A few questions from a girl gamer

[RunningWolfFenris]

this is madness! a new pup arrives, shows some cleavage and you all forget our traditions!24 replies and none of you offers the pup even a sip of ale!

*trows spjaco to the bar*

"fetch the new pup some ale will you, pup?"

*and now sits back and watches the brawl evolve*

 

Ah my bad, as a pup myself I'm unfamiliar with the need to fight whenever someone new shows up.

[Quillen]

Why did you say your a girl gamer?

 

My wife does not say "girl gamer." My old Girlfriends do not say this. So why you?

[Lord Ragnarok]

Answer the questions of the thread and do not focus on gender. This is not a request.

[Requiem of the Wolf]

this is madness! a new pup arrives, shows some cleavage and you all forget our traditions!24 replies and none of you offers the pup even a sip of ale!

*trows spjaco to the bar*

"fetch the new pup some ale will you, pup?"

*and now sits back and watches the brawl evolve*

I think your Beard got in the way of your sight there Longtooth,I allready rolled the new pup a keg. Never let it be said that a Skald does not know how to welcome a newcomer after all *grins*

[Grimtooth]

Hey guys, I already introduced myself here so I'll get right to it :ph34r:

 

Few questions that I'm struggling with:

 

• Wolf Lord: What situations is it best to use him over a Rune or Wolf Priest?
  
• Tank shock: After declaring and moving through an enemy unit, can you pivot the tank after so that it's best armour is facing enemy heavy weapons?
  
• Painting: Will a black basecoat work to acheive the paint scheme pictured below? Or something more Grey?
  

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/3694/img4b7da1236bee2.jpg

 

 

Sorry about the pic size I'm not sure how to auto-size on this forum yet :huh:

 

Any help greatly appreciated ;)

 

I use a Wolf Lord down to 1750pts with a Rune Priest as 2nd HQ. That is for my own fluff reasons though and I could just as easily toss a Wolf Guard Battle Leader in that role as well. I have a thing about putting a true alpha male to lead Space Wolves.

 

No pivot after tank shot.

 

I have gotten similar to that paint job with black base coat and adeptus battlegrey.

 

Welcome to the Space Wolves forum.

[hendrik]

this is madness! a new pup arrives, shows some cleavage and you all forget our traditions!24 replies and none of you offers the pup even a sip of ale!

*trows spjaco to the bar*

"fetch the new pup some ale will you, pup?"

*and now sits back and watches the brawl evolve*

I think your Beard got in the way of your sight there Longtooth,I allready rolled the new pup a keg. Never let it be said that a Skald does not know how to welcome a newcomer after all *grins*

ha pup! you almost had me there! you offered mead!(and that's why i missed it! ):rolleyes:

about all this gender thing going on, a pup's a pup and they have to learn the ways of the wolf.

forgive us lord rags for not keeping the bloodclaws in check and have a toast with me! :)

[Requiem of the Wolf]

ha pup! you almost had me there! you offered mead!(and that's why i missed it! ):rolleyes:

about all this gender thing going on, a pup's a pup and they have to learn the ways of the wolf.

forgive us lord rags for not keeping the bloodclaws in check and have a toast with me! :)

I have allways favored Mead over Ale,far more soothing to a throat parched from telling tales. Besides the new pup will likely end up answering enough questions and howls that it would help more anyways.

[Karack Blackstone]

Let's try this right...

 

*Hands Innocentz a full mug of ale.*

 

"Welcome to the Fang. By the way, I hope you're good at fighting, it's a tradition we keep around here. Newcomers are always a chance for a good thrashing of all of us."

 

And nice model, Hope to learn to paint like that myself some day, and good luck in aspiring to that level. I hope you make it too.

[Alba]

I think this is best described in the immortal words of a Wolf would be, Lord Flashheart:

 

Can't be described by a word, but it can by a noise... and that noise is WOOF!

 

Let the ale flow!

[Wispy]

Wait a minute....

How long you been painting models like that?

I mean....

