Cessna's Yukky Death Guard

[Cessna]

Here's a work-in-progress look at my Death Guard. Instead of the usual pus-and-tentacles most Nurgle armies get, I wanted them to look rusted and old. I've made a lot of conversions with WHFB parts.

 

One of the four squads. They all look like this.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/cessna182/DGSquad01.jpg

 

Their Defiler. I wanted a "thing that came from the scrap heap" look.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/cessna182/Defiler01.jpg

 

Four squads plus the Defiler.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/cessna182/DGArmy01.jpg

 

Next will be three Rhinos (painted like the Defiler) and a winged Daemon Prince.

[Bloodmange]

VERY well done!!!!! Can't wait to see what you do with a daemon prince

[rhunicus]

Very cool! I am actually going for a very similar effect with my army also. I was also going to use some fantasy parts but was wondering how theyd look...and they look pretty damn sweet...

 

Would you mind telling me what paints/techniques you used?

Edited June 17, 2010 by rhunicus

[aeroplane]

Wow! They look great!

 

What is your technique for rust??

[Cessna]

Would you mind telling me what paints/techniques you used?

 

Sure, but I can't be responsible for figures that are ruined by it. This is a VERY difficult technique. I'm not saying that to trumpet my skill, but to point out that it has huge potential for wrecked paint-jobs and ruined models...

 

1. Base-coat with black. I use Krylon spray-paint.

 

2. Air-brush with Tamiya "Field Gray."

 

3. Wash with straight GW Thraka Green ink. Slop it on.

 

4. Dry-brush with a 1" art-brush with a 1:1 mix of Vallejo 830 "German Field Gray" and Vallejo 819 "Iraqi Sand."

 

5. Paint any areas that will be exposed metal flat black.

 

6. Drybrush exposed metal Boltgun Metal.

 

Now, here's the scary part.

 

7. Prepare a mix of diluted Acetone. I use a 1:25 ratio of Acetone to water.

 

Yes, Acetone. This stuff will ruin your paint work. (It will also dissolve super-glue.) But that's exactly what I want. If it is sufficiently diluted it won't strip the paint off, rather, it will make it fade, discolor, crack, and streak. That's how to get the "old paint" effect.

 

Paint it on your models and pray. Don't come crying to me if this screws up your paint job. I warned you.

 

8. After they're totally dry - give 'em a few days just to be absolutely certain - spray-coat them with a clear sealant.

 

9. Next, add the rust. I use a "rust" weathering powder bonded with a diluted non-aerosol hair spray. Use a very dilute solution - 10:1 water to spray - and slather on the rust. Once this is dry, brush it off of the raised areas with an art brush.

 

You can probably achieve similar results with a "Rust-all" solution from a model train shop. I haven't tried it, as I already have a big bottle of the "rust" weathering powder.

 

10. Clear coat them again, then go back and paint the detail work.

 

Now - I can't really recommend that you do this. I have screwed up many a test-figure with this process. It will ruin models with ease.

 

But if you can get the technique down, you can paint yukky-looking Death Guard fast, and achieve very cool results.

Edited June 17, 2010 by Cessna

[DeathGaurdWithBolter]

I think I Just Barfed (in a good way) those marines are very very cool nice work

[rhunicus]

...

 

Now, here's the scary part.

 

7. Prepare a mix of diluted Acetone. I use a 1:25 ratio of Acetone to water.

 

Yes, Acetone. This stuff will ruin your paint work. (It will also dissolve super-glue.) But that's exactly what I want. If it is sufficiently diluted it won't strip the paint off, rather, it will make it fade, discolor, crack, and streak. That's how to get the "old paint" effect.

 

Paint it on your models and pray. Don't come crying to me if this screws up your paint job. I warned you.

 

8. After they're totally dry - give 'em a few days just to be absolutely certain - spray-coat them with a clear sealant.

 

9. Next, add the rust. I use a "rust" weathering powder bonded with a diluted non-aerosol hair spray. Use a very dilute solution - 10:1 water to spray - and slather on the rust. Once this is dry, brush it off of the raised areas with an art brush.

 

You can probably achieve similar results with a "Rust-all" solution from a model train shop. I haven't tried it, as I already have a big bottle of the "rust" weathering powder.

 

10. Clear coat them again, then go back and paint the detail work.

 

Now - I can't really recommend that you do this. I have screwed up many a test-figure with this process. It will ruin models with ease.

 

But if you can get the technique down, you can paint yukky-looking Death Guard fast, and achieve very cool results.

 

Well damn! I may have to try this, as I have a bunch of old metal and plastic guys from when i used to play in the 90s...should be interesting. Thanks! Ive never actually heard of these vallejo paints either, going to have to look into that also...I am assuming they are better than the GW paints? Ive become a fan of some reaper paints I got, loving the eyedrop bottle...when the paint actually comes out of it anyways..

Edited June 21, 2010 by rhunicus

[Giga]

Very nice. I like how you used fantasy chaos warrior heads for some of those plague marines. :lol:

[Mr.Esty]

Well done. I like the decrepit look of the defiler. Nice Death Guard, Papa would be proud.

[Cessna]

Just finished the Daemon Prince.

 

The wings are conversions - from a WHFB Dragon - pinned in and bonded with a ton of green stuff and epoxy. I also did some work on the sword - the original model has hooks and chains dangling from it that look really stiff and poorly made. I also flattened the end to look like the flat, squared off swords the troops are carrying. There's a bit of conversion on the face; the saggy chin was reduced a bit, and I'm toying with the idea of adding a mask from the Defiler kit.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/cessna182/DP_Front01.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/cessna182/DP_Back02.jpg

[Cessna]

Another photo - the Daemon and the Defiler square off; this gives a nice sense of scale. It also shows off the fact that every joint in the Defiler is movable and magnetized.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/cessna182/DP_Def_01.jpg

 

I'll be out of town for a few weeks, but when I get back I'll tackle the Rhinos and some Plaguebearers.