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Clear coat help


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I have some really nice painted minis that I tried to use GW matt varnish on and they came out like I put white powder on my models. Lucky it was a scout squad I had just done armypainter quickshade dip on. What did I do wrong or is there a better matte clear coat I can use out there.

 

I used it on one model to try it out and those it was because it was too hot or not shaken enough. So I shook the crap out of it and did it inside where it is cool. STILL it did the same thing. Yes I used GW purity seal.

 

 

Any help would be great.

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I used Purity Seal once. Two minis came out fine, one came out looking like I painted it white. They were all done in the same conditions, one after another (and the bad one was the one in the middle, so it wasn't like the can was getting too cold or something). Never again.

 

I've heard Testor's Dullcote is good, but after ruining one of my hard-painted minis like that, I'm very paranoid about using matte varnish again.

I have had a similiar experience after applying matte Varnish. I normally apply a gloss clearcoat to form a shell then apply the matte and they came out looking powderey. However, I reapplied the gloss then recoated with Matte( I use light coats) and it cleared it up no problem. This is not something that happens all the time, in my experience at least.

 

Also I am using Krylon Gloss and Matte coat so your results could vary based on the product. I have now sealed an entire Dark Angels Force, 3 Warmachine Armies, a small Ork Horde, and most recently a Nurgle Daemon Force that turned out very well if I do say so myself.

 

Hopethis helps

 

Gub

Indeed - to all those who dispair when matte coating - you can gloss and then recoat matte and it should come out fine.

 

As for Matte coats - you need to keep shaking after every burst of spray,and don't spray when it is too hot (particles will cure too early) or too wet (moisture will cloud the finish) - best bet is a cool, air-conditioned room I find, but not many of us have air-conditioned garages...:-)

I've wasted way too many of my Imperial Fists battle brothers to the white fuziness that is purity seal, I will never EVER buy that product again (and I work almost exclusivelly with GW products). I recently walked into an arts and crafts store, and got some Talens matt varnish spray for acrylics. I even had minis dripping with the varnish (exploring the limits ;) ) and it all dried up without discoloring the underlying paintjob and gives a nice matt finish.
I've wasted way too many of my Imperial Fists battle brothers to the white fuziness that is purity seal, I will never EVER buy that product again (and I work almost exclusivelly with GW products). I recently walked into an arts and crafts store, and got some Talens matt varnish spray for acrylics. I even had minis dripping with the varnish (exploring the limits :) ) and it all dried up without discoloring the underlying paintjob and gives a nice matt finish.

 

My local GW issues a massive health warning when buying purity seal, whilst the store manager of another store refuses to stock it, as he has had too many customers complain about dodgy results - if only they looked at the internet they could have fixed the dreaded white mist!

 

On a similar note - I have bought some Krystal Clear spray (Satin and Matte finishes) - but haven't had an opportunity to test them yet - any ideas on teh quality?

 

Cheers,

 

Hemal

This may sound like a stupid question but i'm presuming the base of the model (e.g. static grass, sand PVA glued on etc.) is done after the model has had the varnish applied?

It's best to varnish the model after it's finished (obviously) and after the sand was applied and painted. When you apply the static grass before you varnish, there's a chance the varnish pools down between the fibres, ruining your work.

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