WOW!!!! Great job. Seriously good eye to detail and the way you made the brass pop is amazing.

 

No no no that was in my bf's picture folder I have no idea who painted it otherwise I'd ask them directly!

It's from here: http://lemmingart.over-blog.de/

 

If you look around, I'm sure you'll have no doubt find Lemming's contact information to ask him how he did it..

 

One problem: Lemming is German and may not speak English. Oops.

[Innocentz]

Let's try this right...

 

*Hands Innocentz a full mug of ale.*

 

"Welcome to the Fang. By the way, I hope you're good at fighting, it's a tradition we keep around here. Newcomers are always a chance for a good thrashing of all of us."

 

And nice model, Hope to learn to paint like that myself some day, and good luck in aspiring to that level. I hope you make it too.

 

*grabs my beers with a huge grin and starts to chug*

http://images.sodahead.com/polls/000233978/polls_IMG_04315528_4707_793060_answer_1_xlarge.jpeg

(Not me put how I would try to drink a big mug of ale!)

 

It's from here: http://lemmingart.over-blog.de/

 

If you look around, I'm sure you'll have no doubt find Lemming's contact information to ask him how he did it..

 

One problem: Lemming is German and may not speak English. Oops.

 

Thank you thank you thank you!

 

I'm going to get in touch with him but for now I can see he used Chaos Black spray to undercoat so that gets me in the right direction! =)

[wiplash]

Painting: Will a black basecoat work to acheive the paint scheme pictured below? Or something more Grey?

 

Yes. The armor looks like it's a mix of Adeptus Battlegrey and Codex Grey, with further highlights of Codex Grey. The red is Red Gore or Dark Flesh blended up with a bit of Blood Red and it looks like a hint of Elf Flesh. The bone can be achieved with Khemri Brown, working your way up through Bleached Bone and up to Skull White (although for the iconography it looks like Bleached Bone was the base). Silver is Boltgun Metal highlighted with Mithril and you can wash it with Badab Black. The gold looks like Shining Gold, mixed with Mithril for a highlight, and then a Devlan Mud wash.

 

Looking forward to see what you paint up.

 

 

DV8

 

i find white basecoats are easier to work with you dont need as many layers to get rid of the base colour

and as a newcomer to painting - when i can be bothered - white basecoat makes it easy to paint on light colours, especially yellow which you may be considering in your armies paint scheme

 

may not be trouble for the greys, but if you are looking to include yellow in the scheme the white for sure

[krewl]

About your HQ, no matter the list you'll find a rune priest is always welcome in your list.

Unless you play very small games (Below 1000) which I think you said you and the BF are starting with.

 

But once you reach 1500 and up I'd always include one.

 

They block psy powers on a 4+ (*within 24") which is better then a psychic hood.

You will need that against eldar, tyranids, some IG builds, blood angels and even in practice battles against your fellow wolves.

Against other races with no psychers or less psy power you'll be frree to use the powers a lot as well, which makes them only better.

 

Remember that wolf lords are for bashing brains in, psychers are for casting (= shooting) and stopping enemy powers from going off.

Wolf lords are just about the toughest HQ's you can buils, while rune priests are just meah in CC. Each has it's place, learn to use them where they fit. Wolf lord guarding long fangs would be wasted, while a living lightning rune preist would fit right in.

 

As you are a girl you get enough comments anyway, but I just wanted to add this to what has already been said (Not going to repeat the rest offcourse)

[Emperor's Scourge]

I use a scheme very similar to the one pictured and I've experimented with both black and white primer. I find that white takes fewer coats to work up an acceptable base of grey. Black demands thinner layers of grey worked up. Of course, the grey comes out lighter with white, but in the end you can get them very close to each other. So its not really a huge difference. I've also tried a grey primer, but I found that I need to do more work to define the depth of the model when I start at grey.

 

Personal preference after testing: Meh, I've been priming with white lately because the end result comes out looking less thick. I still don't have a handle on thinning paints well. Of course, with white you do risk the chalking effect that so many white primers create. Submerging the can in warm water and releasing a bit of the pressure by spraying a bit upside down before applying to the model helps.

