting or the model? Painting is exactly as described in my last post, and the claws are the regular metal Furioso pieces.

 

Midnight Runner, I'll take that as a compliment, haha. :P

[Inquisitor Claissen]

Absolutly stunning models, in my opinion a perfect guide for any BA player. One question, after reading the topic, I saw a detailed guide to paint (and chipping) tanks, but not for the regular guys, can I assume that the system is the same?

 

congrats for your (awesome) work!

[DokSnyder]

The Vindy is just as awesome as all your other models.

Top Arbeit wieder. :D

[Son of Rawl]

-Spray model Chaos Black (Provides a subtle pre-shading for the next step and makes the red stay on better.)

-Spray model Fanatic Army Painter Pure Red (Our basic red tone, the majority of this step will stay visible throughout. Let this dry thoroughly before you proceed.)

-Drybrush model with VMC Brown Rose (Make sure this doesn't turn out streaky. This is the only highlight the red will get. The colour is comparable with Tallarn Flesh.)

-Apply any decals and freehand markings (Apply gloss varnish, let dry. Then the decals, then paint over matte varnish. You can apply some decal softener onto the decals before you go on with the matte varnish if you want a really seamless result.)

-Use torn blister foam to apply chipping (I used VMC German Camo Black Brown, any dark grey or brown will do. Apply sparingly and make sure not to make the chipping to regular.)

-Use the same torn foam piece and carefully drag it along the sides and lower parts of the hull (Practice on the belly of the tank where it won't show. This is supposed to look like the tank drove through debris or similar that scratched up the sides here and there.)

-Use fine brush to apply thin, random scratches along some of the more exposed surfaces like doors and hatches.

-Shade the model using a thinned-down mix of Black and VMC GK Black Brown. (If you get the mix right, you can do this in one go. I didn't reapply any shading on the Vindicator, just one layer. You can use oils as I did on the Baal and the LRs but the result is a bit splotchier.)

-Use a fine brush to apply Chainmail chipping onto some of the larger chipped areas. (See the last Vindicator detail pic for examples.)

 

I may have to shamelessly borrow that method lol keep up the awesome work mate.

[ancient god]

Claissen, I'm not weathering my infantry at all any more. I used to, as you can see on my old tac squad in the original post, but I've since found that I like my BA better when they're clean. I'm not generally against weathering infantry, in fact I love it. But with these guys, I felt a clean approach would suit me better.

 

Thanks Dok. :D (Wusste gar nicht, dass du deutsch bist/sprichst.)

[Inquisitor Claissen]

Claissen, I'm not weathering my infantry at all any more. I used to, as you can see on my old tac squad in the original post, but I've since found that I like my BA better when they're clean. I'm not generally against weathering infantry, in fact I love it. But with these guys, I felt a clean approach would suit me better.

 

Thanks Dok. :) (Wusste gar nicht, dass du deutsch bist/sprichst.)

 

Oh sorry, my fault. I mean the technique for litght/shade the red armor. I'm on your side, the prefer the infantry clean (I own 3 marines armies and I've got just one squad with armor damage).

[ancient god]

Ah, right. No worries. Here's how I paint reds on infantry:

 

-Prime Fanatic Army Painter Pure Red

-Shade using thinned-down VMC Black Red

-Clean up base red using Blood Red (Basically the same colour, no visible difference after varnish. In this step I also clean up the spots the primer didn't reach properly.)

-Highlight using Blood Red mixed with VMC Brown Rose, 1-2 layers depending on the model. (Single highlight for troops, two for veterans and notables, as many as it takes for characters.)

 

That's the red done. I usually start painting the model by shading the red and cleaning it up a bit. After that, I block in all black areas, especially the armour joints. I do the highlights whenever I see fit after that stage, the only important thing is to have the joints painted before that so as not to spoil the highlights.

 

So, pretty simple really. :)

[Inquisitor Claissen]

mmmm, sounds really fast method. I use Scab red with a spot of chaos black for shading, almost the same as VMC Black Red. My problem is in the primer. I use to prime 10-15 models at a time, attached to a sheet of rigid plastic. I notice that some models get a rough cover, when I prime individually this problem is not present.

[ancient god]

That might be related to the spray can not holding the right distance to the models throughout the spraying. Happens easily when you just hold down the ..button(??) and sweep the can, but I don't know how you prime. I usually set my models up in one or two straight rows and take care to keep the distance constant.

 

Once in a while you get a bad can though, not much you can do with that unfortunately...

[Inquisitor Claissen]

No, not the can. The veterans was primed one by one and the finish is perfect. Maybe the temperature could affect too, it was cold and windy out there!

 

thanks !

[SincaiN]

Very nice man .. the weathering effects on the Dozer are top notch, it looks like aged metal ;) Very impressive Vindi !