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Stripping without damage


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a couple weeks ago i began work on my venerable rhino (http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.php?showtopic=205499)

 

during the initial basecoat i discovered that I'd bought a bad spray can (figures i use the same brand for years and the first time i get a bad one is on my golden demon entry!) and after a preliminary paint i dont believe i can work around it.

 

So now i need something to strip paint without destroying the (softer?) plasticard, or the superglue holding it all together. My understanding is that my ususal standby, simple green, will destroy glue bonds.

 

If i'm screwed, so be it, I'll make it work somehow. but i'd really hate to have to redo the side of that rhino and lose a day or so of work.

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Window cleaner, degreaser (oven cleaner) will work im pretty sure. I fill a small container up until the model is completely covered and then i put an air filter in there, from a fish tank. This creates lots of tiny bubbles (do it in the sink, the bubbles will go everywhere) then finish it with a soft toothbrush. Ive only done it on figures (plastic and metal) but it should work for vehicles too.

 

Whatever you choose to go with, be sure to test it. Glue a some offcuts together and soak them overnight and see how it goes. Good luck!

 

 

Replica

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...=199607&hl=

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...=199029&hl=

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...=198143&hl=

 

etc etc.

 

bottom line, if you -don't- want to kill the glue, avoid the harsher chemicals. If it is plastic glue, simple green won't affect the bond (the two pieces actually melt together) but superglue may have a problem with the green stuff (but so does putting the fig in the freezer).

 

go green. I've had various edition plastic tanks and figs in simple green for weeks (or months) at a time... doesn't hurt the figs. Doesn't get all the paint off either, but that is another thread.

well firstly thank you for all the advice, i am genuinely grateful for it.

 

now allow me to share a discovery of my own, "Green works" is not the same as simple green, i think green works is the target generic version. it is much stronger, and WILL eat the plastic. luckily i spot tested it first and all i lost were a couple rivets, so now theres going to be a purity seal where none was originally intended.

 

as for the excess paint around the head, i found a much more direct way to deal wit the problem, i ground off the heads. I'm now in the process of using some fantasy heads to make some much better looking faces, with milliput hoods.

 

so again thank you for the info even though i took the sledgehammer approach!

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