 

As for the Wolf Lord: I usually run Rune Priests, but my Wolf Lord on Thunderwolf Mount is fun to use...if a bit of a fire magnet. People tend to be more impressed when they see it on the table.

[Ryzouken]

You can probably achieve the colors shown with a black basecoat, but it'll take some work. Just remember, thin coats. That and highlights should give a crisp look to them.

 

As far as unit selection goes, Rune Priests are my unit of preference. Their abilities and impact are table wide and terrible (for your opponent!). RP's are capable of leveling entire units of infantry or multiple monstrous creatures in a single shooting phase, or can protect your troopers from even the most powerful and cunning of strategies. Wolf Lords? They hit things in the face. Just like almost every other model in your army. They do it a bit better, but still, that's all they do.

 

Also, Land Raiders. Cannot recommend enough the Land Raiders. Two standard patterns and a Crusader/Redeemer (I favor the latter). You'll not use all of them, likely, but for the occasional 2k point game, you'll want them.

 

 

As to the rest of this lot... */facepalm* I need more ale. Lots more ale.

[Requiem of the Wolf]

You can probably achieve the colors shown with a black basecoat, but it'll take some work. Just remember, thin coats. That and highlights should give a crisp look to them.

 

As far as unit selection goes, Rune Priests are my unit of preference. Their abilities and impact are table wide and terrible (for your opponent!). RP's are capable of leveling entire units of infantry or multiple monstrous creatures in a single shooting phase, or can protect your troopers from even the most powerful and cunning of strategies. Wolf Lords? They hit things in the face. Just like almost every other model in your army. They do it a bit better, but still, that's all they do.

 

Also, Land Raiders. Cannot recommend enough the Land Raiders. Two standard patterns and a Crusader/Redeemer (I favor the latter). You'll not use all of them, likely, but for the occasional 2k point game, you'll want them.

 

 

As to the rest of this lot... */facepalm* I need more ale. Lots more ale.

*passes Ryzouken two steins of ale* It wont make it any easier to deal with,but at least it makes things more amusing.

[Innocentz]

Thanks for all the tips guys!

 

As for my army, off the top of my head:

 

Anti-Boyfriend Army (Tau)

 

HQ

• Rune Priest - Runic Armour
  
• Wolf Priest - Runic Armour - Jump Pack
  

TROOPS

• Grey Hunters (10) - Power Weapon - Motw - Flamer (2) - Drop Pod
  
• Grey Hunters (10) - Power Weapon - Motw - Plasma (2)
  

ELITE

• Dreadnought - Assault Cannon - Heavy Flamer - Extra Armour - Drop Pod
  
• Scouts (5) - Heavy bolter - Sniper rifles
  

FAST ATTACK

• Sky Claws (5) - Motw - Flamer
  

HEAVY SUPPORT

• Long Fangs (6) - Missile Launchers (3) - Heavy Bolters (2)
  
• Whirlywind
  

 

Anti-Schwarzenegger Army (Necron)

 

The same as above but Vindicator instead of Whirly, All Missile Launchers in Long Fangs, Plasma instead of Flamers and Dreadnought is Dual Autocannon and no drop pod.

 

Anti-Starship Troopers ('Nids)

 

Every marine has a flamer strapped to each arm and one on his arse just in case, dreadnoughts are set on fire and sent running into the 'Nid lines throwing barrels of fire whilst shooting fire and eating a Domino's Meltdown pizza.

[sazzer]

Anti-Starship Troopers ('Nids)

 

Every marine has a flamer strapped to each arm and one on his arse just in case, dreadnoughts are set on fire and sent running into the 'Nid lines throwing barrels of fire whilst shooting fire and eating a Domino's Meltdown pizza.

