Custom Decals

[Flak]

So, I'm trying to make some decals for my Revilers and I tried using a Testors decal kit I bought a couple years back.

 

Long story short, it prints fine but the decal bonder you have to use bleeds the ink out and makes a mess. I let the printer ink sit for 30 minutes, sprayed and left the page on a flat, level surface so the bonder couldn't run. I even went to my local hobby shop and bought new paper since I figured the old stuff might have been exposed to air and dried out or something. Nothing seems to work, even the lightest coat of the bonder bleeds the ink everywhere. I'm getting frustrated trying to get this thing to work.

 

So does anyone have any experience using the Lazertran paper (used to be JetCal) which is supposedly coated to not need a gloss coat? It appears on the surface to be completely superior to every other decal paper, so I'm assuming it's really thick or has some other drawback they don't mention.

[Kotobuki]

The first time I printed my own decals I used Expert's Choice decal paper from Bare-Metal Foil co, with Testor's decal bonder, with an inkjet printer. It worked perfectly. When sealing the decals, you need to use a few coats of the bonder, sprayed on as a light mist from a considerable distance. I recently tried printing some decals on Microscale Industries' TrimFilm product with a laserjet printer, forgot to do a super light coat with the bonder, and ruined the sheet. I printed a second, and will try again with the bonder in the manner I used on my initial run of decals.

[Flak]

I actually got tired of screwing around with the Testor's spray and got some Kyrlon Crystal Clear since I saw it recommended in several places. Worked perfectly the first time.

 

However, the coating and ink are wearing off if I try to use a decal setting solution (ie vinegar), so now I'm curious if ordering some MicroSol is worth it or if it's just going to eat the entire decal up.

[GumbaFish]

I use krylon crystal clear as well, and also use micro sol and micro set for applying the decals. I have had good luck so far using this method, but most of my decals have very little to no ink on them as use I white decals and the lines are there just as a guide for me to trim and paint around once on the mini.

[Jarakin]

Sorry for the threadnomancy, but I'm really interested in this product, found 8 sheets of A4 on ebay for £11 and want to use it for my Flesh Tearer's chapter symbol. I have never applied a decal in my life however and have no idea how this would work. As the lazertran stuff is already covered, does that mean you just need to apply it to the model with water? Anyone have any experience with this stuff at all?

 

Thanks!

 

-J

[Vaaish]

I've used lazertrans before but it was several years ago and for a product mockup. The decal material at the time was far too thick for use on small scale miniatures; I remember it left a visible and tactile edge because it was so thick.

[striker8]

I've used the Jetcal paper quite a few time along with the Testors. I've also used both KRylon and the testors as a top coat.

 

A few tips no matter what paper you use.

 

All blank paper will turn out thicker than a comercially done decal that's just the way it is due to the way they simplified process needed for a consumer grade product, to relieve the disecrnable edge be sure to gloss before and after the decal is applied, and use a decal solvent after aplication on the model. The solvent will feather the edge a bit while it does it's comforming duty and the gloss will improve adhesion and in the end it smooths the edge further.

 

Let the paper dry at least 12 to 24 hours after printing, preferably in a dust free place.

 

When spraying the top coat on a sheet, use multiple light coats to fix the images to the paper. My first 2 atempts the ink bled horribly the first was with the Testors top coat and the second was with Krylon and I learned after that.