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Drop it like it's hot


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Hi all,

while waiting for another model to arrive by mail, I figuered I'd do something quick and simple in the meantime....

 

Boy did I misjudge the amount of work that goes into building and painting a drop pod!

 

I did finish it and want to share the results with you. Enjoy, and as always C&C is more than welcome.

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af151/fiddler6291/DAs%20a%20start/fortress%20of%20redemption/P6141709_klein.jpg

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af151/fiddler6291/DAs%20a%20start/fortress%20of%20redemption/P6141711_klein.jpg

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af151/fiddler6291/DAs%20a%20start/fortress%20of%20redemption/P6141713_klein.jpg

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af151/fiddler6291/DAs%20a%20start/fortress%20of%20redemption/P6141712_klein.jpg

 

Cheers,

Perfectionist

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Nice job on the green. I like the highlights, very crisp and good colour choice.

The silver on the fins looks rather streaky, which I'm betting is due to the wash you have used. You need to be careful when applying a wash to a large, flat area like that, as it can end up blotchy and streaky (trust me, I did it to my Vindicator - fortunately a quick overbrush sorted it). I'd suggest either a heavy drybrush/light overbrush of the metal colour on the main flat section, or try using a larger brush and thinner (watered down) wash.

Try that and your drop pod will look much better!

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Nice job on the green. I like the highlights, very crisp and good colour choice.

The silver on the fins looks rather streaky, which I'm betting is due to the wash you have used. You need to be careful when applying a wash to a large, flat area like that, as it can end up blotchy and streaky (trust me, I did it to my Vindicator - fortunately a quick overbrush sorted it). I'd suggest either a heavy drybrush/light overbrush of the metal colour on the main flat section, or try using a larger brush and thinner (watered down) wash.

Try that and your drop pod will look much better!

[/quote

I disagree, I think the silver looks like it has just plunged through the atmosphere, been super heated and is now cooling. Reminded me of my exhaust system on my zx6r...I can here that pod pinging from here :P

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Ugh... I remember how long it took me to do my drop pod. Never again. This looks really good, though the effect you seem to have tried with the silver is not my favorite it is still an admirable piece... of immoble vehicle.... that will never do anything...
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Nice job on the green. I like the highlights, very crisp and good colour choice.

The silver on the fins looks rather streaky, which I'm betting is due to the wash you have used. You need to be careful when applying a wash to a large, flat area like that, as it can end up blotchy and streaky (trust me, I did it to my Vindicator - fortunately a quick overbrush sorted it). I'd suggest either a heavy drybrush/light overbrush of the metal colour on the main flat section, or try using a larger brush and thinner (watered down) wash.

Try that and your drop pod will look much better!

 

 

Thanks for all the comments, they are appreciated.

 

The effect I was going for was dirty, scorched metal. but I agree if was meant to look like a "factory new" model your suggestions would certainly help!

 

Cheers,

perfectionist

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I agree, building and painting drop pods is a pain in the a$%. I got 2 of them at once thinking I could knock them out quickly. By the time I got done painting the second one I had to take a 3 month break from painting I was so burned out.
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Lovely. I've yet to complete my first drop pod due to the insane amount of work its construction implies (yet I've somehow finished my Land Raider :S) and if you don't mind I'll definitely be using your work as a reference.

 

Excellent detailing.

 

Od.

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The drop pod is a deceptively complex kit, on a par with an internally-detailed Land Raider in my opinion. So first, well done for finishing it!

If you don't mind my saying the drybrushing on the grey is as rough as a badger's arse, and its the main letdown. I'd consider giving that a gentle sand with some 1200 grit paper to get rid of the brush strokes and redoing it after practicing the drybrushing - the key is little paint, little pressure against the model. You can get an airbrush-a-like effect by using the brush in a circular motion which is great for highlighting large panels. Always test your brush on something off the model - the backs of my hands are covered in paint from this.

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The drop pod is a deceptively complex kit, on a par with an internally-detailed Land Raider in my opinion. So first, well done for finishing it!

If you don't mind my saying the drybrushing on the grey is as rough as a badger's arse, and its the main letdown. I'd consider giving that a gentle sand with some 1200 grit paper to get rid of the brush strokes and redoing it after practicing the drybrushing - the key is little paint, little pressure against the model. You can get an airbrush-a-like effect by using the brush in a circular motion which is great for highlighting large panels. Always test your brush on something off the model - the backs of my hands are covered in paint from this.

 

I don't mind you saying it at all, however, the effect on the silver is not drybrushing.

It's actually a pretty think layer of wash, I wanted to get a really dirty and worn look on the panels, like the metal was heated and cooled several times over.

To archieve this I painted them boltgun metal, highlighted all edges with chainmail/mithril silver and then washed the whole thing quite heavily.

 

Cheers,

Perfectionist

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Hmm. Washes on large areas usually come out blotchy - they rely on the capilliary action of the detail they're being drawn into overcoming the surface tension that makes them want to 'bead'. This beading causes the tide marks that look off on large areas. You can avoid it when washing a large area by ensuring the wash is spread evenly before it dries - a large 1" very soft brush to wet the area first works. As soon as the wash starts to dry, more and more of it will pool around the very thin layer of dried on pigment - the effect gets worse the more wash there is. Personally though, for 'scorched metal' I think oils are the way to go, really very easy to control as opposed to an acrylic wash, as if you gloss the area (thinly brush on some Future / Klear) first and allow that to dry, you can use some (a tiny amount) of the oil solvent on a brush or q-tip to remove / move the oil paint without affecting the acrylic layer underneath. This lets you get some wicked streaking and staining effects, and clean up anything that's not looking right, without risking your underlying paintwork.
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