 

As tactics go, that one I like... :to:

 

You will want some heavy hitting stuff though for the big bugs - the new regen bugs need to suffer 6 wounds in one turn to safely kill - the Trygon (I think) in specific is T6 W6 Regen - No instakill, Bolters (and flamers) wound on a 6+, and if you don't kill him this turn then in his next turn every suffered wound comes back on a 6+... Flamers just don't cut it there...

[DV8]

The only problem with white primer is that you need to spend extra effort to go back and redefine all the various areas. Stuff like joints, where armor plates meet, etc. If you miss any spot at all with white primer, it instantly shows. At least with black primer you can "fudge" a lot of areas (particularily where your brush can't get to) and still get away with it since the black will hide it. And as you would be mixing Adeptus Battlegrey with Codex Grey, it wouldn't take more than 2 or 3 coats to get a nice clean basecoat (Foundation Paints coat extremely well, and I'm taking into consideration dilution of paints as well). While that kind of work for a white primer is acceptable for a display or competition piece, I would not want to do THAT much effort on an entire army of 30 or 40+ models.

 

You can also be a bit of a cheat and airbrush your basecoats, in which case how many "coats" it takes is never an issue, but that's not an investment or an option everybody has access to.

 

@Innocentz

 

A nice starting list, although I would recommend trying to find points somewhere to squeeze a Power Fist into some of those packs. Nothing makes you sadder than being stuck in close combat with a Dreadnought or a Monstrous Creature that you simply can't hurt reliably (relying on a rending 6 from MotW isn't the most reliable way to do it).

 

Also, as a personal preference, I can't stand tooling my list(s) to specific opponents. I build my lists as all comers and expect to come up against anything. That being said you're (relatively) new, so I can forgive you as you're still coming to grips with the army and the game, and still need time to figure out what works for you and what doesn't.

 

Now I CAN recommend a few things:

 

First replace the Assault Cannon on the Dreadnought with a Multi-Melta. Yes you get less shots with it (and we all like making pewpew noises...), but being able to drop right in first turn with the Drop Pod and kill a tank straight off the bat is a HUGE advantage, and one that should not be overlooked.

 

Likewise, I see what you're doing with the 10 Grey Hunters + 2 Flamers in the Drop Pod. Pod in and start roasting away. Much like the Dreadnought, I would recommend 2 Meltaguns, as you can use them as another "Alpha Strike" to pod in right beside an enemy vehicle and destroy it outright.

 

In that regard, you will find even numbers of Drop Pods to be the most inefficient. Because of the Drop Pod Assault special rule, half (rounding up) your Drop Pods must arrive first turn, and the remainder are rolled for as normal per Reserves. With an even number of pods, you will only ever get 50% of your pods in first turn, so 1 out of 2, 2 out of 4, 3 out of 6, etc.

 

However, with an odd number you actually get more than 50% of your pods coming in first turn, and can be a good way to squeeze a little more into your Alpha wave:

 

1 out of 1 pods is 100%

2 out of 3 pods is 66.6%

3 out of 5 pods is 60%

4 out of 7 pods is 57%

 

With 8 Drop Pods or more, you'll find it evens out to at or around 55% (5 out of 9, 6 out of 11, 7 out of 13, etc.), and the optimal number of pods you want in your army is either 1, 3 or 5.

 

So with all that said and done, I would recommend taking another Drop Pod (even if you drop it empty) to guarantee that your Dreadnought and Grey Hunters arrive first turn. The alternative too is you can deploy your Dreadnought and the empty Drop Pod first turn, and save your Grey Hunters for say an objective.

 

Wolf Scouts are better Outflanking with their special rule "Operate Behind Enemy Lines" (or OBEL). Keeping them cheap with a Meltagun allows them to pop up behind the enemy army and start taking out vehicles or fire support squads. Your build is good, but I think it's a bit of a waste of the unique ability of our Scouts.

 

EDIT:

 

And as alluded to above, the big Tyranid bugs are hard to kill. So take Jaws of the World Wolf on the Rune Priest, and force Initiative tests. No regeneration allowed here, since they are simply removed from play if they fail.

 

Swarm Lord - Initiative 6

Hive Tyrant - Initiative 5/6

Tervigon - Initiative 1

Carnifex - Initiative 1

Trygon - Initiative 4

Mawloc - Initiative 4

Tyrannofex - Initiative 1

 

 

DV8

[Grey Mage]

Id throw down, particularly against tau, youll probly get more mileage out of CC scouts than sniper scouts... PWs and Meltaguns.... walk in off his table edge and assault something. Not bad for nid killin either.

[Bulweih]

Listen but close, what the wise Grey Mage has to say, mainly because, as near to always, he's right.

Although I'm a fan of my own Heavy Bolter/Sniperscouts, the better fit would be the ones described by brother Grey Mage.

The Snipers are best used in special scenarios.

[Beef]

So many fast replies to this thread. I thought they were giving away free ale Or something. :blush:

So now we know there is something more potent than free ale for getting SW players attention

 

Personnaly I prefer a black undercoat, its easier to work with for less experienced painters like myself.

[Innocentz]

@Innocentz

Lot's of helpful stuff =)

Wolf Scouts are better Outflanking with their special rule "Operate Behind Enemy Lines" (or OBEL). Keeping them cheap with a Meltagun allows them to pop up behind the enemy army and start taking out vehicles or fire support squads. Your build is good, but I think it's a bit of a waste of the unique ability of our Scouts.

I understand OBEL but with regards to normal outflanking please look at the following:

When outflanking with normal troops, and they come on the side edge, do they come on anywhere up to the purple line? or anywhere on the green?

Stupid Q I know but please indulge me :)

Id throw down, particularly against tau, youll probly get more mileage out of CC scouts than sniper scouts... PWs and Meltaguns.... walk in off his table edge and assault something. Not bad for nid killin either.

I would try this but atm my boyfriend only has a Devilfish he sometimes count's as a Hammerhead and my Longfangs usually take care of it, my biggest concern is usually his Sniper Teams :(

Listen but close, what the wise Grey Mage has to say, mainly because, as near to always, he's right.

Although I'm a fan of my own Heavy Bolter/Sniperscouts, the better fit would be the ones described by brother Grey Mage.

The Snipers are best used in special scenarios.

Ok ok ok I'll try it tomorrow! :sweat:

[molsonbeagle]

Typical outflanking will happen on the whole side board edge, so you're looking at the green. OBEL will allow you to outflank green edges on a 1-2 and anywhere youw ant, to include red edge with 3-6. ** i believe thats the dice rolls...don't ahve my codex on me**

[DV8]

@Innocentz

Lot's of helpful stuff =)

Wolf Scouts are better Outflanking with their special rule "Operate Behind Enemy Lines" (or OBEL). Keeping them cheap with a Meltagun allows them to pop up behind the enemy army and start taking out vehicles or fire support squads. Your build is good, but I think it's a bit of a waste of the unique ability of our Scouts.

I understand OBEL but with regards to normal outflanking please look at the following:

When outflanking with normal troops, and they come on the side edge, do they come on anywhere up to the purple line? or anywhere on the green?

Stupid Q I know but please indulge me :sweat:

No such thing as a stupid question.

Regular Outflankers come in anywhere on either green line, but they have to roll for it. For example, lets say you had a unit of regular Outflankers. You first have to roll for Reserves, and when they come on, you roll again to determine which board edge they come in on. On a 1 or 2, they come in from the green line on your left, 3 or 4 they come in from the green line on your right, 5 or 6 you can choose either of the green lines. Regular Outflankers cannot come in from either the red or the blue lines.

What makes Wolf Scouts so particularly devastating is that their Outflanking rule is made of super-win. On a 1, you come in from the green line to the left, on a 2 you come in from the green line on the right, on a 3, 4, 5 or 6, you can choose any line (green, blue or red) to come in from.

Again OBELing Wolf Scouts with close combat weapons is an easy way to deal with Pathfinders or Sniper Teams hiding in the back (since their weapons are "Heavy", they will usually pick a perch to shoot from and stay there all game.)

DV8